Project 5

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[Krome]

Thanks!

You have such great attention to detail. Also, did those axles I post up in the for sale section come to your use? Or rather, collection?

Looking good!

[Posimoto]

No, although I would have if they were narrow tracks (30) being their an upgrade for 71 and down. Thanks for posting the axles and comments though.

[Posimoto]

Having a problem with photobucket again. Some of the pics are not showing up on my account of the 7 pics I had planned to post tonight only 3 show on the account. I made no changes to the album or account so I'm sure it's on their end. I checked earlier pages in this thread some pics are there some are not.

I'll make an entry when the pics become available. Sorry about the delay.

[BiGdAdDeE]

 
Photofuckit has been messing with the wrong MOFO.  Do they know who you are?

[Posimoto]

Their back,

I bought some 760x u-joints from Jeff @crown. I used a press to install the u-joints and used a hammer to tap the yoke of the shaft to set the caps. I also replaced the axle shaft seal (dust seal) and added grease around the thrust face of the shaft, seal area of spindle, and valley of the seal.

 

I greased the inner splines before installing the axle shaft being careful not to dislodge the inner axle seal. I kept the shaft centered until the shaft splines engaged the side gears then pushed the shaft in.

I replaced the needle bearings in both spindles and greased them before installing. I used loctite and torque the spindle nuts to 30 ft lbs





I had two backing plates to choose from the wagon plate is a two piece plate with a caliber bracket and thin dust shield tacked on. The chevy plate is one solid piece and weighs twice as much as the wagon plate. I went with the chevy plate which should last a lot longer.









 

[Twisty]

What is the purpose of the backing plate?  It just seems like extra stuff to me.

[BiGdAdDeE]

What is the purpose of the backing plate?  It just seems like extra stuff to me.

dust shield?

[Posimoto]

What is the purpose of the backing plate?  It just seems like extra stuff to me.

The purpose of the backing plates is to protect the inside surface of the disc from rocks and other debris.  It also acts as a bracket for the caliber. The Jeep 44 backing plate would be useless at protecting the disc off-road but the chevy plate is 1/4” thick and would be useful as a skid, plus it’s free.  

[Twisty]

I see.  I didn't catch the part about the caliper mounting. 

[jps4jeep]

I suggest cutting off the dust shield, when I first built my 44 I ran a dust shield, I kept getting pebbles and debris behind it and it scored the first set of rotors pretty bad. I just cut off what was not desired and retained what is needed.

[Posimoto]

I kept getting pebbles and debris behind it and it scored the first set of rotors pretty bad.

I gave the above statement some thought, pebbles/debris scoring the inside of the disc or rocks/debris scoring the outside of the disc. I believe the chances are higher that a stick could get trapped between the backing plate and disc. Off went the chevy backing plates. I decided to use the Jeep bracket/dust shield and save the chevy plate for another project. 

I ground down the two spot welds from the brackets and mounted them. Before installing the hub the bracket will get another coat of paint.



I installed new inner cups and bearings into the ford hubs I used a brass punch to install the cups by tapping around the top until it seated. I made sure to clean up any small splinters of brass that tend to come of the drift.



After filling the bearing with grease I installed a new inner seal I made sure to coat the outside edge with Super 300 I used a block of wood and hammer to tap the seal in.



After mounting the hub and rotor I installed the bearing adjuster inner locking nut making sure the peg (located on one side) was facing away from the bearing. I mounted the wheel and rotated it while I tightened the locknut to 50 ft lbs (rotating the wheel helps seat the bearings uniformly). Once the bearings were seated I loosened the locknut and retighten to 35 ft lbs then backed off about 1/3 turn.

I then installed the retaining washer making sure to engage the peg on the inner locking nut into one of several holes on the washer. I tightened the outer locking nut to 55 ft lbs. The hub will see another coat of paint as well.

     

[Posimoto]

I bought a new set of warn locking hubs for $85 shipped and decided to keep my used set I found at the pick and pull for spares.



The installation is straight forward and simple. I first slid in the locking hub body assembly.



Next is the large lock ring into the recess in hub housing.

 

I used a screwdriver to pry the shaft outbound a bit to give me enough clearance to installed the axle retaining ring.





I turned the cap to the free position and used anti-seize on the screws then installed the cap.

[BiGdAdDeE]

man those locking wire spring rings can be a nut buster to get out.  I did a set of axles and balljoints a few months back and it was the first time I was intruduced to that type of setup.  I quickly found use of the new set of picks I bought.  Made that job so much easier.  installation is a breeze just pop them in but getting them out on those Ford hubs anyway was a biotch.  It was a 1995 F150 I am refering too.  Your application looks like they are easier to access than the one I did.  You could barely even see the rings and there was maybe 1/8" of room to get in there to work them out.

Really coming together nicely Posi!

[Posimoto]

Thanks Rich,

Bought a new set of calipers for $14 and shot a coat of high heat blue on them. I also added some semi-metallic pads for $20, kinda odd pads being more then calipers but it is what it is.



All 4 on the ground

[mika401]

Wow its coming together real nicely, I've always loved those rims by the way.