NewEnglandJeepz.org
May 25, 2012, 01:14:26 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
Custom Search
News:
 
  Home Help Search Gallery Login Register  


Click Here For Custom Graphics!
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 ... 79   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: One Ton Axle Build Thread  (Read 54593 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« on: January 20, 2008, 08:15:41 PM »

It will be a slow build up, but I might as well start now.  1978 14 bolt full floater from a K20 pickup, and a 1979 high pinion D60 from a F250 Snofighter pickup.  14 bolt is 3.73 ratio, and and the D60 is 3.55 ratio.  Both will get 5.13s or 5.38s, and both will be locked in some way or another.  Before these axles are put under the MJ, it will need some reinforcing.  I'm going to plate the uni-frame with some 3x3 angle iron, and tie some rock rails into them.  My hope is to create an exocage that will tie into a front bumper, rear bumper, rock rails and a few other points that I am not yet sure of.  I think that with the MJ's fully boxed rear frame and some support up front that it can handle one tons.

I originaly decided to get the 14 bolt this fall when I had the oppritunity to purchase a pair of D60s from a 1978 F350.  But it turned out that the front was bent, and the whole thing was useless.  So I had a 14 bolt sitting here.  I contemplated selling it until I located a D60 on craigslist. 

When I arrived home with the axle.




Then I took the drivers side appart so I could rebuild the kingpins, and clean up/paint the parts.
Here is the knuckle.


Today was an exciting day because I was able to remove the kinpins!




Those things were in there with 500ft/lbs of torque and were fun to break free.  You can see my little "tool" that I made out of a bolt and a nut that I tried to use to extract the kingpin...but it failed.  I wound up using a pipe wrench with a 6' pipe on the end.  The only part I over looked was getting the stupid NEW kingpin back into the C and torqued correctly.  Oh well.

I will be ordering 2 of these tonight so I can re-assemble the 60 and get it ready for future modifications.
http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?products_id=52


As I progress with this project I will add pictures so anyone who wants to see them, can.  As always, suggestions/comments/constructive criticism are welcome
« Last Edit: January 20, 2008, 08:16:00 PM by Twisty » Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
rich
Official NEJ Member
Trade Count: (0)
*******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1073


« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2008, 08:55:05 PM »

just curious but were the king pins worn out ?
and how are you going to re-torque them to the correct setting ? i thought i rear some where that the torque setting was 600 ft-lbs
Logged

86cj7
79cj5
74 wagoneer
66cj5 134,t90
66cj5 225 dauntless
47 bantam tc3
46cj2a
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2008, 09:01:53 PM »

just curious but were the king pins worn out ?
and how are you going to re-torque them to the correct setting ? i thought i rear some where that the torque setting was 600 ft-lbs

They were pitted a little, and I was bored so I figured I'd switch them out.  I'd rather do it now then have to not go wheeling because they were sloppy.  It was fun though.

As for re-torquing them, it seems that many people on Pirate use large chisels from Home Depot that are made out of hardened 7/8 stock.  Cut off the chisel...and you're left with 7/8 stock!  I'll see about getting that, and using a 3/4" drive with a pipe on the end.  My uncle has lots of tools at work, and he said that he'd keep an eye out for me.  Cool

EDIT: Rich, would you have swapped them out?  Are you planning to do so with your 60?
« Last Edit: January 20, 2008, 09:28:41 PM by Twisty » Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
rich
Official NEJ Member
Trade Count: (0)
*******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1073


« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2008, 09:53:29 PM »

mine seemed nice and tight. i can't belive how much it is costing me to swap over to 1 ton stuff, so if it aint broke im not messing with it. if there was no play in them i would have left them be
Logged

86cj7
79cj5
74 wagoneer
66cj5 134,t90
66cj5 225 dauntless
47 bantam tc3
46cj2a
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2008, 10:02:54 PM »

So Rich got me thinking about my problem of getting the kingpins back in.  I went to the hardware store looking for numerous things that I could use to make a 7/8 hexagonal tool that I could remove reinstall the kingpin with.  I looked at chisels, crow bars, bolts, and solid stock that I could cut down.  Then it hit me!  I had an old D35 shaft sitting in the woodshed, so I got to work.

I started by cutting the axle down to size.  I relocated from this spot after I cut a nice slit in my finger with the cut off wheel Roll Eyes.


I needed the correct size, so I tack welded a 7/8 nut head to the end of the axle to act as a guide that I could cut along.


Started to grind the hexagon.


End result!




You can kind of see, but the kingpin bottoms out on the hex with about .5mm left between the lip of the kinpin and the edge of the shaft.



My only concern is that the hex wont be strong enough to take the torque of reinstallation.  I plan to just use a pipe wrench on the shaft with a large breaker bar on the end.  Perhaps some red loctite will ensure that it will stay put if I dont get it close to required torque (but I'm not too worried about that).

Oh, and the kingpin rebuild kits were ordered last night, and they should be here tomorrow!
« Last Edit: January 22, 2008, 10:03:57 PM by Twisty » Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
Switch
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 1237

Do work.


« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2008, 11:15:18 PM »

hahaha now that is a great use for a dana 35!
Logged

/l ,[____],           
[---L--OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)—o—)_)
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2008, 11:24:36 PM »

And you might have seen how I used the pinion gear from that same D35, on my transfer case shift lever Grin
« Last Edit: January 22, 2008, 11:24:51 PM by Twisty » Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2008, 10:06:06 PM »

Well the kingpin rebuild kits came!  I placed the order Monday night from Doug at www.extremeaxlesales.com.  I saw his vendor thread on Pirate for $50 per kit shipped, and I jumped on it.  The other places I looked wanted $49 per kit and ~$15 for shipping! 





I'm in the process of degreasing the whole axle, and will paint it soon.
Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
Krome
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 4361



« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2008, 11:34:10 PM »

good thing you didnt get a ford axle with balljoints


man i hate ford balljoints on 60s!!
Logged
cj7fan
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 909



« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2008, 08:26:20 AM »

Cool thread Twisty..!  I am glad to see more stuff in the tech section with pictures Shocked  I don't know anything about these huge axles (except everyone wants them and they are HEAVY) so I am interested to learn all I can.

When you finally get these built and installed are you going to keep your stock engine or are you going to need an upgrade?

Keep up the good work and btw, that trick you showed me on the t-case lever for the XJ (pushing it forward) stopped that noise when sitting at idle.....thanks!!!

Kent
Logged

79 J10
MMagnumPI9
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 306


« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2008, 03:09:03 PM »

Well the kingpin rebuild kits came!  I placed the order Monday night from Doug at www.extremeaxlesales.com.  I saw his vendor thread on Pirate for $50 per kit shipped, and I jumped on it.  The other places I looked wanted $49 per kit and ~$15 for shipping! 





I'm in the process of degreasing the whole axle, and will paint it soon.


I have dealt with doug before with good results.
Logged
jps4jeep
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 10426


Average at best


« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2008, 04:04:27 PM »

Good Tech! 



Question

Quote

Why choose a bolt? Would it have been easier to use a 1 1/4" 4 sided nut and lop off the corners with a grinding wheel or cuttoff wheel, clean it up the correct proportions and weld the center of the nut onto the shaft?  Just wondering though.


Still, Looking Great! Keep the tech coming, Lovin it!
Logged

To error is to be human; to error and blame it on someone else, that managerial potential.
jps4jeep
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 10426


Average at best


« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2008, 04:05:52 PM »

If you want, I have some degreaser at work, need to wear a face shield, respirator, gloves and chem apron, but it will clean your axle up awesome!
Logged

To error is to be human; to error and blame it on someone else, that managerial potential.
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2008, 04:32:00 PM »

If you want, I have some degreaser at work, need to wear a face shield, respirator, gloves and chem apron, but it will clean your axle up awesome!

I'm going to try the old method of a screw driver, and wire brush.  It might take a while..but I dont mind.  If I start to go insane, I will PM you.  Thanks for the offer!

I used the bolt because I had one laying around, and didnt want to make the trip to the hardware store.  But why would I use a 4 sided nut?  Can you explain?

EDIT: I think I know what you mean.  I didnt leave the nut welded there.  I just used it as a guide, and chopped it off at the end. 
« Last Edit: January 24, 2008, 04:34:58 PM by Twisty » Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9594


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2008, 04:36:24 PM »

Cool thread Twisty..!  I am glad to see more stuff in the tech section with pictures Shocked  I don't know anything about these huge axles (except everyone wants them and they are HEAVY) so I am interested to learn all I can.

When you finally get these built and installed are you going to keep your stock engine or are you going to need an upgrade?

Keep up the good work and btw, that trick you showed me on the t-case lever for the XJ (pushing it forward) stopped that noise when sitting at idle.....thanks!!!

Kent

I'm going to keep the I6.  I like it, and it is simple to work on.  A V8 is too advanced for me at this point. 

I'll try to keep the pics coming.  Sometimes I get carried away with cleaning/grinding and I forget to take pics.  Oh, and I'm glad the shifter handle trick works...my XJ does that too.
Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro


Ballistic Fabrication
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 ... 79   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Replacement Parts for Jeep Vehicles & More...
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.10 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC | TinyPortal v0.9.8 © Bloc
SMF Theme © Gaia
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!