New England Jeepz
General Category => Builds => Topic started by: Axle on September 03, 2014, 07:34:44 AM
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end of day 1 barn teaser
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/b3.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/b3.jpg.html)
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Details?
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my pole barn, 40'x60'x12', finally going up. ;)
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end of day 2
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/siding.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/siding.jpg.html)
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4 guy crew of Mennonites. doing a great job! nice people too.
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Nice!
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:cheers:
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jealous!
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Does the side door face the house?
Sweet!
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I had to look up what "Mennonites" was. For some reason I had in my head a cross breeding between a morrmon and an amish.
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...is drooling
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very nice bob, no foundation?
whats your plan for flooring?
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Great progress Bob!! You've needed a barn for a long while!!
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Does the side door face the house?
Sweet!
yes
very nice bob, no foundation?
whats your plan for flooring?
concrete floor, no foundation, its a pole barn, the posts go 42" in the ground.
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end of day 3
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/done.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/done.jpg.html)
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You sir.... Have done this RIGHT.
Simply amazed by the size and the timeline
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Congrats Bob!!
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Very cool. I'm amazed how fast that went up.
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nice, I'm not positive but i'm pretty sure up here in MA you wouldn't get away with that without pouring a foundation. I may be wrong though.
3" slab i assume. Make sure if you plan on putting in a car lift you plan ahead and reinforce where it would mount and pour deeper pads.
My friend ran some lighting in the floor under the lift area and Had the footprints for his lift before he poured the floor so we welded the studs into place with re-bar because he owns a couple of heavy trucks and didn't want any issues.
bottom line, thats going to be a sweet area and that is a pretty decent size.
oh hey can i store some stuff in there?
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Way to go Bob!
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thanks everybody!
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In mass pole barns are allowed, the posts act like a foundation more or less. I built several pole barns in mass, no issues as long as the posts are below frost line
Think of a deck, same concept
It is amazing how fast a pole barn a can go up. Looks great bob
I am sure you thought of this but at min I would pour the slab 4" thick with fiber re-enforced concrete, also I would add a [censored] ton of rebar to the slab, the more the better. It's cheap insurance. I would also use a thick poly for a vapor barrier, the cost difference between the thin stuff and the better stuff is not much and worth the investment. Oh and another thing make sure when it is poured that the finishers don't "wet up" those concrete to make it flow easier for themselves. It will weaken the concrete and be more likely to crack and chip easily. It's common for concrete guys to add water while puring to make it easier to pour but it hurts your finished product. That's a big pet peeve of mine, lazy concrete guys . . . . . . .
And as tony said think about adding thick pads in case you want to add a lift I the future. I had to cut out a section of slab to dig footings for a lift and it sucked. It so easy to do now you might as well do it.
I am sure you know all this bob but I just wanted to make sure you did so you end up with a great finished barn / shop / garage.
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Any concerns with wood and rot with the posts being underground? I assume it is pressure treated lumber, but even pressure treated will eventually rot right?
Pardon Ignorance, but with the two decks I've help build, both had concrete footings to put the wood on top of.
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Any concerns with wood and rot with the posts being underground? I assume it is pressure treated lumber, but even pressure treated will eventually rot right?
Pardon Ignorance, but with the two decks I've help build, both had concrete footings to put the wood on top of.
i am also wondering this
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My dad has a pole barn built at least 30 years ago. No issues with rotting posts. I helped a good friend of mine build a pole barn when I was 20ish years old (so 22 years ago). My buddy has no issues to date with any rot either and he runs a commercial trucking business out of it. Most pole barns built today (but not all) will have concrete poured around the posts so the concrete is actually in direct contact with the earth. My dad's and the one I helped build does not have concrete poured around the posts.
My deck reference was in terms of load transfer by the way. A deck is designed around a 40 to 60psf (pounds per sq foot) live load. A roof has those same load perimeters. So if you think about it it basically the same thing. Pole barns are not used for houses (loving space for humans) so they don't have the same foundation requirements as a home.
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thanks Todd, I planned to do at least a 4" slab. good info though. the PT is rated for about 50 years, that would make me 100, so...
also, I am definitely having a lift, tired of laying under cars. ;)
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Good to know. I guess it makes sense, our dock ispressure treated wood (although painted every year) and is submerged in water April-Oct every year. The last rebuild I remember was in the 80's at some point. I guess load would be different though.
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spose I should update this; with the help of Brooksy, got the 250' of underground wire in and passed the inspection to get service to the barn. also started the 1' of 2" closed cell faomboard around the perimeter. next is the radiant then we can finally pour the 5" 5000psi concrete.
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/pole.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/pole.jpg.html)
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/meter%20amp%20ground%20rods.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/meter%20amp%20ground%20rods.jpg.html)
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/panel%20done.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/panel%20done.jpg.html)
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/rigid%20foam%20skirt.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/rigid%20foam%20skirt.jpg.html)
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Nice,
5" I see a lift in your future.
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as soon as I figure out where the lift will go, I can dig a footing as well as not run the heat tubing there.
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I was thinking about it since I saw the barn the other day and you could put the lift in a couple of places. 1) straight in about 1/2 way on the center door. 2) make the far door not really used and put it on an angle so you pull in and then swing right. Leaves more open space and easier to move around it. But either way, I'm still jealous
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I'm thinking dead center at this point.
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At 5" there wouldn't be a need for a footing if your going 10,000 lbs or under.
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hmmm that would be nice. belts and suspenders?
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narrowed the insulation down to this brand I think. saves a couple steps.
http://www.crete-heat.com/home.html
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I would put the lift in on an angle either left or right as you enter the building. Leave the center open as much as possible. Plus it puts your tool box on a wall, less walking around the shop getting tools when working on a car.
Look at car dealership service bays, they usually set them up this way.
Just my .02
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Crete-heat floor insulation is here
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/crete-heat.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/crete-heat.jpg.html)
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started on a slightly tedious job, but it is getting there.
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/axle05/crete-heat%202.jpg) (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/axle05/media/crete-heat%202.jpg.html)
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Looks like Legos
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it pretty much is. hardest part is leveling the bony gravel.
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this is my favorite build right now