NewEnglandJeepz.org
May 19, 2012, 09:37:10 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
Custom Search
News:
 
  Home Help Search Gallery Login Register  


Ruff Stuff Specialties
Pages: 1 ... 9 10 11 [12] 13 14   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Project 6  (Read 6468 times)
0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.
Ian
Club Officer
Trade Count: (2)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7079


slow ride, take it easy


WWW
« Reply #165 on: February 01, 2012, 09:32:30 AM »

i've been very impressed with what i've seen of this tire size.

congrats!
Logged

i am an AMSOIL dealer! pm me for a quote

60 w/ minor bling 4.56, 14b ff rear w/detriot 4.56, atlas 2speed 5.0 4 custom link rear and 3link front, 110" wheelbase, pcs full hydro, fox 2.5's,  and 42" Irok stikies... and no clue

'00 tj (see above)
'95 Cherokee
'82 Cherokee
'83 wagoneer (rusted out parts vehicle
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #166 on: February 06, 2012, 08:11:00 PM »

Thanks for the kind words and comments,





20 psi, free standing, 38.5" about 15” wide

When it comes to shipping tires and large items prices can and do fluctuate. I spent 2 mins on the net and about 4 mins on the phone and I saved $70 on shipping fees.

When I first talked to a salesman at pit bull tire I was told the shipping for 4 – 39.5 tires wouldn’t run me more then $200 possibly a little less but around that price.

He didn’t give me a firm price so I thought it best to check around.

Group 4x4 Buy the nearest PB dealer wanted $170 to a commercial address $220 for home delivery.

Roadrunner truck line (who eventually delivered my tires for $80 less) wanted $210

Checked online at 4WD to ship any 4 same size tires and came up with $129

When I ordered the rockers I mentioned the 4WD shipping quote and they matched it.

Next time I'll save myself 4 mins on the phone and just check 4WD first.

Hope this helps.

« Last Edit: February 07, 2012, 08:27:15 PM by Posimoto » Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
98xj
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 1080



« Reply #167 on: February 07, 2012, 08:03:41 AM »

Very nice Posi!!  A little extra work can save a bunch of money.
Logged

1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic
1957 Jeep CJ-5
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #168 on: February 07, 2012, 09:01:00 AM »

Thanks,

A few more pics



Installed the studs by locking 2 nuts, short side down with loctite.





I torqued the steering arm to 90 ft/lbs and set the preload to 28 lbs.



Setting up the 60 wasn’t that much different then a close knuckle 25. The preload for the 25 is 12-16 lbs.

You will notice I didn’t install new prevailing nuts I got myself in a hurry to install the hub and wheel and decided to use the old ones (not recommended). I discovered Mitchell’s didn’t cut the driver side shaft down enough causing the shaft to bind when I torqued the spindle down. Shouldn’t be an issue I’ll just cut down the shaft a bit and while I’m at it install new prevailing nuts and paint the base of the spindle.    

« Last Edit: February 07, 2012, 09:01:32 AM by Posimoto » Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
Twisty
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9589


iFab, and you can too!


« Reply #169 on: February 07, 2012, 10:35:18 PM »

Chuck, keep an eye on that steering knuckle preload.  When you wear it in, it will loosen quickly.


H2s look killer with the PBRs.
Logged

88 MJ buggy, 4.0/AW4, 203/205, 3 link front/4 link rear on airshocks, 42" Iroks, full hydro
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #170 on: February 17, 2012, 08:32:04 AM »

Thanks Tim,

To fit the h2 rims on the dodge rear 60 I had to grind 1/16” from the center hole, after grinding they were a perfect fit.

I inspected the hub bearings and races and found the PO had replaced the bearings but not the races (the inner and outer races where Timken and the bearings were SKF). Two of the races were toast so I replaced those with the bearings as a set installed new hub seals as well.

I would have had both hubs on last night but noticed the inner spindle nut was missing a pin (slides into lock washer to hold inner spindle nut) so I’ll need to grab one today.

With the added weight of the stretch and axles I thought it was best to get some really beefy shackles.















Ok, so those bite size shackles wouldn’t hold up pulling a vw bug on asphalt, but I did find some 3/4” shackles for $6 each along with other rigging and recovery products. Made in the US as well.

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/

Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #171 on: February 17, 2012, 08:29:09 PM »

Tonight I cut off the stock front shock mounts and finished my tie rod.

I decided to use the stock dodge 60 tie rod (TR) I had in my shop apposed to the stock chevy 60 TR. The dodge is a beefier (1 1/4" – 1/4" wall) then the chevy (1 1/6") plus the dodge has internal threads compared to the adjustment sleeve on the chevy. 



Having previously cut down my axle by 4” I had to cut down the TR that much plus factor in hi-steer offset this meant cutting off the threaded end. I didn’t have a 7/8” 18 tap to run new threads so I chose to make two cuts and weld back on the original tube end that housed the threads.

The first cut was to save the 2” of threaded tube the second cut would remove the excess tube to get the correct fit.



With the extra section removed I could now burn in the threaded end piece using a sleeve.






 

 

Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
Krome
Trade Count: (0)
Guest

Offline Offline

Posts: 4361



« Reply #172 on: March 18, 2012, 11:51:09 AM »

Logged
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #173 on: March 19, 2012, 08:47:28 AM »

 Cheesy

I spent some time cleaning up dr wheels brake work. They installed extended brake hose only to lose 3” by mounting them on top of the frame. The hard lines were new but laid out in a mess so I’m running all new hard lines.



Extended brake hose napa part # 38872 = length  25.25"



I finished my drag link. I decided to cut the original drag link adjuster in half and weld in each end (right and left hand threads) into ends of 1” pipe.





I took some material off to make a tight fit into the pipe.



 

Big thanks to Jay (jaydawg) for lending me the proper tool to ream out the pitman arm and steering arm.

I used the original drag link end hole to gauge depth then taped off. (setup for pic only)



Not a lot of beef around that hole, I’ll keep an eye on it.



 


Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
05rckymtn
Official NEJ Member
Trade Count: (0)
*******
Offline Offline

Posts: 691



« Reply #174 on: March 19, 2012, 10:40:08 AM »

nice updates....do you have an updated punch list?

Logged
rich
Official NEJ Member
Trade Count: (0)
*******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1065


« Reply #175 on: March 19, 2012, 11:29:08 AM »

i used a waggy pitman arm lots more beef and you don't have to remove so much material
Logged

86cj7
79cj5
74 wagoneer
66cj5 134,t90
66cj5 225 dauntless
47 bantam tc3
46cj2a
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #176 on: March 19, 2012, 11:36:44 AM »

i used a waggy pitman arm lots more beef and you don't have to remove so much material

Well, you have to remove the same amount of material, but I know what you mean. I used a wagon pitman arm on my project 5 the CJ arm was handy so that’s what I used.

nice updates....do you have an updated punch list?


Thanks, the punch list, but not limited to: rear brakes, fuel/brake lines, trac-bar, install tub and add 20” of sheetmetal, build cage, front/rear DS, install ram/cooler/lines, twin sticks, rocker/skid protection, tube fenders, paint, and wiring.

The list became a bit longer when I gave my final gear some thought. The 4.10 were fine when I was thinking of running 37’s but with the 39’s I had to address that issues which I have deciding to run a 5.13 final drive.

I decided to go with USA standard gear because of the price ($50 less a set then yukon). Standard gear is yukon except they don’t do the final lapping with a fine grit compound that helps with break-in and runs quieter/cooler. I won’t hear gear noise, if any, over the larger tires (won’t be at higher speeds as well).

Yukon/ “USA” Standard Gears are manufactured by Punjab Bevel Gears in Ghaziabad, India.  I found a good price on the gears on a tip from Miguel.  







« Last Edit: March 19, 2012, 11:39:48 AM by Posimoto » Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #177 on: March 19, 2012, 12:06:57 PM »

A whole new perspective

60/30




Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
j-dawg
Club Officer
Trade Count: (0)
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1509


WWW
« Reply #178 on: March 19, 2012, 02:28:58 PM »

nice work chuck! (as usual!) Afro
Logged
Posimoto
Club Officer
Trade Count: (1)
*****
Online Online

Posts: 2797



« Reply #179 on: March 19, 2012, 03:33:50 PM »

Thanks again Jay!





Ran fuel (3/8" feed, 5/16" return) and brake lines to the engine compartment. I went with 3/8" feed for that IF possibility. Yes, I found a use for those light fixture brackets that were hanging around my shop far too long.



Rebuilt mc 2100.








Logged

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
77 CJ5 258/T-150
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch


Replacement Parts for Jeep Vehicles & More...
Pages: 1 ... 9 10 11 [12] 13 14   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Elias 4WD Center
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.10 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC | TinyPortal v0.9.8 © Bloc
SMF Theme © Gaia
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!