Project 2a (brakes lines, M/C, RPV) (Tranny rebuild)

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[BiGdAdDeE]

thats neat info.  Never knew!! thanks for the enlightenment.

[Crown Automotive - Jeff]

Chuck, just out of curiousity, why do you think they went with wood in the hat channels? I never really thought it out or questioned why...but since we're talking about the stock oak...any thoughts?

[XJFever]

maybe at the time it was cheaper than manufacturing rubber or poly for them?
OR, nothing says fancy like wood parts on a vehicle.

[derickw]

maybe at the time it was cheaper than manufacturing rubber or poly for them?
OR, nothing says fancy like wood parts on a vehicle.

[Posimoto]

Jeff was asking about the wood in the hat channels. Hat channels are spot welded to the bottom of the tub to hold the tub onto the frame.

I would guess the factory used wood for support of the hollow hat channels. It was a bad idea because they got wet and stayed that way for long periods of time and eventually rotted the channels.   

[Posimoto]

While climbing a steep grade my front left tire jumped up over a large root. Before the wheel came down it turned in and I could spin the steering wheel around like one of those coin operated toy cars outside a department stores. The bellcrank shaft sheared off needless to say getting the flattie home was very interesting.





From 1971 and down Jeep used the Ross steering that utilized a bellcrank which is mounted on the frame cross tube and swivels on two needle bearings. The shaft is removable from the frame bracket by driving out the tapered lock pin. After vin 199079 (1949) the pin and shaft were enlarge.

To access the top of the shaft I had to remove the radiator.



 The bellcrank mount bracket with the broken shaft and lock pin with 64 years to bond itself together.



The pin can be installed from either side but can only come out one way. Even with close inspection it’s difficult to determine which side to drive out. At the factory the pins were installed from the driver side to the passenger side. There is a good change a pervious owner rebuilt the bellcrank and shaft so it’s best to tap on both sides to find movement and go from there. After some heat/tapping turn out mine was installed from the driver side. I heated the mount until it was orange then went at it with a 2 pound hammer and awl. For the shaft that was stuck in the mount bracket I jacked up the front to remove the flexing then stood on the bumper and used a 4ft solid pipe and a 2 pound hammer and plenty of Kroil.

[Ian]

posi, i knew just the solution for your flatties' woes.  one ton axles, hyro assist, a 4.3 v and 40's

 

[Posimoto]

....I already have the tons, add the sm420/d-20 with d-18 gears and I'm good to go.

funny, I was talking to someone Sunday about a 4.3

[jps4jeep]

meeh fix it and leave it as is and enjoy it.

[Posimoto]

Installed the shaft, lock pin, with nut and torqued to 80 ft lbs installed new bearings in the bell crank as well.

While I had the radiator out I inspected a leak that appeared to be coming from the petcock. Turns out the PO tried a fix that didn’t work very well so I removed it and after cleaning used some jb weld. I primed the metal and used a special radiator paint meant to dissipate heat.

 

[Posimoto]

One more

[Posimoto]

For those who wheeled my flattie a couple weeks ago at the BY below is a pic of the clutch adjustment issue it had. Looks like someone had already made a visit to the cutch linkage in the past.



Besides the crack it had some wear as well.



I added some thickness and filled in the grove.



The clutch is working well again.

John, you were asking about the torque, 105 ft lbs. @ 2000rpm   

[BiGdAdDeE]

will this be with you at the BBQ chuck? 

[jps4jeep]

God I freaking love this jeep

[Ian]

man that clutch was tough!