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Author Topic: 1" transfer casedrop QUESTION  (Read 715 times)
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oldfart
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« on: March 17, 2011, 02:36:23 PM »

Ok thanks for any help in advance. I have a 98 tj. I put a 3" lift in it and I am putting in a 1" drop for the transfer case. Is it normal for the stock bolts to strip all the threads off the frame? It has happened on the first 3 bolts I have taken out. Is this normal and any suggestions on dealing with this problem? Do I tap the frame hole for a bigger bolt? Is there another solution? Sad
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jerry k
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« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2011, 02:57:08 PM »

I would make a solid.1" spacer out of flat stock..drill and tap it for the crossmember and then weld it to the frame. You could always cut it off later when u go with a sye and heavier cross member.
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Ian
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« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2011, 03:17:52 PM »

Is it normal for the stock bolts to strip all the threads off the frame?

yes. unfortunately it is. Its a TJ thing.  Roll Eyes  IMHO the best methods require welding 3 nuts to a plate and welding that plate to the bottom of the frame. 
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oldfart
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« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2011, 03:30:40 PM »

Bummer! I think I will weld the bolts right to the frame. If that turns out to be too hard I will weld them to a piece of steel like you suggested.
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Krome
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« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2011, 03:50:52 PM »

You can also cut small holes in the side of the frame and do the nut/bolt method.
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Axle
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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2011, 06:20:39 PM »

I would have skipped the drop, and eventually do a slip yoke eliminator
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Ian
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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2011, 06:23:41 PM »

I would have skipped the drop, and eventually do a slip yoke eliminator

X2
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60 w/ minor bling 4.56, 14b ff rear w/detriot 4.56, atlas 2speed 5.0 4 custom link rear and 3link front, 110" wheelbase, pcs full hydro, fox 2.5's,  and 42" Irok stikies... and no clue

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jps4jeep
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2011, 07:10:34 PM »

I would have skipped the drop, and eventually do a slip yoke eliminator
Same but does not negate the frame issue, you'd have to drop the skid to do the sye anyways
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Ian
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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2011, 07:49:57 PM »

When you do a sye will need a new drive shaft.  Get out of the sport while you can.   Woot!
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60 w/ minor bling 4.56, 14b ff rear w/detriot 4.56, atlas 2speed 5.0 4 custom link rear and 3link front, 110" wheelbase, pcs full hydro, fox 2.5's,  and 42" Irok stikies... and no clue

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jeeptech
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2011, 08:30:15 PM »

Drill straight up through the frame and through bolt it.  you will need a 6-7" bolt and some large washers for the top of the frame and nylock nuts.  This works very well and is fast and easy.  X2 on the SYE. 
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Axle
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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2011, 08:52:10 PM »

x2 on the through bolting  Grin
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« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2011, 11:59:36 AM »

Is it normal for the stock bolts to strip all the threads off the frame?

yes. unfortunately it is. Its a TJ thing.  Roll Eyes  IMHO the best methods require welding 3 nuts to a plate and welding that plate to the bottom of the frame. 

YJ thing too  Grin

My threaded inserts, rivnuts, nutserts, whatever you call them stripped out as well but the bottom section of my frame was good and rusty so I took the opportunity to weld in some 3/16" angle.

You can buy new inserts from Fastenal.


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oldfart
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« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2011, 01:33:35 PM »

Well I drilled 1 1/4" holes in the frame so I could get a nut and a wrench inside. Then used 1/2' bolts and it worked like a charm.
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Ian
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« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2011, 02:56:33 PM »

congrats.  i'd plan on all of those nuts rusting away in the future. 
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i am an AMSOIL dealer! pm me for a quote

60 w/ minor bling 4.56, 14b ff rear w/detriot 4.56, atlas 2speed 5.0 4 custom link rear and 3link front, 110" wheelbase, pcs full hydro, fox 2.5's,  and 42" Irok stikies... and no clue

'00 tj (see above)
'95 Cherokee
'82 Cherokee
'83 wagoneer (rusted out parts vehicle
Krome
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« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2011, 03:23:31 PM »

congrats.  i'd plan on all of those nuts rusting away in the future. 

I dont think so.
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