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Offline Twisty

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #45 on: May 04, 2009, 09:53:44 AM »
good call on the 4 link. 
88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro

"Only wealthy men can afford to buy cheap things."

Offline Bradman

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #46 on: May 04, 2009, 11:54:07 AM »
Sick John.  Love the narrowing of the rear frame idea.  Winter project? or maybe even a next year build.

Offline mika401

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #47 on: May 04, 2009, 06:37:53 PM »
That is really sweet John.

Offline jason m

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #48 on: May 04, 2009, 08:22:56 PM »
you will love the rear steer. maybe i missed it but what gears you planning on. are the factory 4.10's or 4.56's. seans buggy is running stock shafts ( inner ) and dana 70 stock outers. he just finished 4th in the RC comp with no rear break age, front weel thats another story

http://s601.photobucket.com/albums/tt94/Ipkyss/Comp%20Buggy/First%20comp%20May/?action=view&current=Alicias614.jpg

http://s601.photobucket.com/albums/tt94/Ipkyss/Comp%20Buggy/First%20comp%20May/?action=view&current=Alicias612.jpg

that was a stock 78 dana 60 shaft with 39's sticky's.

jason.
whats left of a 93YJ, 4.0/700r/241/HP60/coiled14bolt and beating it like it owes me money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pfTVptGdGg

Offline Bradman

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #49 on: May 04, 2009, 08:59:33 PM »
Holy crap.  Never new it could shatter like that one.  Wow :o

Offline jps4jeep

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #50 on: May 05, 2009, 07:14:06 AM »
Gearing... Good question. I am on the fence really.. currently I do not have a need to swap my motor out, so I will probably gear fairly deep. I have a three speed t case so I have a number of gearing options.  I am thinking 5.13. or 5.38. if I do have to swap a motor, I will probably put in a warmed over chevy V6 or a small v8. For a long time I said I wanted a Mercedes Turbo diesel, but what it will offer little to nothing over a small V6 or v8. If I need to gear deeper, I will swap in a sm465 when I put the gm mill in there.

After speaking with Rich, I will probably run D70 outers for the price point and not sure on the inners probably some type of chomoly shaft. and Bobby long joints

One thing about this set up I like, I in theory only have to carry one set of shafts since they are the same front and rear.

I really like my crawl ratio I have now, sometimes I wish it was a little deeper.

I am taking a couple days off from work this week and next week to get some work done, I will update as I go.
Dad always said "If it has boobs or spark plugs it will be fun AND will cause you problems."

Offline jason m

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #51 on: May 05, 2009, 10:05:02 AM »
you keeping the DRW hubs and machening them down or just going to run them like that with H-1's. i have a set of DRW machened down on the shelf, i got them from andy vega. he ran them with 39's stickys for a long time and had no problem runing them on the break flange ears. he didn't weld a plate to them but he did install a 1" ALU spacer and i think that help spread the load on the ears.

i would say as long as your not going over 40's you will be fine. anything over that like 42's i would start thinking about at leasst welding a plate to the ears especially for the rear hubs. might be to much pressure on the rear hub ears when you hit the 42 mark.

jason.
whats left of a 93YJ, 4.0/700r/241/HP60/coiled14bolt and beating it like it owes me money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pfTVptGdGg

Offline jps4jeep

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #52 on: May 05, 2009, 10:51:24 AM »
I am gonna run the DRW hubs and look for a 17x? rim with about 5-6" of back spacing (more if they fit). As for rim width, I really don't care as long as it is between 8-10" I am gonna DIY bead lock them, it is what I run now and I love them.

I might go to a 43" tire eventually when the jeep gets to Juggy condition (those 43" SX are hawt). should I be worried about the DRW hubs and the flange ears if I run them this way?

also when it comes to steering, I am gonna need some serious schooling. I am gonna go full Hydro all around, and it is something I really would love advice on. (or part numbers)

I have never set up a rear steer, in fact the only Hydro steering I worked on was on either large boats of fork lifts. Going to source as many parts from Surplus as possible.

Single end ram on teh rear and thinking a double on the front.. Input?
« Last Edit: May 05, 2009, 10:52:14 AM by jps4jeep »
Dad always said "If it has boobs or spark plugs it will be fun AND will cause you problems."

Offline Twisty

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #53 on: May 05, 2009, 11:07:53 AM »
You can get an electric hydraulic pump from a snowplow for the rear.  Or you can get an orbital valve with 5 ports.

I'm going with single ended in the front.  Cheaper, and easier to setup.  I do not have the want, need, or tools to build a cradle for the double ended ram to sit on.
88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro

"Only wealthy men can afford to buy cheap things."

Offline jason m

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #54 on: May 05, 2009, 11:16:57 AM »
i would stick with the 8" rims, this way after there beadlocked they will be around 9.5''s ( doulbe's will be around 10.5"s ). i would at least weld a flange on the ears of the DRW hubs whne you get to that stage of the build. the pirate bible has a good write up on how its done.

as far as the hydro goes, im no expert but being around it for while and setting up three streeing sytems i will say im finding out that mix matched junkyard parts is not the way to go. im not saying to pull the trigger on a after market kit but at least like you said try to match all the parts buy the amount of flow and displacment needed.

single eneded ( a 1.5" ram with a 1 1/8'' chrome rod ) work's well in gregs buggy for a rear and thats what in the front to. we run a P-pump from a chevy astro van with a large resavor welded to the top of the can. this way its a direct feed from the top and the pump is always submerged with fluid.

strating with a good valve is critiacal. like i was PMing twisty on the valve i was explianing to him that that i have two valve's that wont work with out trype of pumps that we use ( a automobile pump ). they are called a closed center valve, witch means when in use ( steering ) they work and perform like a normall valve would. but when not in use ( not steering ) like at idle theres now way for the fluid to bypass threw the valve. so another words the path of fluid will stop and force the pump into a bypass witch is not good ( very bad ) for a automobile style pump.
in order to tun a closed center valve you need a varible displacment pump, witch basicly means it will allow the fluid to properly bypass threw the pump when the valve is not in use ( idle ). but this style of pump is expensive and not worth it for what we do.

agin i claim to be no expert on this, so if any body see's any corrections please fill int he blank's. but this is what i went threw with toms buggy ( well him and i ) and what im trying to figure out all winter, because i will be needing a proper valve by the end of summer for the rockwell buggy.

agin i will help with whatever you need but im no expert, im learning as i go to.

jason.
whats left of a 93YJ, 4.0/700r/241/HP60/coiled14bolt and beating it like it owes me money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pfTVptGdGg

Offline jason m

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #55 on: May 05, 2009, 11:19:52 AM »
You can get an electric hydraulic pump from a snowplow for the rear.  Or you can get an orbital valve with 5 ports.

I'm going with single ended in the front.  Cheaper, and easier to setup.  I do not have the want, need, or tools to build a cradle for the double ended ram to sit on.


true with the 5th port, but like the two valve's i have witch one has the 5th port alot of them will be closed center. so i cant say if they make a open center valve with a 5th port, ( i really dont know ). but from what ive seen is alot of them will be clsoed center.

jason.
whats left of a 93YJ, 4.0/700r/241/HP60/coiled14bolt and beating it like it owes me money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pfTVptGdGg

Offline Switch

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #56 on: May 05, 2009, 12:43:52 PM »
you keeping the DRW hubs and machening them down or just going to run them like that with H-1's. i have a set of DRW machened down on the shelf, i got them from andy vega. he ran them with 39's stickys for a long time and had no problem runing them on the break flange ears. he didn't weld a plate to them but he did install a 1" ALU spacer and i think that help spread the load on the ears.

i would say as long as your not going over 40's you will be fine. anything over that like 42's i would start thinking about at leasst welding a plate to the ears especially for the rear hubs. might be to much pressure on the rear hub ears when you hit the 42 mark.

jason.

Jason, give me a ring or PM me if you want to sell just the 1" spacers, I might be interested
/l ,[____],           
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Offline jps4jeep

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #57 on: May 06, 2009, 10:21:30 AM »
In my searching, I have found this to be very informative.

http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/rockcrawlrearsteer.pdf

Still need to sit down with a catalog and figure out what bore and stroke I will need.

If I am doing both front and rear steer, with the orbital valve that tim has work better for me or will I also need a smaller unit?
Dad always said "If it has boobs or spark plugs it will be fun AND will cause you problems."

Offline jason m

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #58 on: May 06, 2009, 12:50:40 PM »
you will still need a smaller valve, the orbital does not trun the rear tire's. the way you pumb for rear steer is, pump>rear steer valve ( log splitter valve )>then orbital valve. now if you were going to run a hydro boost brake sytem then it would go pump>hydro boost>rear steer valve ( log splitter )> then into the orbital valve.

this is the way we ran gregs and works really well, i got the info off of pirate. ive seen that howe site and its very imformative to. eletrics pumps are nice but still ( in my opion ) need a cooler for the fluid or a huge resavor to disapate the heat. a seperate pump driven off the motor is also an option. this may be the way i might go, i will run two P-style pumps ( one for the front and one for the rear ) but use one cooler and one tank. run two feeds for each seprate pumps off the tank, this way i have two seperate pumps but only one cooler and tank.

jason.
whats left of a 93YJ, 4.0/700r/241/HP60/coiled14bolt and beating it like it owes me money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pfTVptGdGg

Offline jps4jeep

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Re: My Pointless Project Thread.
« Reply #59 on: May 11, 2009, 07:49:35 PM »
First thing on todays agenda, get some measurements. so I marked the center points of both seats, and then the shoulder location on the drivers seat. Yes I am short.


Seats and seat belts are out


stripped her down to bare minimum



Took some modding and grinding and bending and drilling, but I got the factory sliders to not only fit, but work on the suspension seats. For now I am using 2.52.5x3/16 aluminum angle as a seat base. It is what I had. I will probably be clearencing these a lot to get the seats with the same seat heght and rake as the originals, but this was just the first one. I evetually got all 4 mounted. I will be welding full circumfrance tabs to the cage to hold the seat to it. after throwing some tube at the jeep, I might flip the angle and g a bit wide to get a lower pofile.


This was my first and fail method to mocking up the new seats for general measurement. I did not photo the second, and successful method, but what I did was put some 2x4's across the top of the cage and suspend the front with one strap and 2 on the rear, made it way easier to center the seat and fine tune the heights.


No need to comment on the filthy work bench... but here is the JD2 notcher. Thing works the balls, little less than a minute to notch the tube. and this was my first set up, I as getting a lot of vibes so I took the base off, spun the vise 90* and secured it that way. much better.


It was getting late, but here is the begining. I used the mini sledge to "clearence" the tranny tunnel about a 1/2 inch might need to persuade it down another 1/4 or so.


Dad always said "If it has boobs or spark plugs it will be fun AND will cause you problems."


 



Acton Jeep - A Family Owned Dealership.