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Author Topic: M38A1 -Build  (Read 5413 times)

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #15 on: January 24, 2013, 07:22:26 PM »
Thanks-

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2013, 08:32:25 PM »
Had some free time to catch up on my posts-
I got the Jeep to my friend's shop in NH.  Got it running and it knocked and smoked pretty bad.  Perfect for me because I am a purist and if it had run great I would have kept the original 72 hp 4cyl.  Now I have a reason to use the V6 from the '71 Renegade II I bought in the hopes of restoring.  I attached some pictures below- it was long gone but had tons of good parts I could use on my other '71 Renegade II that Chuck had been nice enough to find in a barn and sell to me.

I got a tera low spicer model 18 from Rich and I thought I would be good to go.  V6 with a 3-speed t14 and a tera low spicer 18.  This is when I ran into the first problem.  The t-14 is the only Jeep transmission with a 10 spline output shaft most (at least of this era) have a 6 spline.  My tera low was set up with a 6 spline bull gear...I thought about just running the original drive train from the renegade but I hate wasting money and I had it stuck in my head I wanted a lower low range. 

After a bunch of research on EarlyCJ5 (awesome site for anyone into the early stuff 75 and newer) I decided on a ford t-18.  It seemed to be a fairly easy and straight forward swap to my V6 and it was 6 spline.  I found one at my buddies shop that he had just taken in on trade.  It was rebuilt and bolted to a model 20 transfer case. 

Good news for me.  I traded it for a few bucks and the engine transmission and transfer case from the M38A1.  He will rebuild it and use it in his M170...my purest side is satisfied.  M170s are cool and way more rare than an M38A1.

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #17 on: January 30, 2013, 09:43:26 PM »
The t-18 I bought from my friend was a Ford unit with an adapter plate  to mount it to the model 20 transfer case.  The model 20 didn't work in my application because it is a centered output.  I need an offset output to keep the stock axles or the 30 spline offset Dana 44 that I will eventually upgrade to. I already had the tera low Spicer 18 which shares the same bolt pattern and bore size as the 20.  It was a simple swap.
I spent a few weeks researching t-18s. I knew it could be done but I wanted to do it as cheap and easy as possible.
A few companies offered ways to adapt the ford t-18 to a Buick V6

Advanced adapters has an aluminum bell housing that is a perfect replacement...$300 and they didn't have any on the shelf.

Novak has a replacement bearing retainer that simply bolts onto the Ford transmission and is machined to fit into the Buick Bell housing. $54  Novak also has a great website with tons of information on the swap.  I didn't go with Novak because the guy who answered the phone at the time I called didn't seem confident that it would work.

A guy on  EarlyCJ5 recommended a company called R and P 4wd www.rp4wd.com .  They have been adapting T-18s for 20 years.  They have a similar machined bearing retainer that Novak offers.  I went with R and P because the guy that answered the phone was the owner and he told me that I could call him at any point in time if I had any questions.  I liked that.  I picked up the bearing retainer, bolts, seal shipped from Oregon for under $100.

Sometime in 1970 Jeep switched from a 2 piece bell housing on the V6 engine to a 1 piece.  The 2 piece design was a GM Bell housing with an adapter to the t-14.  This swap only works with a GM bell housing- so I just removed the Jeep adapter from a 2 piece bell housing.


Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #18 on: January 30, 2013, 10:20:43 PM »
I'm almost caught up to real time.
We pulled the tub to make it easier to set up the drive train and do the floor rust repair.
Welded in V6 mounts- Ran new brake lines- Bled the brakes- Installed the BDS 2.5 lift- Got the engine in and modified the original transmission cross member to work. 

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2013, 05:59:01 PM »
A little floor work/rust repair.  The M38A1 has a deep sump gas tank that forms a well below the body line.  I decided that it would be better to have a flat front floor without a tank hanging below the body and it was about $700 cheaper to do it this way.  Classic enterprises parts- perfect fit and high quality.  I will use an early under seat gas tank for a similar look.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 06:02:11 PM by Freefree »

Offline rich

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2013, 06:02:05 PM »
Looks great cant wait to see it on the trail
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Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2013, 06:03:07 PM »
Thanks Rich-Me too.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 06:11:12 PM by Freefree »

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2013, 06:08:21 PM »
A little more- this was the hole in the passenger side.  I have some grinding to do- or maybe not.

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2013, 06:21:16 PM »
Last one for now- basically caught up on real life.  With lots of help- fabbed up a y-pipe and exhaust.  Also addressed the transfer case linkage.  Next week we have to commit the body with some poly bushings and see how it goes.



Offline Posimoto

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #24 on: March 30, 2013, 08:52:28 AM »
Frame looks to be in good shape.

I see you routed the clutch cable correctly, I canít tell how many times Iíve seen it routed under the frame instead of through the frame.

Was there a reason why you routed the exhaust to the right and under the front driveshaft? Typically there is plenty of room to the left of the shaft.

Good progress!
"That's the trouble with research on the internet, there's no way of verifying its truth" --Abraham Lincoln

71 CJ5 V6/T14/D18/Warn OD (from CO)
79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ7 258 Fuel Injected T-18/D-20 (from CO)

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #25 on: March 30, 2013, 10:48:50 AM »
Thanks Chuck- We modeled the exhaust off of a factory 71 v6 exhaust I wanted to sneak the pipe between the bellhousing and the driveshaft- but it was very tight.  It hangs a bit low and it may need to be changed.  Any ideas on a better way?  Maybe a dual exhaust?

It is nice to have a v6 Jeep to look at during the build.

Offline Posimoto

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #26 on: March 30, 2013, 12:22:16 PM »
If you feel there isnít enough room between the DS and bell run it straight back and dump it after the t-case.

Look at the frame pic (second to last pic) where the right exhaust pipe goes down, you could run that pipe inside the passenger side frame rail (there should be enough room to get past the t-case) then dump it into the left pipe before the muffler. Just a thought.
"That's the trouble with research on the internet, there's no way of verifying its truth" --Abraham Lincoln

71 CJ5 V6/T14/D18/Warn OD (from CO)
79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ7 258 Fuel Injected T-18/D-20 (from CO)

Offline rich

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #27 on: March 30, 2013, 01:44:49 PM »
Zoomie headers  ;D
86cj7
83cj7
Leaf sprung people matter


46cj2a

Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #28 on: April 01, 2013, 09:29:40 PM »
If you feel there isnít enough room between the DS and bell run it straight back and dump it after the t-case.

Look at the frame pic (second to last pic) where the right exhaust pipe goes down, you could run that pipe inside the passenger side frame rail (there should be enough room to get past the t-case) then dump it into the left pipe before the muffler. Just a thought.


I'm heading up to work on it Wednesday- I will take a look.  Thanks for the thoughts-




Offline Freefree

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Re: M38A1 -Build
« Reply #29 on: November 10, 2013, 04:59:25 PM »
Failed attempt at an update.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 05:35:55 PM by Freefree »


 



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