Project 5

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[jps4jeep]

sweet, those stock steering arms are a major PITA to get off. heat and hammer will do it, also the studs will need to come out for the Histeer (other project I guess) double nuts and lots of heat.

[Posimoto]

Thanks,

I started work on my front waggy 44 this past weekend I removed the outers and shafts and just need to pop out the gears. With the aide from a previous post by Jason and some research of my own I plan to narrow the axle to match my recently completed 86 CJ 44. I will cut about 4” give or take.  If I can find a scout shaft to match the cut I’ll use it or have the waggy shaft cut and re-splined.

[BiGdAdDeE]

looks better bare than I do Chuck

[Mitch]

I have those same horses, i am impressed that they are doing the job!

[Posimoto]

They have worked very well for me. I put them to the test when I turn the axle sideways so as to use a downward turn on the knuckle jam nut using a ¾ breaker ratchet, held steady while hammering off the knuckles as well.  

Side note: if a vehicle is stored on the left side of a barn and both face north you can be assured the parts on the right will be more difficult to remove then the left side.   

[Posimoto]

A quick review of the procedures I used in stripping the front 44.

Remove the two calibers pins and caliber.

I removed the rotor hub cap screws and used a rubber mallet to pop off the cap. I then removed the two snap rings, one is on the end of the axle shaft and the other is recessed in the hub. You will need some type of pick set to pry up the hub ring. If your dental hygienist is digging you she would be more then happy to give you a couple.

Next removed would be the drive gear, pressure spring, and spring retainer. You can use the screws from the outer cap to aide in removing the drive gear. The axle is 30 years old so I had to lube and work the drive gear to persuade it to come out, typically they should come out with ease as the other side did for me.

There will be two lock nuts that you will need a special socket with prongs to remove they are inexpensive and you can find then at any FLAPS. There is a washer that’s best removed using a magnet as well. You can now slide off the hub.

To remove the spindle I re-installed the lock nut and tapped it on all side to loosen the spindle. When I had a gap between the spindle and knuckle I then used a screw driver and worked it around the spindle until it came off. The shafts can now be removed.

Next were the knuckles, there is a cotter pin in the castle nut but most times in these old axles their rusted and break off. I don’t fool with then much I just bend then over and use a gun to loosen the nut. Leave the castle nut flush with the top of the ball stub. Remove the jam nut on the lower ball joint. With the castle nut flash you now have a good base to give it a good wack with a 3 pound hammer and the knuckle will pop off. This may take more then a few wacks but it should come off.

To remove the diff gears loosen the bearing cap bolts but don’t take them completely off that way they will hold the diff case from accidentally falling to the ground. I used two pry bars to remove the case I also used some sheet metal under the bar as not to nick the machined surface. Once you pop the case loose then remove the bearing caps. If your reusing the bearings make sure you mark the bearing caps because they need to go back in the same place.

With sheet metal already removed.


Next removed the pinion nut, using a puller makes short work of the yoke. Using a rubber mallet give the pinion a light blow and the pinion should pop out. Re-installing the diff cover is a good idea so the pinion doesn't land on the ground.

I removed the bearing cups with an awl by tapping around the cup. One cup will need to be removed from the diff cover side and the other from the pinion side.

[jps4jeep]

If your reusing the bearings make sure you mark the bearing caps because they need to go back in the same place.

Gear Newbs... Pay attention to this one!

[derickw]

i'm hoping to rip into an 8.8 next week... wanna come by and do it for me... i mean help me. this is gonna be interesting.

nice work, you make it sound so easy.

[Posimoto]

Thanks,

It can be fairly easy to strip an axle if you do your research before hand and work with patience. If you have any questions asked away there are plenty of knowledgeable members here that can help. I’m willing to bet if one member doesn’t know the answer the next one will.     

[Twisty]

Chuck, are those 3" tubes on the D44?  They look pretty thick.

[Posimoto]

Yes, their 3" tubes and about 1/4" wall thickness.

The tubes are a 1/2" bigger then the stock 30.

[Posimoto]

Front 44 continued,

Most websites have the front NT waggy width between 59”-60” I measured mine out at 61” wms to wms. Instead of cutting to match my rear 44 exactly I cut the front more so to balance it out. I measured from the middle of the spring pad on the short side to the right wms and then measured both center spring pads on a WT D-30 to get a balanced front end. I ended up cutting 4 1/8 off the long side.

I removed the long side spring pad and shock mount.

[Posimoto]

No turning back now!



I cut the inner knuckle first and made the cut close to the weld to aide in the tube removal.



Final tube cut

 



I ground down the weld until I could see the separation between the tube and inner knuckle. You will see a definite separation I just wasn’t there yet when I took this pic.  



I made two 90 degree cuts then punched out one half at a time.







I took the edge off the tube and tapped on the inner knuckle or “C”. There are a few ways to match both C’s and I had a couple levels handy so I used them.



I ran out of light and time so I will tap on the C the rest of the way and weld it on along with the spring pad and shock mount.

[Posimoto]

I picked up some 4.10 gears Sunday as well.

[Axle]

Nice work Chuck!