Project 6

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[mika401]

Great write up as always Posi, whats your plan for the two nubs that stick out below the adapter at the back of the case?   The original D20 adapter covers them, but the AA doesn't.  Mine have always been exposed since I first did the swap & always wondered if it was ok to do so, not really sure what they do.

[Posimoto]

Great write up as always Posi, whats your plan for the two nubs that stick out below the adapter at the back of the case?

Thanks,
Those are the shafts and they will have a lock plate and bolt to secure them.

The original D20 adapter covers them, but the AA doesn't.  Mine have always been exposed since I first did the swap & always wondered if it was ok to do so, not really sure what they do.

Good question, the D-20 adapter covers the countershaft and the reverse idler gear shaft that protrude from the rear of the case. The AA adapter does not cover these shafts I assume to cut cost, less is more for them. This is why AA has you drill and tap the shafts lock plate so that you can secure the shafts with a bolt/lock plate.  

[Posimoto]

Here is a pic of the D-20 adapter (on left). You can see where there is a recess for the two shafts at the bottom of the adapter.

[mika401]

I asked AA once why the bolts at the front of the adapter didnt line up with my the back of my Jeep T-18 case, their answer was because the adapter was designed to be used with the Ford T-18 not the Jeep T-18.   Guess they haven't changed their design in over 10 years!  Now that I think about it JP Mag did a write up on this conversion & thats what they did, drill and tap the shafts lock plate. 

I have to say this, my case has taken some abuse over the last 10 years and never had a problem, never failed me.

[Posimoto]

Went shopping on “so called” black Friday.

[Twisty]

 

You could to leave them as is, recenter them, or run spacers?

[Posimoto]

After I cut down the mag runflats their good to go.

I'll be getting another set of tires down the road.

[rich]

 strongly recommend running rock rings from copperhead fab or some other company. The h1's like to bend rims. I also ran 1/2" rebar welded to the inside of mine as well

[rich]

Also you know you are going to have to run hi-steer arms to clear the h1's and cut the arm off the dana60 knuckel. Trevor from wfo was a great guy to deal with for all my hi-steer stuff

[Posimoto]

Thanks for the recommendations Rich, 

I already contacted Ballistic tried to take advantage of their turkey day discount but they don’t carry the hi-steer for h1. I’ve been looking at the arms from Northwest fab. I’ve also contacted Trail Worthy and a vendor on pirate about the rock rings.

[Twisty]

Chuck, take a look here.  Tons of info regarding high steer arm selection.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=762227&highlight=steering+arms

[jps4jeep]

wierd I was just reading that thread..

also, recentering the rims is also an option (which looks like someone did on those maybe, the white center is visually messing with me)

[Posimoto]

Not re-centered, that was the second thing I checked before I bought them.

Thanks for the link Tim, found it when I was thinking of hi-steering my 44 (project 5-77 CJ5)

[Posimoto]

While test fitting the adapter to the back of the transmission I noticed the supplied bolts are too long and will interfere with the reverse idler gear and the front clutch assembly. There are two other bolts that are not in the pic that are too long as well.

One bolt was a 1/4” too long and the other three 1/8” so I used a drummel to cut off the tips and cleaned them up with a fine file.



After cleaning and inspecting the small parts I decided to purchase a new kit from Jeff at Crown (New parts in bag).



I used a 1” dowel with some assembly grease to install the 88 roller bearings and 6 washers.



I put some stickum on the two rear washers and the front thrust washer. I used the two shafts installed just enough to help hold them while I installed the counter shaft.



On the second try I dropped the countershaft in.



I removed the reverse idler gear, 74 bearing rollers, 2 thrust washers, 1 spacer,1 bushing, and 2 snap rings off the shaft. All the bearings look fine and it was a good thing because their not supplied with the kit.



All packed and ready to install on the shaft.




This is a massive countershaft

[Posimoto]

Next is the dismantling of the mainshaft to be replaced with the AA shaft.



After removing the front snap ring you need to be careful not to let the clutch sleeve slide off the clutch hub. Inside the clutch hub are springs, shift plates, and lock balls that will come flying out with force. Eye protection is a must.  The best way to remove the clutch sleeve is to wrap a towel around it to contain the small parts. 

There are two clutch hubs, (from left to right) item number 2 and 4.



Mainshaft and replacement, note the shoulder on the new shaft. One snap ring and one thrust washer will be omitted on the new shaft.



New shaft assembled minus the thrust washer and snap ring.



I drilled and tapped the lock plate using a 1/4 bolt cut to size.