New England Jeepz
General Category => Builds => Topic started by: Posimoto on November 08, 2010, 08:46:59 PM
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I was asked to take some pics of adapting a D-300 to a T-18 so I though I start a build thread.
I just picked up this 79 CJ5 because the price was right and I figured I’d have some fun with it. It’s close to being trail ready as is but I plan to change a few things.
The first thing I’m doing is removing the light duty T-5 tranny and replace it with a CJ T-18 (6.32) I had stored in my shop I’ll use the D-300 that’s already behind the T-5. I will install a 4.1 kit in the D-300 that came new in the box with the Jeep. If I had a set of 44s handy I’d through them under it but I don’t so I will use the D-60s (4.10s) I have in my shop. IMO the 60s are a great fit for my short wheel base plus I only paid $300 for the set. The rear 60FF diff hangs just ¾” lower then an 86 CJ44. I will bore out the rear spindles by .22 and use D-70 1.5 35 spline shafts to replace the rear 60 1.31 30 spline shafts. At this time I’m planning to go with a 35”-36” tire with soa and outboard the springs. My final crawl will be 106.1, I wasn't looking to go that low but as I mentioned the Jeep came with a free 4.1 kit, and well, it is what it is.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/DSCN2113.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/DSCN2114.jpg)
I have a few things to play with, 4.1 kit, disc brake brackets, T-18/D300 adaptor. I also picked up a new chop saw with 10 blades.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2120.jpg)
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I've had the same adapter in my T18 for almost 10 years now.
Thats going to be a wiked low ratio
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nice chuck! Will this one have power steering! :D
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Posi = what I aspire to be when I am what ever age posi is.
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posi, that chop saw is the nuggets, i have the same one.. 8)
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I stripped down the rear 60HD to bore out the spindles and add disc brakes. There are different rear 60s out there and I was lucky enough to get the heavy duty rear with added webbing on the diff and large OD spindles. The big spindles have a larger O.D. than the little spindles. The little spindles measure about 1.8" O.D. and the big spindles measure about 1.95" same size as the 14b.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2119.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2121.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2122.jpg)
Below is the T-18 I’ll use to mate to the D-300. I removed the D-20, adapter, and b-housing.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2123.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2125.jpg)
The first thing you have to check is if the adapter came with the correct 23 spline mainshaft because they make a 27 spline for a Ford T-18 as well.
The adapter has 2 bottom mounting holes that the T-18 does not so I have to drill and tap the case. I installed the adapter with 4 of the 6 mounting bolts and scribed the case. I used whiteout as a base to help ID the marks.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2127.jpg)
I then removed the bearings and mainshaft. There are 22 roller bearings that will fall to the bottom of the case I happen to find 23, maybe one is the top shift pin or someone could have already been in there. I’ll know more once I inspect the roller bearings.
Bearings, mainshaft, retaining and lock clips
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2128.jpg)
I pressure washed the case about a week ago and didn’t drain the oil/water until this weekend = dirty lube.
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How are you going to bore out the spindles? What ID do you plan? Are you going to run 35 spline shafts. 8)
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I'm subbing it out to a friend who will do it for much less then the cost of a 1 9/16 (1.562") drill bit, a bit I would need to purchase if I was to do it myself. I will bore the spindles out to 1.6 to except the 1.5 35 spline shafts. This is why you need the larger 60 OD spindles at 1.95, the smaller 1.8 would only leave about 1/8" material after boring.
There are other alternatives although they don't seem piratical to me, find a 70 and cut off the spindles and re-weld them on the 60 or have Mitchell's cut the 60 spindles off, bore, and re-weld back onto the 60 at IMO a high price of $350 (they don't bore the spindle on the axle).
Edit: side note, very few FF 60's came with 35 splines. Most are under chevy van's and are much wider than the rest of the 60's
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74-75 ish J series trucks had a semi float 35 spline 60, or am I wrong?
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Rich, older chevys had 60 rears, used towards the end of the eaton axles and previous to the Corporate axles
Bcarms on this board had a 2wd 69 (or 70) GMC C20 pickup with a 8 ft step side bed that had a straight 6, unknown tranny and ff d60 rear.
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74-75 ish J series trucks had a semi float 35 spline 60, or am I wrong?
The correct year for the FSJ 60-2 is 69-73 and it is a 35 spline but my reference was to “FF”.
very few "FF" 60's came with 35 splines. Most are under chevy van's and are much wider than the rest of the 60's
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I've had the same adapter in my T18 for almost 10 years now.
Did you do the install? If so did you do a write-up? I know you weren't a member 10 years ago but it's certainly possible you posted from a saved write-up.
I did a search didn't find anything. If it's been posted here already I rather not take the time just to duplicated it.
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Unfortunately it was so long ago doing & posting a write-up was beyond my computer skills at the time.
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Just a note about removing the mainshaft bearings, they make a bearing remover that slides behind the bearing snap ring that makes removing the bearing a breeze but it’s not needed. After removing the snap ring I used a brass drift working from inside the case to remove the rear bearing. I left the lock ring on the front bearing and used a dead blow hammer on the tip of the clutch shaft to remove the bearing. Both front and rear mainshaft bearings are ball bearing type opposed to the cylindrical or tapered roller bearing.
I next removed the lock plate from the rear of the case that locks the countershaft and reverse idler gear shaft. I tapped out the countershaft to the rear of the case using a brass drift once the shaft was out I was able to remove the countershaft gear assembly. The countershaft assembly has 88 roller bearings and the reverse idler has 74 bearing rollers.
The reverse idle gear shaft does not come out as easily as the countershaft because the front of the shaft is located inside the case unlike the countershaft that is on the outside of the case. I used a long extension and dead blow hammer.
Note the magnet at the bottom of the case it’s a well thought out option.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2130.jpg)
I cleaned the case for a second time and chased all threads as well. I used a 5/16 bit and drilled 2 holes for the adapter.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2131.jpg)
After cleaning the burs I tapped the hole using a 3/8” 16 tap. You can drill a hole in a block of wood and use it to keep the tap going in straight I chose to use a torpedo level it worked for me.
I test fit the adapter and all holes lined up perfectly.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2132.jpg)
I cleaned the case of metal filings, washed, and prepped for paint.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2135.jpg)
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8) 8) 8) 8)
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Great write up as always Posi, whats your plan for the two nubs that stick out below the adapter at the back of the case? The original D20 adapter covers them, but the AA doesn't. Mine have always been exposed since I first did the swap & always wondered if it was ok to do so, not really sure what they do.
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Great write up as always Posi, whats your plan for the two nubs that stick out below the adapter at the back of the case?
Thanks,
Those are the shafts and they will have a lock plate and bolt to secure them.
The original D20 adapter covers them, but the AA doesn't. Mine have always been exposed since I first did the swap & always wondered if it was ok to do so, not really sure what they do.
Good question, the D-20 adapter covers the countershaft and the reverse idler gear shaft that protrude from the rear of the case. The AA adapter does not cover these shafts I assume to cut cost, less is more for them. This is why AA has you drill and tap the shafts lock plate so that you can secure the shafts with a bolt/lock plate.
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Here is a pic of the D-20 adapter (on left). You can see where there is a recess for the two shafts at the bottom of the adapter.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1977%20CJ5%20build/DSCN1828.jpg)
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I asked AA once why the bolts at the front of the adapter didnt line up with my the back of my Jeep T-18 case, their answer was because the adapter was designed to be used with the Ford T-18 not the Jeep T-18. Guess they haven't changed their design in over 10 years! Now that I think about it JP Mag did a write up on this conversion & thats what they did, drill and tap the shafts lock plate.
I have to say this, my case has taken some abuse over the last 10 years and never had a problem, never failed me.
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Went shopping on “so called” black Friday.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2136.jpg)
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8) 8)
You could to leave them as is, recenter them, or run spacers?
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After I cut down the mag runflats their good to go.
I'll be getting another set of tires down the road.
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strongly recommend running rock rings from copperhead fab or some other company. The h1's like to bend rims. I also ran 1/2" rebar welded to the inside of mine as well
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Also you know you are going to have to run hi-steer arms to clear the h1's and cut the arm off the dana60 knuckel. Trevor from wfo was a great guy to deal with for all my hi-steer stuff
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Thanks for the recommendations Rich,
I already contacted Ballistic tried to take advantage of their turkey day discount but they don’t carry the hi-steer for h1. I’ve been looking at the arms from Northwest fab. I’ve also contacted Trail Worthy and a vendor on pirate about the rock rings.
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Chuck, take a look here. Tons of info regarding high steer arm selection.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=762227&highlight=steering+arms
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wierd I was just reading that thread..
also, recentering the rims is also an option (which looks like someone did on those maybe, the white center is visually messing with me)
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Not re-centered, that was the second thing I checked before I bought them.
Thanks for the link Tim, found it when I was thinking of hi-steering my 44 (project 5-77 CJ5)
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While test fitting the adapter to the back of the transmission I noticed the supplied bolts are too long and will interfere with the reverse idler gear and the front clutch assembly. There are two other bolts that are not in the pic that are too long as well.
One bolt was a 1/4” too long and the other three 1/8” so I used a drummel to cut off the tips and cleaned them up with a fine file.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2214.jpg)
After cleaning and inspecting the small parts I decided to purchase a new kit from Jeff at Crown (New parts in bag).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2215.jpg)
I used a 1” dowel with some assembly grease to install the 88 roller bearings and 6 washers.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2216.jpg)
I put some stickum on the two rear washers and the front thrust washer. I used the two shafts installed just enough to help hold them while I installed the counter shaft.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2217.jpg)
On the second try I dropped the countershaft in.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2218.jpg)
I removed the reverse idler gear, 74 bearing rollers, 2 thrust washers, 1 spacer,1 bushing, and 2 snap rings off the shaft. All the bearings look fine and it was a good thing because their not supplied with the kit.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2219.jpg)
All packed and ready to install on the shaft.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2220.jpg)
This is a massive countershaft
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2221.jpg)
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Next is the dismantling of the mainshaft to be replaced with the AA shaft.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2222.jpg)
After removing the front snap ring you need to be careful not to let the clutch sleeve slide off the clutch hub. Inside the clutch hub are springs, shift plates, and lock balls that will come flying out with force. Eye protection is a must. The best way to remove the clutch sleeve is to wrap a towel around it to contain the small parts.
There are two clutch hubs, (from left to right) item number 2 and 4.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2223.jpg)
Mainshaft and replacement, note the shoulder on the new shaft. One snap ring and one thrust washer will be omitted on the new shaft.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2224.jpg)
New shaft assembled minus the thrust washer and snap ring.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2226.jpg)
I drilled and tapped the lock plate using a 1/4 bolt cut to size.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2227.jpg)
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I packed the 22 roller bearings in the clutch shaft then put it through the front bearing bore from inside the case. Then I dropped the rear end of the mainshaft assembly through the bearing bore at the rear of the case (won’t drop straight in). I installed the snap rings on both bearing and used a pipe and soft plow hammer to install the bearings. Make sure you tap on the inner part of the bearing and not the outer.
To keep the 22 roller bearings in place I used a piece of wood at the end of the shaft and tapped on the bearings.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2230.jpg)
Complete
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2233.jpg)
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Right on!
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The plus side of doing the T-18/D-300 adapter is that I now have an extra mainshaft, drive gear, D-20 factory adapter, spacer, and D-20. I now have everything to mate a ford T-18 to a D-20 without spending $500 on the aftermarket adapter. All I would need to do is drill a few hole in the ford case and plug the bottom 2 factory holes.
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I installed a Spartan locker in the rear. It is the same brand I installed in my front 44 Project 5 so I won’t bore you with the details.
For those who haven’t viewed the install it can be found here.
https://newenglandjeepz.org/forum/builds/project-5/75/
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2234.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2235.jpg)
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Is that a D60 carrier?
Did I miss something & youre running a D60 in the 5?
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Its in the other cj5 project
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Yes, I'm running Dodge 60s in the 79 blue CJ5 (Project 5 x2) and 44s in the 77 CJ5 (Project 5)
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Ah gotcha
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new cross pin, smart.
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I can't take credit for ordering a new pin as it came with the locker, unlike others in its class, pin and locker = $260.
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Removed the D-300 from the rig, plan to rebuild and install the 4.1 gears should be finished sometime this week.
One rear 60 spindle bored and welded back on, one to go.
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In the past whenever I bought a jeep and changed the tranny/t-case fluid it has always been either black, brown, or a gush of water followed by chocolate milkshake. To say the least I was very surprised when I dumped the fluid and it was the color of honey I guess there’s a first time for everything.
First, the D-300 4.1 kit directions are lacking compared to the D-20 3.15. The 20 kit gives you step by step instructions to disassemble the case the 4.1 kit doesn't.
Some of the tools you will need are:
3/16" allen socket
1 1/8” socket
Gear puller
Press (nice to have but not needed)
Dial indicator
External snap ring pliers
File or grinder
I did an initial degreasing and prepped for tear down.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2324.jpg)
The gears and case look good.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2325.jpg)
Empty case.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2328.jpg)
All the bearings and needle bearings look good so I plan to reuse them.
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Although the case and gears are in good shape it was my impression this D-300 hadn’t been rebuilt. When I pressed out the input shaft there were no shims between the bearing and shaft shoulder. Seems whoever rebuilt it failed to reinstall them. These particular shims have not so much to do with end play as it has to do with spacing between the rear output gear and snap ring.
Anyways, below is the input shaft, shaft support, bearing, with old and new rear output gears.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2430.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2431.jpg)
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Before painting I had to notch the side of the case to gain access for the larger aftermarket intermediate gear. I placed the bottom cover gasket in place as a guide so I wouldn’t notch into the sealing surface.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2426.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2432.jpg)
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This t-case build will be shelved until the shim arrive (about 2 weeks).
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While searching for the input shaft shims I found most were on back order and high priced (over $10 per shim) so I looked on dabay and found some for a $1 each. The shipping date was about 2 weeks, a week longer then the others.
New old stock (NOS) shims from Spicer that traveled half way around the world and back to my home.
Volken was surprisingly easy to deal with.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2466.jpg)
New 4.1 gears installed
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2510.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2511.jpg)
Overall the swap was straight forward with patience and attention to detail the job is fairly easy. First, the advance adapter’s D300 4.1 kit instructions are absolutely worthless which is a surprise because their D20 3.15 installation instructions I used last year for my 20 case were excellent. I instead used Lomax 4.1 kit installation instructions that were easy to follow.
If I had a choice between AA or Lomax on 4.1 kits I would choose Lomax for a couple reasons. First the AA came with no directions (let qualified mechanic install gears) and the price, as of today the AA kit sells for $705 and the Lomax at $450. The AA kit I installed came as an extra on a Jeep deal.
FYI,
Torque specs Ft-lbs
Bottom cover bolts = 20
Cover plate bolts = 35
Output yoke nuts = 120
Bearing caps = 35
Shift fork set screws = 15
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" Its Istanbul Not Constantinople"
its amazing how things like that work.
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t-case looks great chuck ! i see a 360 c.i. making its way into this rig :chaingun:
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Thanks for the comments,
When I was under the Jeep tonight I noticed the passenger side motor mount was V8 which suggests it originally came with a 304. Seems a good candidate for a 360.
Buttoned the case up tonight
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2513.jpg)
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(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2507.jpg)
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Oops….
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2522.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2523.jpg)
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WTF !!! :o
Was that thing hanging halfway out of the garage when the door came crashing down..?
You gone an done it now...... Details because there must be a plan (you did think this through right..lol)
K
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Hmm Scrambler stretch?
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I did not see that coming... Can't wait.
CJ 5 1/2
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I decided to do the cut 2 days after you stopped by.
I’m trying to mimic the factory version. All the factory did was add 20” to a CJ5 just behind the door. The wheel base for a 56-71 CJ6 is 101 and 104 from 72-75 (longer nose). I'll be at 105.
That’s all fine when your converting an early 5 with a straight c-channel frame makes life a bit easier. The later 5’s have a boxed frame that bows out after the front rear spring hangers. I would have liked to cut the frame at a 45 degree angle in different directions for more weld but there isn’t more then 2” of straight frame between the hangers. So I had to make a straight cut. On the early 5’s you can slide a long piece of c-channel inside the existing channel for added support that’s not an option the later frames.
I plan to bend up some 3/16 (outside channel) and 1/8 (inside channel) to match the factory frame then plate.
I rather do the extra work then comp cut my 5 that way I can still drive it down the road for a beer run.
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NICE
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Great Idea! That 20 inches will make plenty of room for beer.
Keep up the good work Chuck.
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nice ;D cant wait to see the updates on this build!
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:D 8)
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seeing a nice 5 cut like that makes me wanna :'(
..but knowing what it will turn into in the hands of the Posman has got me all giggles :D
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Chop it up ! Now I know why you need that full sheet of 16 gauge... ;D
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I understand your thoughts Rich, but after stripping it down I found the rear fixed panel was pushed in I'm guessing the PO backed into a tree which can happen when carrying a large spare tire. The results were the driver side quarter panel was kicked out a 1/4". Also if you take a close look at where I cut the passenger side door area you can see a white line that is a bondo crack so it has some spots of thick mud. Besides those issues the tub is in decent shape.
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love it!
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:saw:
:D
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Brilliant
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Thanks for the comments,
Mitch, its more like this....
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/smilies/beer.gif) :saw:
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ill be doing this :booze: while you do more of this :saw:
excited to watch this thread - cause I know how you work :)
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Removed the rear section of tub and dropped the fuel tank.
Before someone beats me to it, there was a guy awhile back on the forum with an innovative idea of building wood skid plates. So it got me thinking, do you think using a piece of white oak with grade 8 bolts and professional grade glue would hold the frame together?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2524.jpg)
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i think grade 8 would be a little overkill in that proposed layout.
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Chuck..be careful, make sure to use the exterior wood glue, or you could run into trouble.
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It has to work!!
Look, this guy used wood on his rig!
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i238/HeyzipupyourflyYJ/fall%20crawl%202010/CopyofIMGP0058.jpg)
And he's wearing a helmet. He looks like a legit hardcore wheeler to me.
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That has to be my all time best Jeep pic, :cheers:
Paul at first quality metals bent up some steel for me turned it over in 24 hours.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2529.jpg)
Used some compressed air to clean out the inside of the frame, I blew out a nice size mouse nest.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2530.jpg)
I had plans to weld up the frame this weekend but after I mocked up the frame I found a twist on the right rail. Last week when I cut the rail it popped because of tension so I figured the twist may happen kinda typical with an old CJ boxed frame. At that point I figured it was best to stop and plan my next step so I decided to go run a few miles and drink some beer.
I wanted to tack all 4 points then weld but have decided now to weld up the left rail and use it as a brace along with a farm jack to align the right rail.
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Chuck, I am really looking forward to this next step in your project. I was astonished to open the thread a few days ago and discover that you had chopped your CJ5 in half! I always enjoy observing the quality work you do, and hope that my skills will develop and result in such clean looking results. :)
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Thanks for the kind words. Tim, your on the fast track with your fab/building skills it’s obvious to me and I’m sure everyone else that views your build thread. Your at a good age were starting your own fab/restoration business would fit you well.
As a group NEJZ has some very talented and knowledgeable members, for its size there is always something going on in the build forum. A forums strength is in its tech and build sections.
Last night Jerry K came over to help me align the outer 3/16” c-channel which was a big help. With the Jeep still attached to the suspension there were so many variables, tire inflation, axles, springs, and garage floor pitch it added to the challenge. To add to the amusement the jeep business on the cape (Dr. something) who welded the spring perches on the rear axle failed to center it correctly and it was heavy to the driver side.
After a gazillion measurements, mocking and re-mocking the frame we finally hit the nail on the head and tacked the channels. I will burn the outer channel and tack and burn the inner channel sometime within the next few days.
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Tonight I finished the first phase of the project by welding up the frame 20” longer it now stands 105”. Technically it should be 104” but it has a set of 1” longer RE yj front springs.
I welded a plate inside the 3/16 c-channel for added support. I welded inside the existing boxed frame as far as I could reach.
I won’t make excuses for my welding it is what it is.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2535.jpg)
Tacked the inner 1/8 c-channel in place
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2536.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2540.jpg)
On the outside of the frame I used an oval shape 3/16” plate to match thickness of the outer channel.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2542.jpg)
On the inside I used a diamond shape 1/8” plate again to match the c-channel thickness. I had to bend the 4 front plates to fit the curve of the frame. There wasn’t a need to bend the 4 rear plates. You can’t tell by the pic but the frame bends in at the mid point of the plate.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2544.jpg)
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8)
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nice, this looks like it might go faster than I had expected?
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It’s seems every build I do there is a surprise waiting to be found. My 77 CJ5 build I found intact a large walnut inside the frame. A squirrel wouldn’t fit into a CJ frame opening so was it a mouse on steroids or possibly a gerbil? And why didn’t he eat it? The surprise I found in this build was when I removed the clutch and found a ball bearing inside the cavity behind the pilot bushing. WTF, it didn’t accidentally fall in, did someone have too much time on there hands and tried to toss a hole in one and forgot to remove it?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2545.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2546.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2547.jpg)
This is what happens when you have too much of a t-case drop.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2549.jpg)
Luk clutch
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2548.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2550.jpg)
I wrestled with the tranny and t-case far too long before I decided to get some longer shank bolts and use them for guides. Slid right in with the longer bolts. Once in I install the original size bolts.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2552.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2551.jpg)
105
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2553.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2554.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2555.jpg)
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very interesting!
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That is awesome!!
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This is going to be awesome- make me want to cut mine.
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very inspiring Chuck.
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love that color blue. I want to trade you 1/2 tub for my full green tub :)
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Thanks for the comments,
After doing the tranny/t-case/clutch swap I came to the conclusion the PO was throwing parts at issues as they came up without trouble shooting the cause of those issues. I noticed new motor and tranny mounts, yet 3 of the 4 tranny to b-housing bolts were finger tight. Granted he wouldn’t have known about the ball bearing but he should have inspected the b-housing to motor and tranny to b-housing bolts before and after replacing the mounts. I also noticed the bellcrank was welded which indicating he had issues with it popping off another cause of improperly torqued bolts (can happen with frame flex as well)
Anyways, I torqued all bolts to specs
B-housing to engine (6 cyl) top bolts 47 ft lbs bottom bolts 61 ft lbs – (V8) 41 ft lbs
Starter 24 ft lbs
Tranny to b-housing 74 ft lbs
I’ve been doing well selling parts off this Jeep. I already sold the 3 seats and center console, clutch, b-housing, tranny, shocks, and lift springs. Sunday a friend stopped by and prepaid for the shocks and springs with some cash and beer.
Removed the shocks, springs, and axles last night.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2557.jpg)
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i assumed the suspension may stay the same, are we wuntun'n it?
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Yes, staying with leafs. I sold the big U 4.5 RE lift springs and plan to install stock rear CJ and front stock yj springs. Both 5 packs going soa. The rear will see a 1” cut HD 60 with bored spindles and 35 spline shafts. The front 60 with be cut down 4” on the long side.
I’m still undecided on the size off-road rims I would like to use (17, 16.5, or 16). I have a set each of stock h1, 16”, 16.5”. I have a set of 16.5 37” 12.5 tires I plan to use for road only. I’m leaning towards the 38 12.5 tsl bias or possibly 39.5 for off road only.
I only have 2 mag inserts for the 4 h1’s so I would need to purchase 2 inserts, centers, and rings (about $500) so I’m not sure that’s the least expensive way to go. Going stock 17” or 16” with DIY beadlock is something I may do unless I find a set of beadlocks at a good price. I’ve looked around for 17” h2 but the ones I’ve seen were too high priced.
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Let me know if you want to get rid of the BFGs and steel wheels on there now. 33s of 35s?
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Yes, I was planning to sell them as well 5 - 35 12.5
4 are in good shape as you know, the 5th has never touched the ground.
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When using a tranny adapter most times there needs to be modification to the stock skid plate. The T-18 to D-300 has a 3” adapter which moves the tranny mounting point reward on a 76-79 skid plate. The same adapter on an 80-86 CJ with the original skid plate should work without modification as the T-5/D300 is the same length as the T-18/D300 combo.
In my situation I had a choice of modifying the tranny mounting points or drill new holes in the skid for the frame rails. I decided to make a template of the frame rail holes and drill new mounting holes on the skid. All the holes lined up on the first shot with just a bit of file work needed.
Also, CT’s twin sister stopped by to drop off my new shafts. I ordered 1541H alloy 35 spline shafts that came with a one year warranty for $110 each I felt they were good enough for my needs. When I opened the packing slip it read “our supplier shipped 4340 chromoly axles, so these axles have a lifetime warranty”.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/misc%20stuff/upsgirl03.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2574.jpg)
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While working on my Jeep I noticed my garden tractor feeling a little unappreciated and decided to leave some oil spots on the garage floor in protest so I thought best to spend some time with it.
The oil leak turned out to be the left axle seal so I decided to replace both sides while I was there. The hubs were rusted on and took some time to remove but I eventually got them off.
The left axle’s woodruff key was frozen in the keyway. I put a block of wood under the axle for support and used a brass drift's handle held horizontal on the edge of the key and hit it with a 2 pound hammer (the drift was bending vertical). It took some heavy blows while shooting some Kroil in after each wack. The passengerside wasn't much trouble.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2564.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2565.jpg)
I cleaned the shaft and inside the hub with emery cloth and filed the shaft where the set screw had left its mark. I used a small file that fit perfectly to clean the hub's keyway. I coated the shaft and hub with transmission fluid and the hub slid on without issue.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2566.jpg)
I cleaned the deck and sharpen the blades as well.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2567.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2568.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Wheel%20Horse/DSCN2573.jpg)
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thats the messiest i have seen your floor ever. please get back to working on the jeep :)
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Damn Posi, when you do something you go all out!
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Good form chuck.. 8)
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Thanks for the comments,
I searched for a rear disc brake conversion kit for my rear 60 and found they sold for $300 and up so I thought I’d put together my own kit. I found the caliper brackets on dabay for under $30 everything else I found at flaps with a 20% discount. I’ll list the part numbers as it may save others a lot of time.
Short brake hose from a chevette # H36847 $8
K-20 rotor #YH141049 $31
K-20 caliper #18-4122 and #18-4123 $13
Pads #MKD52 $18
I paid $125 for everything a $175 savings, hopefully someone else will be able to benefit as well.
I talked to a couple vendors that sold disc brake kits about using the original studs and they said they would work but I felt the K-20 rotors were too thick. The knurl on the lug wasn’t making enough contact with the hub for my liking so I bought new ones with a longer shoulder.
#610-148 - 81 dodge ramcharger w/o locking hubs 16 for $25
Thread: 1/2-20
Knurl Dia.: .625"
Length: 1-15/16"
Shoulder Length: 1"
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nice work on the mower...sometimes its nice to do something else when in so deep in a project like the 6
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Thanks Andrew,
I had to clean up 5 of the 6 rear frame body mounts. The PO had a 1” body lift professionally installed, the frame mounts were toast so they hammered the rotted ends over to form a circle to help hold the polly mounts.
New frame body mounts are available for purchase or you can repair them yourself.
I straighten the frame mounts.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2582.jpg)
Cut the unwanted
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2584.jpg)
Welded in some new 3/16”
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2588.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2589.jpg)
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nice!
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just simply beautifle. wish i could do some welding like that ;)
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Thanks guys,
Bored the spindles .22 to except the 1.5 35 spline shafts and shorten the tubes .5 a side.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2122.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2575.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2576.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2578.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2577.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2590.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2119.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2592.jpg)
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Great upgrade to the 60!! Did you do the boring yourself, or did you have someone do it for you?
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Thanks,
Did you do the boring yourself, or did you have someone do it for you?
I'm subbing it out to a friend who will do it for much less then the cost of a 1 9/16 (1.562") drill bit, a bit I would need to purchase if I was to do it myself.
For $150 he bore the spindles and shorten the tubes ½ on each side. Oh, and that friend is Steve owner of Capeway Bearing located in Plymouth, good guy and his work is of high quality.
I measured the diff ground clearance with 37’s at 12.5
Side note: no tread on the tires
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Tonight I finished the last 2 frame body mounts on the rear crossmember.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2593.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2670.jpg)
Removed the bumper/TC and added a couple coats of RE.
Side note: I didn't paint the shock mounts chances are I'll remove them.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2673.jpg)
I also repaired a 14” section of the frame where the c-channels meet caused by a failed factory weld.
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Chuck, I would love to post about how imrpressed I am, but I expect nothing less than perfection from you. Sorry
:rockon:
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I am still impressed.
If I did one build in your style, I would probably never do another one again :D
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Far from perfection, but thanks guys I appreciate the kind words.
Installed the rear stock springs and axle. I had some spring plates that I believe came from an old 70 with 2 ¼ width springs so I elongated the holes to work with my 2 ½ springs.
I centered the axle and set the pinion for a standard DS and came up with 25 degrees so I’ll go with a cv shaft. I pointed the diff at the t-case then dropped it 2 degrees. I won’t weld the perches until I have the jeep loaded.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2692.jpg)
Started on the front 60
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2676.jpg)
Funny thing with the starters, a guy needed one so I told him to stop by and grab one. I always like to test them before I hand them out. The first one didn’t work so I grabbed another one, that didn’t work so I grabbed another one….. you get the idea from the pic I tried 7 before I found a good one. Before I stored them I test them and they were all good so yes used starters will go bad if left on a shelve too long. Although I didn’t think that many would be bad. Anyways, I now have more shelve space.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2677.jpg)
Someone has been here recently.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2678.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2679.jpg)
Yes, yes they have………
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2680.jpg)
I’ll dress it up and take down the height of the weld if need be and call it good.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2682.jpg)
Slicing and dicing…
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2684.jpg)
1/2” wall, that’s what they make plate armor with.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2685.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2686.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2687.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2688.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2689.jpg)
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8)
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Looks good chuck!
If i ever finish my build and for some odd reason want to build something else i will do it as a frame off.
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Thanks!
I cut/unbolted front end part to prepare for a shackle reversal.
Dr Wheels self proclaimed as one of the top jeep builders in New England preformed the following mods installed the rear axle, 4.5 lift, body mounts, steering box, front and rear bumpers.
As mentioned in previous posts the rear axle wasn’t center correctly and was misaligned to the driver side.
The frame body mounts were rotted so rather then replace or repair they hammer the rotten mount end to hold the poly mounts.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2559.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2582.jpg)
Below you will notice the steering box bracket doesn’t sit level because they failed to install a shim
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2697.jpg)
Below is my project 5 where you can see the shim I install to keep the bracket level.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1977%20CJ5%20build/DSCN2029.jpg)
The front bumper with tow points is a clear safety issue. To add, the misaligned front bumper is mounted with 3/8” bolts on the top.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2694.jpg)
Because of the combination of lift height (4.5) and a tranny/t-case that was never meant to be installed in a CJ5 the rear spring perches were welded in a way to point the rear pinion almost vertical. The pinion bearing seized from lack of lube and blew the gears. A 2 dollar part would have saved the bearing and gears.
Anyways, all is stripped except the front rear maineye brackets.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2695.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2700.jpg)
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wow - noted! Thanks for posting up. Do you have an eta on when you will be abusing your hard work in the woods?
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I want it on the road by August 9th cage or not.
Once the cage is in the abusing starts.
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so we may see this at the BBQ? :D :D
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The only thing out of my control is waiting for parts. My long side shaft is out being cut/re-spline and their on vacation so I won't see that for awhile. Waiting on parts from: ballistic, moore, and parts Mike but I have plenty to do until they come in......
Is the 9th a pipe dream.......maybe, but I'm working on it.
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The only thing out of my control is waiting for parts. My long side shaft is out being cut/re-spline and their on vacation so I won't see that for awhile. Waiting on parts from: ballistic, moore, and parts Mike but I have plenty to do until they come in......
Is the 9th a pipe dream.......maybe, but I'm working on it.
i ilke to hear that!! i am starting on mine this weekend!! nice work chuch ( as usual )
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Thanks,
I bounced around working on different rigs over the weekend. Two of them were on opposite ends of the spectrum one having 24” of ground clearance and the other 4 ½”.
I performed a tune-up on the engine pictured below, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, and timing. Setting the timing was interesting I had to crawl under the rig to get an opportunity to see the timing mark. I say opportunity because the notch on the pulley couldn’t be viewed from any spot and still have the scale pointer in view so I ran a mark to the harmonic balancer. I did enjoy tuning the carbs I found them easy to work on. The only thing I wasn’t able to do was balance the carbs which I’ll do once the uni-syn balancing tool I ordered last night comes in. I can balance twin carbs on a motorcycle using a vacuum line and some oil but I got the balancing tool for $15 so I’ll wait.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2707.jpg)
Installing driveshaft u-joints on the above rig was also interesting. Most driveshafts have u-joints on either end with splines closest to the u-joint at the tranny/t-case. This driveshaft had a flange at the pinion, then u-joint, shaft, u-joint, and then splines. To add I had to slide the shaft into a long dark tranny tunnel and somehow with great accuracy slide the driveshaft splines onto the tranny splines.
I first tried masking tape to hold the spline from flopping around (splines are beyond the u-joint). I figured the tape would fly off the first time it ran down the street. The first attempted didn’t work and the tape didn’t hold the splines and u-joint straight enough. My second attempted I used a long dowel tape to the shaft and that did the trick.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2711.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2713.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2712.jpg)
An internet beer for the first to guess what rig this is
Seeing I had all my tools out for tune-up I installed a new set of points and condenser on my Ren2
I also removed the front rear maineye brackets on my project 6. I found the easiest way to remove the two rivets were to heat them then use a air chisel.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2701.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2702.jpg)
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looks like a brit car? mg, austin healey???
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You got it! 1970 MG Midget 1275 engine. Working under this thing is a tight squeeze.
One internet beer for you!
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/pic/beerboot.jpg)
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Chuck, perhaps I missed it, but I was wondering, who is cutting the spines in the shaft?
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Mitchell, I dropped it off June 28th then he went on vacation. He's back today and I'm waiting on a return call (he hasn't touched them yet).
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You got it! 1970 MG Midget 1275 engine. Working under this thing is a tight squeeze.
One internet beer for you!
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/pic/beerboot.jpg)
haha thxs, my dad has got a mg midget, once you have seen one and worked on one you never forget
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The MG's are cool cars, I'd love one.
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The MG's are cool cars, I'd love one.
Got one for ya ;)
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Posi's next project?
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She’s back……
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/misc%20stuff/upsgirl01.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2719.jpg)
Waiting on parts from: ballistic, more, and parts Mike
Parts Mike and more parts are in…..
Still waiting on Ballistic parts ordered on July 5th 10 days and counting.
Thanks goes out to Timmy (twisty) for the help with parts suppliers and info on the front 60.
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are those spring hangers? more info.
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Probably for the outboarded (sp?) springs for the 60's
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No need to outboard on this rig I cut down the front 60.
The front spring hangers is for a shackle reversal. I began plans to make my own front hangers but I'm running short on time so I ordered them from m.o.r.e. They sell a full kit for about $300 I bought the half kit for $200. The half kit comes with 2 beefy 1/4" hangers, 4 - 1/4" spacer plates for a winch, 2 bushing, and fasteners. All I have to do is drill a hole through the frame and add 2 bushings for the rear shackles. They also sell just the front hangers for $160 but I thought for $40 it was money well spent for the extra parts.
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I jumped around on different rigs again this weekend (family vehicles). I worked on a 2.2L 5S-FE engine with a stalling issue I checked all the normal stuff and everything checked out fine so I decided to clean the throttle body (TB) and idle air control valve (IAC).
I warmed the engine then removed the snorkel. About an 1” inside the TB (bottom right) you can see a small inlet that leads to the IAC which I’m guessing is filled with carbon.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2742.jpg)
I sprayed some seafoam deep creep in the TB and down the hole that leads to the IAC. I let the IAC soak for about 20 mins while I cleaned the TB and choke plate.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2743.jpg)
Once I was satisfied it was clean enough I started the engine and ran it at 2000 rpm
Got carbon?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2744.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2745.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2746.jpg)
It was a great smoke show that lasted about 10 mins and filled the neighborhood. I ran it on the highway to clean the rest out. The car idles and runs good now.
I welded a new sway bar bracket on the MG along with some electrical work. The soft top was in rough shape and a new one cost $300 so it turned into a family project. My son picked up some marine grade vinyl and Diana did the needle work. It’s not the best soft top but for $15 total it's good enough.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2749.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2759.jpg)
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It was time to do a hydro steer and I was undecided on which route I wanted to go with my box. I had a new AGR box and I was hesitant to drill and tap it when I could use it on another project so I did a search in my shop and found a 70’s box with pitman arm that looked in good shape. I narrowed my choice down to subbing it out to WT offroad (redneck ram) or tap it myself. Jason M offered me tips (thanks) on drilling and tapping without disassembling the box. At the end curiosity got the best of me I never rebuilt a steering box so I thought this would be a good time.
I marked the center position, 2 turns in either direction.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2722.jpg)
Removed the lock nut and noted the thread count
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2723.jpg)
Adjuster plug removed
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2724.jpg)
Side cover removed
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2727.jpg)
Drilled and tapped, hit both holes dead on.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2732.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2729.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2733.jpg)
I inspected the worm shaft and it was in good shape for 35 year old box no pitting.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2739.jpg)
Same goes for the rack piston
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2740.jpg)
The kit runs about $25
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2730.jpg)
Exploded view
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2738.jpg)
Adjuster plug installed and torqued
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2750.jpg)
Rack pinion installed, note: you can see the gully in the bottom hole the piston needs to be rotated a bit to move the gully edge to the left so the balls drop in.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2751.jpg)
16 balls installed in the piston. There are 12 chrome and 12 darker balls that have to be alternated while installing. The chrome balls are 9/32 and the darker balls are .001 larger. The smaller chrome balls allow the oil to pass.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2752.jpg)
The last 6 balls have to be installed in the ball guide. You can use assembly lube although I was able to install them without the lube first try.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2753.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2755.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2757.jpg)
Torque specs all in FT LBS
Side cover bolts 40
Rack piston end plug 50
Return guide clamp bolts 6
Pitman shaft adjustment nut 33
Pitman arm nut 185
Ajuster plug locknut 85
Also installed the tank and skid plate
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2756.jpg)
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nice work Posi, your attention to detail is unmatched. so i take it your not going the fuel cell route, any reason? i would have figured extra clearance would be needed in the back to clear the pumpkin but looking at the pic, looks like you have plenty of room.
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Thanks Derick – the rear 60 doesn’t have a huge pumpkin and the after market fuel skid plate recesses back a bit. The measurements I took lead me to believe it won’t hit the skid plate. As for ground clearance it’s a 15 gallon tank with a 3/16” skid plate if it hangs me up it’s something I’m willing to sacrifice for extra cargo space.
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So when can I buy a rig from you?
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I have a 2a sitting in my garage for you.
I edited my steering box build post to add torque specs for the steering box.
Still waiting on parts from Ballistic 22 days and waiting.
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Still waiting on parts from Ballistic 22 days and waiting.
Just received a tracking # should arrive Aug 3
I used the July 4th 20% discount so the price was right on the parts I ordered.
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Still waiting on parts from Ballistic 22 days and waiting.
Just received a tracking # should arrive Aug 3
I used the July 4th 20% discount so the price was right on the parts I ordered.
If it makes you feel any better, the stuff I ordered from Ruff stuff during the freeDOM sale just came in yesterday, I placed the order on the 5th
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Unless I missed something I'm on my last repair to dr.wheels installations. They stripped out 4 captured nuts holding the front frame spring hangers. The bolts should be 7/16” it appears they attempted to repair them by stuffing 1/2” bolts in the stripped nuts then welding the spring hangers onto the frame. The bolts were cosmetic only because they couldn’t be torqued down (just there for show). They also cross threaded the new steering box HD bracket. I repaired 2 using heli-coils and 2 I drilled out and re-tapped. Still have one left to finish.
When I removed the front 60 gears I noticed there were side shims on the outside of the carrier bearings (should only be on the inside on a D-60). When I removed the cap bolts the gears fall out. After removing the shims there was 1/4” play at one end. My guess is that someone replaced the original case with a case that was meant for other then 4:10 gears (shorter). Anyways the ring and pinion look good and being a front axle I’ll go with using the proper shimming to take up the space. I shouldn’t have an issue with it.
I had mentioned I would like this project ready for the BBQ but in the real world I will be lucky to have it ready for Fall Crawl.
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sorry to hear about your bumps in progress. Whats funny is, if I opened the diff cover and nothing immediately fell out - I would just have said, LOOKS GOOD! and buttoned it back up. :D Simply because I'd have no idea what its supposed to look like. Good catch.
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Chuck, I had an absolute blast checking out your build the other night! thanks for having us.
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Checking for vacuum leaks,
Air should enter the carb to mix with fuel and that allows the engine to run like it’s supposed too. Occasionally you will end up with a leak where air enters where it shouldn’t and when that happen it doesn’t pick up fuel and the engine runs poorly. Like the engine below it ran rough at 3500rpms but ran great at idle I suspected a vacuum leak.
A typical way to check for leaks would be to use an aerosol spray i.e. carb cleaner or starter fluid. While the engine’s at idle spray the suspected areas if there were a leak the engine would ingest the spray and the RPM would change and you would have found the spot.
The only problem with this is in recent years a lot of these spray products have been reformulated and don’t work as good as they used too. Something that does work good and what I use is propane (do not light).
It didn’t take long to find the source of the leak a bad gasket between the intake and sheetmetal backing plate. I install all knew gaskets (6) and readjusted the carbs. The engine runs much better with a quick response using the skinny peddle.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2763.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2765.jpg)
I also swapped out the control box and Lucas generator for a gm alternator I had in my shop.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2764.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Blair%20s%20MG%20Midget/DSCN2776.jpg)
Swapped out a couple axle shafts as well.
06 Rubicon
2 caliper bolts, 4 retaining plate bolts, and a slide hammer to remove the race.
Note: the Dana replacement shaft (on right) has the sealed bearing (race built in) I purchased the shaft from Jeff @ Crown.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeep%20Parts/DSCN2773.jpg)
Front CV joint/axle shaft with a 5S-FE engine. The swap was fairly straight forward after you remove all the necessary bolts and items you will need to evenly pry the shaft out because it has a c-clip that won’t allow it to come out any other way. Installing it I used a block of wood and tapped it in. Change the transaxle diff fluid while I was in there.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeep%20Parts/DSCN2774.jpg)
Dave (Dave07) gave me some rear yj springs awhile ago for this project (thanks).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2761.jpg)
I removed the bushings by bending over the outer sleeve inward and using a 2 pound hammer I soaked it down with kroil wasn’t much trouble.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2762.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2766.jpg)
Installed the steering box and made L-brackets out of ¼” steel to install the front bumper. Half way done with the shackle reversal just need to find locally 6” of 1.5 1.25 dom tubing (note the spacer I added for the steering box bracket).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2770.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2772.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2769.jpg)
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It’s been a standing family joke for the last month whenever I open the shop door to work on my project a family member will drive up with a broken car. I don’t mind at all working on their stuff as family comes first before my projects. It’s been non-stop, valve adjustments, carb tuning, TP sensor, shocks, AT sensor, distributor rebuild, points/condenser, 2 front coil springs, water pump, and those are on different vehicles. I spent about 4 nights tracking down a no spark issue that turned out to be a few things. The no spark was a bad rotor then a weak spark was a bad ground on the condenser and the mechanical weights sticking. The vacuum canister and plate although working hung open for a second on the return causing another issue.
Anyways, I did find time to slip in a little work on my junk.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2777.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2778.jpg)
Clearance for H1’s
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2779.jpg)
1/4” steel - toasted an angle grinder cutting these
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2780.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2785.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2783.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2786.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2787.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2788.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2792.jpg)
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8)
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Nice work Chuck!
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oooh....I see what you did there, looking real nice.
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beef knuckle
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The coaching season is over, back to work.
Finished the other knuckle
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2836.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2831.jpg)
Valspar ford blue
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2864.jpg)
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bling bling
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Yesssssss. I've been dying to see this build updates.
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noise! time for a cage?
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noise! time for a cage?
Sometime this winter
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Completed some family projects since my last post and worked on my build when I had the chance. Being consistence with this thread I’ll post the family projects as it may help others.
As previously mentioned I had issues with a 99 camry stalling so I cleaned the throttle body (TB) and idle air control valve (IACV) on the engine using seafoam it worked for the stalling issue although never got rid of the high idle on cold startups. The IAC tested good at 19.5 ohms between the terminals.
I removed the TB and IAC valve and gave it a thorough cleaning. I supplied 12v to the IAC and the motor engaged. I installed the TB and IAC with new gaskets and torqued the bolts to specs.
The first cold start it jump to 1100RPM then climbed to 1800rpm and stayed there for about three mins before it came back down (should be 1200 to 700rpms). Although engine idle improved the high idle at cold startup was still there.
The IAC is set at the factory and the Toyota tech I talked to said I shouldn’t try to adjust it. I figured I had nothing to lose so I removed the IAC again and made the adjustment. I loosen the screws and turned the plate from its full position to half way. It worked! Cold startups are within specs and the car has been running fine. Basically took up the slack from the worn coil.
IAC, you can see the seafoam doesn’t get deep enough to thoroughly clean the valve. I disassembled the unit for a good cleaning. There is a paddle inside that I removed along with the motor and coil.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2855.jpg)
This is the position from the factory I adjusted the plate half way. This is a very complicated valve. It has one vacuum line, 2 coolant lines, a motor, and a temp sensitive coil behind the plate.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2861.jpg)
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Next I worked on a 94 camry you wouldn’t think it would take long to change a water pump, right?
Except to get at the water pump I had to support the engine and remove the front engine mount, alternator, timing covers, belts, and crank pully. Of course your already knee deep so I replaced the timing belt (that hurt because I replaced it 30k ago), crank oil seal, and oil pump seal and gasket.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/99%20Camry/DSCN2889.jpg)
Installed new rear e-brakes shoes, rotors, calipers, and pads as well.
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94 F-350 (351 V8) this one needed multiple repairs that took some time and patients. The engine would run fine at cold start up with smooth idle and power. Once the engine warmed and idling at a stop the idle would drop to 500 to 600 rpms and ran rough for 30 second then the PCM kicks the idle to 900 and run in open loop. At that point there will be a power loss at and between 1500 to 2000 rpms.
I checked over the engine and noticed the air pump would drag occasionally in turn dropping the idle when it did. The truck would be used for plowing (if it every snows) so the air pump was removed and the belt was rerouted, proper hoses were blocked.
Took it for a test drive and had the same idle issue and power loss without the air pump drag. However, had an EGR code pop up did some test and found the EGR sensor was bad. Replaced the sensor and went for a test drive drove fine for about 30 mins then same idle issue and power loss.
At this point installed new fuel filter, plugs, cap, and rotor, wires were fairly new. Tested the coil and found it slightly below specs and replaced it.
Ran a self diagnostic test and came up with another code 172 “engine running lean”. Checked for vacuum leaks and found a couple cracked vacuum lines, repaired and went for a test drive, same engine code and idle problem and power loss.
Checked the fuel pressure at 30psi, (low but with in specs), checked the fuel regulator to be good. Pulled the IAC cleaned and reinstalled, removed the spout connector and checked the timing at 10 BTDC (factory specs), ran a test on the ignition module and tested good. Tested the coolant temperature switch (CTS), at 22degrees at 96 ohms, ran engine to normal running temps to 2.07 ohms. CTS checks out fine.
Went for a test drive…..same code and same problem. At this point I checked all but 2 of the major players that would affect lean conditions. It was the PCM which I highly doubt was the problem and the 02 sensor. I had my doubts about the 02 sensor as well because most times when their bad the PCM will go in open loop and run rich to safe guard the engine. I decided to test the 02 on the vehicle.
The 02 sensor temps have to be at or above 600 for the test and for this truck I was looking for .1-.9 volts on the reading wires. Turns out it read .001 and it was bad. I installed a new sensor and went for a test drive. The engine idled fine and had good power in all throttle positions. Good to go!
The one other thing I had to address was the fuel gauge not working properly and a fuel leak at the tank on fill ups only.
The tank was fairly new so I figured it must be a crack in the fuel hose at the top of the tank. The tank was filled so had to siphon the fuel out and drop the tank. I was disappointed when I looked at the top of the tank and noticed the person that installed the tank failed to catch all the tabs on the fuel pump lock ring causing it to leak. I removed the ring and fuel pump to test the sending unit. The unit tested fine at 22.5 empty and 145 full so my thoughts were on the float. Sure enough the float had a pin hole that filled the float with fuel giving a false reading at the guage. I had an extra sending unit for my CJ so I checked the float and it was the same exact size. All is good with the gauge and tank.
I’ll be doing the ball joints next.
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Back to my project,
I had second thoughts on using the front yj spring in my SOA setup and bought some wagon front springs from Jeff @ Crown. The wagon springs are ½ ton compared to the ¼ yj springs and their 5” longer with a 2” offset pin that will move the axle forward.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2898.jpg)
I installed new bearing, cups, and dust covers. Punch and hammer did the trick.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2907.jpg)
Cut up some bushing for the shackle reversal 1.25 ID 1.50 OD 2.5 W
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2899.jpg)
I had to drill a 1.5” hole through the frame at the correct position to install the bushing and mount the shackle. I first tried without weight on the springs and the shackle positioned at 60 degrees (top towards the rear). The best I could do with the longer wagon springs was 30 degrees before it contacted the frame body mount. I scrapped that idea and went with weight on the springs. I placed 4 - ¼” plates to gain a 1” frame to spring clearance and set the shackle at 90 degrees. I may still have to notch the frame body mount time will tell.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2908.jpg)
I had to enlarge the bottom shackle hole from 1/2” to 9/16 to fit the wagon springs.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2909.jpg)
An important part of drilling the holes was to make sure the inner hole was aligned so the bushing would pass through. I did this by installing the bushing and using a drill bit just a hair smaller then the bushing sleeve to start a pilot hole.
Found a few acorns inside the frame
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2910.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2911.jpg)
It doesn’t look centered from the angle of the shot but it is centered.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2912.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2913.jpg)
I cut some 1/8” plate for bushing support.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2915.jpg)
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looking good!
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;) nice chuck!
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Thanks guys!
Last night I welded the bushings and plates on the frame and installed the shackles with greaseable bolts. Burnt in the left spring perch as well.
The main eye, springs, and shackles are properly aligned and the shackle is sitting at 90 degrees with weight. I have the front axle bolted on supported by stands. Next I’ll install the axle shafts and outers, should be a roller soon.
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Roller FTW
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I saw this elsewhere and thought it was a good idea for protecting the grease fitting. For those who may not know this is the bearing cap that’s located at the bottom of the steering knuckle.
I had some extra tubing left over from when I made my frame bushings and cut 2 – 7/8” pieces. I decided to reuse the original 45 degree fittings because they work fine, for excess I grooved one side.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2920.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2921.jpg)
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i like that grease fitting guard. i've already broken my fitting.
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You might have seen that on my rig, Jason did that on my front Chevy knuckles
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Actually I saw it on pirate by Billa Vista some time ago.
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Have a 368 pound package coming Friday.
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Have a 368 pound package coming Friday.
tires?
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As always, looking good. I love the detail on the write ups!
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Ian, 4-39.5 17" Rockers
Thanks Dan!
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Yay Rockers!!! 8)
Posi, this is one clean looking build, nice job.
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i've been very impressed with what i've seen of this tire size.
congrats!
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Thanks for the kind words and comments,
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2947.jpg)
20 psi, free standing, 38.5" about 15” wide
When it comes to shipping tires and large items prices can and do fluctuate. I spent 2 mins on the net and about 4 mins on the phone and I saved $70 on shipping fees.
When I first talked to a salesman at pit bull tire I was told the shipping for 4 – 39.5 tires wouldn’t run me more then $200 possibly a little less but around that price.
He didn’t give me a firm price so I thought it best to check around.
Group 4x4 Buy the nearest PB dealer wanted $170 to a commercial address $220 for home delivery.
Roadrunner truck line (who eventually delivered my tires for $80 less) wanted $210
Checked online at 4WD to ship any 4 same size tires and came up with $129
When I ordered the rockers I mentioned the 4WD shipping quote and they matched it.
Next time I'll save myself 4 mins on the phone and just check 4WD first.
Hope this helps.
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Very nice Posi!! A little extra work can save a bunch of money.
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Thanks,
A few more pics
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2938.jpg)
Installed the studs by locking 2 nuts, short side down with loctite.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2939.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2940.jpg)
I torqued the steering arm to 90 ft/lbs and set the preload to 28 lbs.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2949.jpg)
Setting up the 60 wasn’t that much different then a close knuckle 25. The preload for the 25 is 12-16 lbs.
You will notice I didn’t install new prevailing nuts I got myself in a hurry to install the hub and wheel and decided to use the old ones (not recommended). I discovered Mitchell’s didn’t cut the driver side shaft down enough causing the shaft to bind when I torqued the spindle down. Shouldn’t be an issue I’ll just cut down the shaft a bit and while I’m at it install new prevailing nuts and paint the base of the spindle.
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Chuck, keep an eye on that steering knuckle preload. When you wear it in, it will loosen quickly.
H2s look killer with the PBRs.
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Thanks Tim,
To fit the h2 rims on the dodge rear 60 I had to grind 1/16” from the center hole, after grinding they were a perfect fit.
I inspected the hub bearings and races and found the PO had replaced the bearings but not the races (the inner and outer races where Timken and the bearings were SKF). Two of the races were toast so I replaced those with the bearings as a set installed new hub seals as well.
I would have had both hubs on last night but noticed the inner spindle nut was missing a pin (slides into lock washer to hold inner spindle nut) so I’ll need to grab one today.
With the added weight of the stretch and axles I thought it was best to get some really beefy shackles.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2962.jpg)
Ok, so those bite size shackles wouldn’t hold up pulling a vw bug on asphalt, but I did find some 3/4” shackles for $6 each along with other rigging and recovery products. Made in the US as well.
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/
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Tonight I cut off the stock front shock mounts and finished my tie rod.
I decided to use the stock dodge 60 tie rod (TR) I had in my shop apposed to the stock chevy 60 TR. The dodge is a beefier (1 1/4" – 1/4" wall) then the chevy (1 1/6") plus the dodge has internal threads compared to the adjustment sleeve on the chevy.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2955.jpg)
Having previously cut down my axle by 4” I had to cut down the TR that much plus factor in hi-steer offset this meant cutting off the threaded end. I didn’t have a 7/8” 18 tap to run new threads so I chose to make two cuts and weld back on the original tube end that housed the threads.
The first cut was to save the 2” of threaded tube the second cut would remove the excess tube to get the correct fit.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2959.jpg)
With the extra section removed I could now burn in the threaded end piece using a sleeve.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2963.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2965.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2966.jpg)
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(http://forum.i3d.net/attachments/offtopic-english/943183655d1251016823-happy-birthday-stormtraxx-very-nice-how-much-borat_great_success.jpg)
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:D
I spent some time cleaning up dr wheels brake work. They installed extended brake hose only to lose 3” by mounting them on top of the frame. The hard lines were new but laid out in a mess so I’m running all new hard lines.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2961.jpg)
Extended brake hose napa part # 38872 = length 25.25"
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2980.jpg)
I finished my drag link. I decided to cut the original drag link adjuster in half and weld in each end (right and left hand threads) into ends of 1” pipe.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2983.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2984.jpg)
I took some material off to make a tight fit into the pipe.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2985.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2989.jpg)
Big thanks to Jay (jaydawg) for lending me the proper tool to ream out the pitman arm and steering arm.
I used the original drag link end hole to gauge depth then taped off. (setup for pic only)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2986.jpg)
Not a lot of beef around that hole, I’ll keep an eye on it.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2987.jpg)
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nice updates....do you have an updated punch list?
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i used a waggy pitman arm lots more beef and you don't have to remove so much material
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i used a waggy pitman arm lots more beef and you don't have to remove so much material
Well, you have to remove the same amount of material, but I know what you mean. I used a wagon pitman arm on my project 5 the CJ arm was handy so that’s what I used.
nice updates....do you have an updated punch list?
Thanks, the punch list, but not limited to: rear brakes, fuel/brake lines, trac-bar, install tub and add 20” of sheetmetal, build cage, front/rear DS, install ram/cooler/lines, twin sticks, rocker/skid protection, tube fenders, paint, and wiring.
The list became a bit longer when I gave my final gear some thought. The 4.10 were fine when I was thinking of running 37’s but with the 39’s I had to address that issues which I have deciding to run a 5.13 final drive.
I decided to go with USA standard gear because of the price ($50 less a set then yukon). Standard gear is yukon except they don’t do the final lapping with a fine grit compound that helps with break-in and runs quieter/cooler. I won’t hear gear noise, if any, over the larger tires (won’t be at higher speeds as well).
Yukon/ “USA” Standard Gears are manufactured by Punjab Bevel Gears in Ghaziabad, India. I found a good price on the gears on a tip from Miguel.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2993.jpg)
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A whole new perspective
60/30
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2981.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2982.jpg)
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nice work chuck! (as usual!) O0
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Thanks again Jay!
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN2994.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN2995.jpg)
Ran fuel (3/8" feed, 5/16" return) and brake lines to the engine compartment. I went with 3/8" feed for that IF possibility. Yes, I found a use for those light fixture brackets that were hanging around my shop far too long.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN2996.jpg)
Rebuilt mc 2100.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN2970.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN2977.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN2978.jpg)
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Nice progress Chuck!! Where/how are you going to run your hydro assist ram?
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Thanks Tim,
I see a couple options I could mount the ram’s fixed end on the driverside spring plate and working end to the TR or face it the other way and mount the fixed end to the diff and working end to TR. I haven't purchased the ram yet and haven’t made a final decision on a mounting point although I’m always open to opinions.
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Typically I do my projects in my smaller shop with heat but I felt this project was better suited for my larger shop. The large shop has 8ft concrete walls and a concrete slab through the winter it stayed 10 degrees colder inside then out a bit of an icebox, it was cold, not “Timmy in the Tundra” cold, but I spent a lot of cold night out there.
Having said that last night was perfect for wrenching, opened the overhead door, lights on, warm, music, beer, and no mosquitoes. If I didn’t have to work today I would have stay out there all night wrenching.
Anyways, broken wires, wires leading to nowhere, to sum it up a hack job.
This is BULLSH!T
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN2998.jpg)
This is not
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3008.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3010.jpg)
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I thought you were going with the 258? Last minute design change?
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That original 258 v6 engine had the optional brake caliper mounted next to the PS reservoir which I didn’t like.
Kidding aside yes, it was a last min design change. My plans were to run the inline and swap it out next winter with a 360 I have in my shop. I got to thinking, if I’m going to swap in a v8 and there was a ready to drop in v8 in my project 5 now was the time to do it. I’m planning to sell my project 5 and I have a great running inline 6 to install in it.
A tip: if you’re on your own installing an AMC engine buy a 1ft piece of 7/16 threaded rod, cut in half, add a couple nuts to one end, and use them to guide the engine to the b-housing.
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dang this build is awesome....some day Id love to have a "Posi'd" CJ-5 that was a beach cruiser/grocery getter with a V-8 and a 4-speed.
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Thanks for the kind words,
I was thinking of advertising my project 5 as a buyer’s option meaning the buyer picks the engine size v8 or 6, color of choice, and any other option they liked to add kinda like buying a new vehicle. It already has 44’s axles, T-18/D-20 3.15 and no rust. I’m thinking someone down the road would be interested in that idea.
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Thanks for the kind words,
I was thinking of advertising my project 5 as a buyer’s option meaning the buyer picks the engine size v8 or 6, color of choice, and any other option they liked to add kinda like buying a new vehicle. It already has 44’s axles, T-18/D-20 3.15 and no rust. I’m thinking someone down the road would be interested in that idea.
umm....yes please.
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Caster,
The front wagon springs have a centering pin that’s 2” offset to the rear so I decided to flip them around to gain an additional 2” of WB moving the axle forward. Doing so set the knuckles at 10* positive and too much caster. I ordered a 3 piece kit of 5* shims to set the caster at 5* positive.
FYI, Stock caster
CJ 3* positive (+1*)
FSJ 4* positive (+1*)
Your in the ballpark at 4* to 7* positive for most 4x4.
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Just remember the larger the tire and the softer you run it, the further the leading edge is the more castor it "adds".
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Thanks for the comment Mark,
The only place that would matter is on-road driving. This CJ will be seeing the road, I have a set of 37” mounted on H1 rims I plan to use for the road and I run between 20-24 psi there shouldn’t be an issue for that size tire and pressure. I felt 5* positive was a happy medium.
It’s not good practice to run large tires at low pressure on the road it will add caster as previously mentioned, hard steering, and cause excessive heat buildup. Ever see some of the newer high end cars set a 10* positive, when they turn the wheel at a stand still the front end lifts up.
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Ran the fuel and brake lines
This was an old crusty fuel pump that otherwise worked as it should so I cleaned it up a bit
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3016.jpg)
Clearing the larger dizzy
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3024.jpg)
I paid $16 for an adapter to mount my mc2100. Ran 3/8” feed with plans of installing FI next winter and 5/16” return. I ran the lines to imitate a factory setup.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3017.jpg)
3/16” brake lines, I allowed for flex under the MC
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3019.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3021.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3020.jpg)
Made an aluminum bracket to mount the rear brake adjuster to the firewall, I used 7/16”OD – 3/16”ID grommets for the 2 lines running into the cab.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3022.jpg)
I purchased a panel ball valve rated at 3000 psi for a rear line lock as well.
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Nice routing with the front lines, I really like that.
While im thinking of it....are you purposely not showing a roller status pic?
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Thanks,
No intent, I typically post pics when there’s progress and focus on that area of progress. I should be starting the tub soon and will have more pics then.
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Last night I finished setting the gears in my rear 60. The numbers worked for me for this particular gear set and with a few adjustments I was good to go (I’m sure the front will be a bit more challenging because of issues with the case).
I swapped out the 4.10s for 5.13s. The case split is numerically 4.10 and down so I had a choice of finding a new case, thick cut gears, or spacer ring. I chose the spacer ring as the less expensive and quickest to my door step.
Removed the gears and stamped the machine face of the diff and caps (they must go on in the same position they came off).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3025.jpg)
Installed the spacer ring
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3035.jpg)
My initial backspacing (BL) was .024, rule of thumb for every .010 the carrier moves .007
I installed .020 behind the ring gear side to move the ring gear closer to the pinion and removed the same amount from the opposite side. This gave me a .010 BL
What I’m trying to achieve is a marking slit between the face (top) and flank (root), as you can see the carrier still needs to move closer.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3039.jpg)
I added .005 to the ring gear side and removed the same amount from the opposite side.
I’m calling this good.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3042.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3045.jpg)
I checked the BL in 4 spots and pattern in 2 spots. BL is .007, pinion preload 10 inch lbs.
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The tub is worse then it looks. The rear panel is pushed in I’m guessing from the PO backing into a tree with a rear mounted tire so the tub isn’t squire. I’ll do what I can to make it right and at the same time keep in mind the intended use for this rig.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3048.jpg)
I removed the taillights, side markers, wiring, and prepped for paint. I had some Rust Encapsolator left over from a previous job so I used it on the undercarriage.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3053.jpg)
As you can see in the previous pics I cut off what was left of the two hat channels so I mounted the tub using the four remaining body mounts.
The tub is full of bondo 1/8” thick not sure what the body person was thinking when a skim coat was all that was needed.
Need to pick up some sheetmetal then I can start piecing this together. I plan to use 16g on the floor and 18g on side panels.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3055.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3056.jpg)
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8) 8) 8)
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I received a call from a guy who asked if I’d be willing to work on his 1948 Jeepster. He told me his father bought the car new from the dealer and gave it to him when he was 17 (he is now 61). It’s been in the family ever since and they lived all but 10 years in California. The car is rust free and still has the undercoating on the brake lines.
http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2005/12/01/hmn_feature23.html
Anyways, the guy told me he had his mechanic work on it, he installed a new starter at $260 (yes they cost that much $220-$260). When it didn’t start he installed a new battery, when that wasn’t the answer he stopped working on it.
I could tell the car meant a lot to him and his family so I decided to take a look at it. My first thought was to test the starter when I arrived I bench tested the starter and found it was good. The older vehicles came with a foot starter switch with a trigger on the starter I’m guessing he failed to engage the trigger when he tested it, if at all.
Cutting to the chase, I removed the new starter installed the perfectly working old one, gave the engine a compete tune-up and still wouldn’t fire. Turns out a small rubber washer between the distributor housing and the post lock nut seen better days and the nut was grounding out the distributor. I installed a nylon washer and it fired up, needless to say the guy was extremely happy he told me the last time he had it running was over 4 years ago. I’ve been working on it a few nights a week changing fluids, brakes, and such.
Back to my project,
The weld on rear disc brackets I bought off dabay didn’t work out so well wasn’t even close (their meant for welding onto the axle tube).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3061.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3060.jpg)
Gave some bolt-on brackets a try.
I had to make them fit but after grinding the bracket plus the spacers they were good to go.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3067.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3069.jpg)
The alternator I wanted to use had a single belt pulley I had an extra 2 belt pulley so I swapped it over.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3057.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3058.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3081.jpg)
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8)
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Previous pic: the alternator I had never came with the proper 3.5” spacer so I cut down a 3/8” pipe nipple. I only cut one end (note the threads) makes for a good spacer.
Purchased new PS lines, haven’t clocked the distributor yet.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3047.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3082.jpg)
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as always Chuck, purely F-in awesome.
any pics of the 48?
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Thanks John,
I asked if he mined me taking a couple pics, he seemed hesitant for whatever reason, I respected that so I put the camera away.
Later he told me he felt bad about it and would send me a link to one that looks like his. ;D
I'll be heading down his place to take him out for his first test drive in 4 years. Then I'll remove the carb take it home and rebuild it. I guess he likes my work, he set aside a budget to have me come down every month (year round) to make sure everything in working order and general maintenance/upkeep.
I'll be rebuilding my first automatic OD this winter.
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Finished pluming the rear brakes used early 80’s front Chevy Cavalier hoses and bent up some brackets.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3086.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3085.jpg)
Look over the engine bay wiring and figured I’d clean it up a bit.
I removed the engine wire harness
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3065.jpg)
Not good.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3064.jpg)
Decided to keep going so I pulled the dash and cleaned up the wiring there as well.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3070.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3068.jpg)
Laid out the engine bay and cut out what wasn’t needed.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3083.jpg)
This is what I removed from the engine bay and passenger compartment.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3087.jpg)
The new engine bay harness.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3088.jpg)
While I had the dash out I decided to fill the ten extra holes that were drilled by the PO.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3089.jpg)
Before I did I added 2 more holes.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3090.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3091.jpg)
I used a copper heat sink backing and filled the holes by starting on the edge of the hole working in. You can use a washer as well.
Minus three holes
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3092.jpg)
Ready for prime and top coat.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3093.jpg)
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If you need the inside side of the bulkhead wiring haness for a cj, I think I have one, pretty clean too.
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Thanks for the offer John, I cleaned up the wiring so I’m good there.
Heater hose, there isn’t much to installing them, a couple things to think about when you swap a 360 into a CJ. The FSJ water pump outlet that goes to the heater core inlet is 7/8”. The FSJ heater core inlet is 3/4" the CJ’s inlet is 5/8”, both have 5/8” outlets. The larger inlet hose is designed to cause a restriction at the heater core so the core has constant fluid. The dealership discontinued the heater hose with 2 different sized ends and aftermarket only comes in one size.
See where this is going, when swapping a 360 into a CJ you’re going from 7/8” outlet down to 5/8” inlet that’s a lot of looseness on the 5/8” end.
My remaned water pump has the 7/8” outlet feeding to a 5/8” inlet to correct this I simply bought 3' of 7/8” hose and cut a small piece of 5/8” hose to install over the heater core inlet then slid the 7/8” hose over it. I never had an issue doing it this way and find it easiest.
Now it’s time to piece the tub together. I first had to deal with the rear of the tub it was pushed in I’m assuming from backing into a tree looks like the mounted spare tire pushed in the rear panel a good 2”. This caused the tub’s sides to push out by 1/2” as well.
I repaired the rear panel by using two 1/4" pieces of angle clamped on the outside and cut a (2 1/4” x 49”) 1/4” steel on the inside the clamping force the panel out. I then welded the inside piece.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3101.jpg)
Not final fitment
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3100.jpg)
This before pic doesn’t make it look too bad but it was pushed in a good 2”.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3098.jpg)
Not perfect but good enough for me. Pulling out the rear panel pushed the side penal inward where they belong.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3103.jpg)
I have family commitments for the next several days I won’t get back to this project until next week.
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Started my progression into bodywork, I wanted to get a straight edge to align the side panels but the 3/16” of bondo wouldn’t give me a good edge so it had to come off.
Yup, I did say 3/16” thick bondo sad thing it didn’t need to be that way the panels weren’t bad.
It took me a few hours to chip and wire wheel it down to clean metal.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3114.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3113.jpg)
I had to rebuild the body mounts and add support for the added tub length. I used 1/8” 1.5 x 3” tube.
Fitted, still have to weld.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3117.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3118.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3115.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3116.jpg)
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I needed a metal brake for bending the floor center tunnel and edges I figured I had enough “stuff” around my shop to make one.
I saved this metal produce display cart from the scrap yard and thought it would do for a base. Welded some 3x3 angle.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3122.jpg)
Added a second piece with hinges I had laying around.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3124.jpg)
I then added a third piece ontop of the first piece and set it back about 1/8” and ground a nice round edge. I drilled a couple hole for 3/8” bolts to lock down the work piece. I also added a CJ sway bar for a handle.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3125.jpg)
Tested a scrap piece (16g), the hinges are further apart then I’d like but it will work perfect for the floor tunnel. I’m thinking of a piano hinge for the sharper bends.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3127.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3128.jpg)
I have set a time frame to have the body together by Saturday this gives me 1 night and 1 day to finish. I have to finish my kitchen cabinets Thursday night, I know, should have been a 2-3 day job that has lasted over 4 months just need to finish the molding, Friday night I have a commitment. The brake should speed things along.
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your awesome!
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Thanks :D
Last night I did mostly prep work cutting, cleaning, measuring, and shaping. I also welded in the body mounts and center floor tunnel. The tunnel adds support to the floor and looks correct. Hopefully I’ll finish the floor and side panels Saturday.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3129.jpg)
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Wow Chuck, if I gave you a rim from a 75' chevy, 2 pieces of bamboo, an old toothbrush and JJ's FJ, what could you make me? :D
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Wow Chuck, if I gave you a rim from a 75' chevy, 2 pieces of bamboo, an old toothbrush and JJ's FJ, what could you make me? :D
The rim and FJ is a lot to work with I’m sure we could come up with something. However, someone else’s old toothbrush would gross me out. :D
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nice job on the sheet metal brake, finally a good use for a cj trac bar
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Thanks,
Came up short of finishing the floors and side panels today, making a trip for a bottle of welding gas didn’t help.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3137.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3138.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3141.jpg)
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Looks great! See you tomorrow, Chuck!
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that is the coolest!
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Lookin good!
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looking pretty damn sweet there chuck.
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Thanks for the comments guys!
Yesterday morning I traveled to iFab in Woburn for some cage building. John, Tim, and Ian were kind enough to offer their skills and tools for this project. I arrived at iFab at 8am, unloaded my rig, and then shortly after Crew Chief John and iFab owners Ian and Tim began brain storming a cage design.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3143.jpg)
First, some indoor bird hunting
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3144.jpg)
Planning
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3145.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3146.jpg)
Design taking shape
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3147.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3148.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3149.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3150.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3151.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3153.jpg)
John on his second shirt, or was it his third?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3154.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3155.jpg)
The crew bent all the hard stuff for me and all I have to do now is add some straight tube in a few places. Everyone has a busy schedule, and family commitments, for these guys to take a full day to work on my rig says a lot about them and means a great deal to me. Thank you Tim, Ian, and John. :cheers:
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i had a blast!
the cage design is pretty spiffy. it was challenging but looks good in end.
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Awesome job guys...Chuck- i know what u mean, if it wasnt for iFab id have nothing. Sorry if my eye sore of a project got in the way at all. :D
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I had a blast. Three shirts, but the second two where identical.
This rig is awesome, the attention to detail is amazing, can't wait to see it run.
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rig does look great chuck! and i have to second the comment about
the guys in the club, i, for one, have had ian, john, tim, jerry, andy,
brian, mudrover and i may be forgetting others...all work on my rig and
it is amazing that these guys are not only willing to help, but they work on it
as if it were their own rig! that being said, great job guys!!
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Looks like fun, I miss those days when I wrenched :)
Going to need to bring my jeep up one day!
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awesome, great work boys
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Chuck, when you took the notcher, did you grab the brown T handle Allen wrench?
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Yes, have it thanks!
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The rear shafts I bought needed to be cut down a bit and thought I’d use a chop saw.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3164.jpg)
I found when shaving off a small piece the large wheel had to much flex and produced heat so I used a cut-off wheel in my 4 ½ grinder. I used a collar for a guide and it did the trick.
When I installed the passenger side shaft (rear FF) and tighten the flange bolts it locked the wheel as if the brakes were on. What was causing the wheel to lock?
I loosened the bolts and removed the calibers to rule out the brake then tighten the flange bolts again….wheel locked up again. Was the shaft still too long?
I pulled the shaft and painted the flange and this is what I found. Can you see the problem?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3165.jpg)
Anyways, once I corrected the problem I buttoned anything up and filled the diff with gear oil
The next day I found this……
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3172.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3176.jpg)
I had a shop cut off the spindles to bore and re-weld them on as you can see there is an undercut and leak. Wasn’t a big deal drained the diff, removed the disc brakes, bracket, cleaned, and re-weld. I was half way through the job when I notice the driver side was leaking as well. Did the same procedure on the driver side too.
The cage has been moving along finished the top now have to finish the floor to add the b pillar.
Also rebuilt this Carter WA1 613S carb (1940s era)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN3195.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN3197.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN3202.jpg)
Before disassembling
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN3178.jpg)
After
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/MC2100%20rebuild/DSCN3205.jpg)
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if the welder of that undercut just welded 1 more inch around he wouldn't have had the undercut and it would have saved you some time.
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8)
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chuck, i need you to come and work on my stuff...you make the most particular
guy look like a hack!! nice work!
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here is a tip from my fab days - yes I used to be quite the fab master once apon a time....
after you do a weld that needs to be leak free - you can spray WD40 on the inside of the weld and then watch the outside weld for leaks as WD40 will find any holes your eyes dont see. Use a flashlight to look for a "wet shine" if you need extra help in identifying leaks.
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Thanks for the comments and tip.
After welding the tubes I applied some metal filler as extra insurance and the tubes are sealed tight with no oil leaks.
Overall the tub is not in the best shape besides the rust, dents, and bondo the PO re-skinned the side and rear panels that he failed to weld together so I’m working with separate layered sheets so it’s been interesting.
I’m not sure what happen above the driver side wheel well maybe a roll or something crashed down on it I’m losing a ½" from the rear of the well to the front.
At the time I welded the side panel on but I wasn't happy with it so I cut the side panel and lifted the rear of tub to take the curse off. The dip is still there but not nearly as bad something I can live with for a wheeler (a before pic can be seen in a previous post).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3210.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3211.jpg)
To the far right you can see where the PO skinned the tub and didn’t take down the weld. Most likely the reason for all the bondo
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3213.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3214.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3215.jpg)
(My last post) For those who may be wondering it was the spindle sticking out too far causing the axle shaft to bind. I took about a 1/16” off for the fix.
I pulled the shaft and painted the flange and this is what I found. Can you see the problem?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3165.jpg)
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so cool
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Thanks Bob
I also ordered some suspension seats per recommendation of iFab.
Won't be able to send them until Aug.
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This build has claimed 3 grinders, 1 jig-saw, several head, arm, hand, and leg gashes........sounds like a typical build.
Jig-saws don’t last long cutting 16g sheetmetal although this B&D lasted longer then most, but died last night.
Added the passenger side panel I used a 90* bend at the bottom just like they did from the factory. I welded both sides.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3223.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3219.jpg)
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Looking nice. I don't know if its just luck, but years ago I bought a Milwaukee grinder which was more expensive than others I've had.
It still works great, and I'm not exactly nice to it.
I also this year I bought a Milwaukee handheld band saw, which I find is much nicer/clean smooth for cutting metal. It makes a much nicer task of fabrication if you're cutting with the grinder (not just grinding).
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Thanks Bobby,
Over the sheetmetal hurtle, finished the floor and driver's side panel. Anyone that butt welds sheetmetel knows the time involved. I still have a few small pieces to add here and there, hat channels, plus several hours grinding down welds.
Also finished the Lucas type wiper cover. I changed it a bit by adding a top cover. I used scrap I had in my shop to make the sides, (bottom) top cover, (middle) and inside support plate (top).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3224.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3225.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3227.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3229.jpg)
I adjusted the cover to flow with the A pillar and also clear the wiper motor when I drop the windshield.
(Disregard the spare dash it's there for mock up)
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8)
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That looks like came out real good Chuck ! Nicely done.
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Thanks,
Near finished with the cage just need to mount seats and tire carrier then tie it into frame.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3234.jpg)
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looks nice, me likey!
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Thanks John,
Last weekend I striped a Jeep and filled it with old parts that no one wanted for a scrap yard run. As I was filling the bed certain shapes caught my eye, scrap prices weren’t very high, and I thought maybe I could make use of those parts and keep them out of the scrap yard.
This is what I came up with………..enjoy
Everyone should have a shop dog
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3243.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3239.jpg)
A bug thingy
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3244.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3242.jpg)
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Very cool
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i like the bug
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I love them
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Build looks awesome Chuck!
The dog got a good laugh at my work.
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Chuck, you need get on top of you lawn guys, the grass needs a mowing ;)
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Last weekend I went to iFab where Tim and Ian bent some tube and helped me install my tranny crossmemer. I’d like to thank Tim and Ian again for all your help it’s much appreciated.
I didn't have my camera with me that day so I took a few pics when I got home.
The 5 smaller pieces is for cage tie-in the other tube is for a shoulder harness anchor.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3258.jpg)
The tranny crossmember
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3254.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3255.jpg)
I gained 2 ¼” by tossing the factory crossmember. I trimmed the mounting plate and had to account for front driveshaft clearance. My choice was to clock the t-case up or notch the tube, given my time restraints I chose to notch the tube. After cutting the tube I plated the inside with 1/8” then plated the top with the same I used notcher remnants to fill the sides.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3257.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3259.jpg)
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i almost cried uncontrollable when i saw the yoke hit the crossmember late that night.
finished product looks great. gaining 2 1/4" is probably the most important thing you have done to improve this jeep's offroad performance.
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Chuck, Ian, and Tim...excellent work...that late night really paid off.
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Thanks,
Lol, my build is in rewind….
Made twins sticks for my 300
Ran a test through the gears found the rear yoke needed 35ft lbs to turn in 4L
This could be normal with a 4.1/T-18 but figured it best to pull the tranny and case, no change at the rear yoke although I can turn the tranny input shaft by hand in first gear.
Pulled the clutch to double check the pilot bushing, looked good.
While I was there I double checked the flywheel bolts, all good except when I turned the flywheel it locked at 1/3 turns
Pulled the plugs and turned the crankshaft back and fourth in 1/3 turns compression on 4 cylinders good there, hear a metal to metal sound and look at the HB and see it hitting the water pump at 1/3 turn
Check my parts stash and find the original pump with a machined surface where HB is hitting the new pump, double check my extra stock 360 and it has the machined surface on it as well. China sucks!
Off comes the water pump, PS, Air pump, and alternator.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3269.jpg)
After many years of bench pressing trannys it was time to buy some help. ;D
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3270.jpg)
Nose to the grindstone
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Nose to the grindstone
Speaking of grindstones maybe I have something small enough that would do the trick.
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amazing, glad you figured it out.
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Nice tranny jack
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Called tera-low tech they told me turning the rear yoke in 4L at 35 ft lbs was normal before break-in. I have another fresh built T-18/D-20 3.15 sitting in my shop and can turn the rear yoke in 2H and 4L with ease. They sited the gear reduction from 3.15 to 4.1 being the difference and that 30-35 ft lbs was normal in the 4.1.
I called Rich because he has the same set-up (t-18/d3004.1) and he was kind enough to remove his DS and turn his rear yoke in 4L his findings were 50 inch lbs more inline with my thinking (thanks Rich).
Called tera-low, after some discussion they will be sending out another 4.1 kit.
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(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3278.jpg)
Removed the t-case and the gears turned as they should in 4L.
I’ll continue to work up stream to find the issue.
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I found the binding issue to be the reverse fork insert jammed behind the reverse idler gear. The fork insert kept the shift fork from sliding the gear rearward causing partial engagement which in turned caused binding.
Purchased and installed new inserts
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3292.jpg)
Put the tranny, b-housing, and t-case back together and installed in Jeep. Built some twinsticks using some old D-18 sticks, I sleeved the two shift rails, drilled a couple holes for bolts to fasten onto the rails, welded two studs for shift pivots and cut slots in both shifters.
Typically using old school sticks with a body lift would leave the sticks too short and hard to reach so I added some metal to raise the sticks 3”. The sticks shift effortlessly.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3290.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3291.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3294.jpg)
Two companies I talked to concerning the binding suggested it was the assemblee goo sticking the syncros together. At the end it was the fork insert not the goo.
I spoke to the tech guy at international lubricants about their products and my findings, he was kind enough to send me a little something for my feedback.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3297.jpg)
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You will love the twin stick.
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I agree, most all the Jeeps I own or have owned came from the factory with twinsticks.
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Most know my Jeep projects slow down in the fall because of other commitments. After helping Plymouth North win a league championship in 2010 I moved to the other side of town to Plymouth South a team that never won a league championship. That changed last night, I helped South win their first ever league championship with a 13-12 win over previously undefeated Nauset.
It appears we’ll play Natick in the first round of the playoffs, if were good enough to make it by them the next game will be the super bowl at Foxboro Stadium.
Most thought we were done after Nauset scored with only 40 seconds to play going up 12-7. We came back with a 62 yard score with 20 seconds for the win.
Check out the video clip to get a feel how crazy it was.
http://espn.go.com/blog/boston/high-school/post/_/id/19868/recap-plymouth-south-13-no-17-nauset-12
Hopefully my Jeep project will start again on Dec 3 one day after Super Bowl Sunday.
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High school sports are the best- nice work coach.
Natick has Flutie's son at QB.
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Conrats Chuck! Did you actually move (house) or did you just switch teams?
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Chuck move ? Haha...
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High school sports are the best- nice work coach.
Natick has Flutie's son at QB.
Thanks, Natick’s QB is the nephew of Doug Flutie
Conrats Chuck! Did you actually move (house) or did you just switch teams?
Thanks, just switch teams.
Ok, this is a build threads so I suppose I should post something along those lines.
I’ve owned the same 2 ½ floor jack for many years and it started to leak about a year ago. I knew it needed a rebuild but it’s last on the to-do list so I just added oil and put it to work. Last week I had an opportunity so I broke it down and change the o-rings.
They sell rebuild kits for about $40 but you’ll only need the kit if your jack doesn’t hold in the up position. If it holds yet leaks you can just replace the o-rings. I replaced 3 for $1.50.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3346.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3347.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3348.jpg)
It now works as it should.
I also had a chance to oil my grandfather clock’s mechanism something that should be done every 2-3 years.
Removing and replacing the mechanism for oiling can be tricky, patience and care is needed.
Cotton gloves are needed for this job touching the brass with bare hands will tarnish the brass. Three weights, pendulum, clock hands, and 4 locking paws to remove the clock face, mechanism came out by removing 2 screws.
Below is the front plate with about 20 pivot oil sinks which all need oil, the rear plate will have the same amount. The pivot sinks (small holes on the plate) hold a small amount of oil that keeps the bearings oiled for about 2-3 years. You must add only a drop if more is added it will flush out all the oil in the sink and leave the bearing dry.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3349.jpg)
rear plate
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3351.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3350.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/DSCN3353.jpg)
Good for another 2-3 years.
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For those who are interested 2 short clips of last Friday's game
18 seconds left in the game
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4itmDZ1dJs
Channel 5 came down Monday to interview some of the players.
http://www.wcvb.com/news/sports/Creative-play-leads-to-dramatic-football-finish/-/9848968/17378482/-/5qmqpq/-/index.html
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awesome example of heads up team play right there. great win!
and is there anything you cant fix Posi?
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Good Luck tonight Coach-
The AD in Braintree has a bunch of coaches working the snack bar/tickets...I might see you there.
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Thanks Matt, we have the second game tonight 7:45 start.
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Thanks Matt, we have the second game tonight 7:45 start.
We lost the game 38-35, maybe next year?
This build thread has Jeeps, garden tractor, MG, cars, yard art, and grandfather clocks so I guess it won’t matter much if I add a garage door opener build.
Like most things if it has a motor and moving parts it eventually will need an overhaul. It starts with the bearings in the pulleys going bad causing drag when the door opens and closes if the drag becomes worse the motor will shred the fail safe gears.
My pulley bearing were toast check out the play
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3417_zps917fff44.jpg)
Purchased a set of pulleys for $6 online
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3418_zpsf5f0813f.jpg)
Also purchased an overhaul kit with gears, bushings, and other small parts ($17).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3424_zps18161a2d.jpg)
A look at the fail safe plastic worm gear and gear.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3419_zpscfe178aa.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3420_zps330ee9b4.jpg)
The job isn’t difficult and for $23 it was worth repairing opposed to buying a new opener.
I disconnected the power and removed the unit and track
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3421_zpse176596c.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3422_zpsfbaa7f38.jpg)
To remove the worm gear the unit much be dismantled
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3423_zpsb2c18307.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3425_zps3d141ffb.jpg)
Reassemble in reverse order with new parts, below are the discarded parts.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3426_zps98a33483.jpg)
When everything is back together there is a need to make adjustments to the doors stops (open and close) along with chain adjustment. The opener is now working as it did when I purchased it 15 years ago.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Garage%20door%20opener%20overhaul/DSCN3431_zps68a67f9f.jpg)
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Built a rear bumper from 5' 2x4 3/16” stock ($50).
I cut 2- 2.5” pieces off to use as brackets
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3399_zpsec9c48d2.jpg)
Trimmed the edges
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3400_zps96fe7a2f.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3402_zps0a27ae32.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3405_zpsef2be2ff.jpg)
Mocked up the brackets and burnt them in
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3406_zps1a2627bd.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3407_zps918b4df1.jpg)
I bought some 4.5” long 1” thick through bumper clevis mounts ($22 for the set)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3410_zps0b1fd3d2.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3414_zpse1c822c4.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3415_zpsd433cf7d.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3416_zps572c9ef2.jpg)
Not perfect but it will do for my needs.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3430_zpsa4a1855a.jpg)
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not perfect!? that looks awesome!
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8)
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Great work Chuck!
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Thanks for the comments.
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Happy to see the build back underway-
How do you get the pictures that size? I haven't been able to figure it out all I can post is the thumbnail
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Looks good Chuck!
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Thanks guys!
I transfer my pics from photobucket, direct links, IMG codes (for forum boards)
Hope this helps.
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Finally had a weekend over 50 degrees so I took the opportunity to get some painting done.
I picked up a front explorer driveshaft for $20 at the boneyard to use in the rear. Had a few inches added to make it 33.5”
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3460_zpscc5ba6d7.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3462_zps1cd4ed94.jpg)
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I picked up a HF 44” 13 drawer rolling tool box. I did my research and it is made just as good if not better then sears stuff. I checked out a similar size at sears for $1200 it weighed 230lbs with a weight capacity of 1000lbs My HF box weighs 245 with a weight capacity of over 2600lbs and I paid $349 on sale. And yes ball bearing sliding drawers.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Tool%20box/DSCN3434_zps71f704bf.jpg)
The only problem I had was all my other boxes are Craftsman so decided to shoot some paint and re-badge, problem solved.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Tool%20box/DSCN3453_zps6b8ae8b2.jpg)
While I was at it I shot an old box I picked up for $10 I found on the way up to Maki’s house last summer.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Tool%20box/DSCN3461_zps6f8a4174.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Tool%20box/DSCN3463_zps72c7d803.jpg)
Now all my junk matches.
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Last week I found an old (1941) Desmond – Stephan Simplex vise. Overall the vise is in good shape just needed some cleaning and lubing.
A link to a newer 1952 model in Popular Mechanics
http://books.google.com/books?id=K9kDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=simplex+vise&source=bl&ots=QFRH1QV8DS&sig=HGpVN_PLiHeCZPrHDjlpCFRpUcs&hl=en&sa=X&ei=hXJXUaWjMMfV0gH77oHIDw&ved=0CIoBEOgBMAc#v=onepage&q=simplex%20vise&f=false
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3441_zps0d77128b.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3443_zpsec01f66d.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3445_zps34dd5243.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3444_zps5f514dc7.jpg)
I stayed with the original colors although I did add white paint to give it that patriotic look.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3446_zpse9fde96b.jpg)
1941
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3447_zps69c213ee.jpg)
Ready for another 72 years of service.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3455_zps26d9559b.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Vise/DSCN3456_zpsff10b7c0.jpg)
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wow, I want that vice! Nice job!
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I've looked at that box at harbor freight a few times and have thought about picking one up since my small snap-on one is getting cramped. The box looks like an awesome deal. I love that vise, that's really cool that you found one that old and it looks new now
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that explorer shaft, 1310 joints at the CV end?
Also, funny you picked up that Box, I was telling Ian last week that I was going to consolidate all my boxes into two large roll aways with a work top and I specifically mentioned that box. That price makes it a steal and on Garage Journal, everyone raves about them.
As always Chuck, Everything looks great, now quite posting and get to work!
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that explorer shaft, 1310 joints at the CV end?
i never thought to use an explorer shaft.
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Thanks for your comments
that explorer shaft, 1310 joints at the CV end?
Yes, and a conversion joint on the other end. The tube is thicker then the front XJ shafts as well.
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How much slip shaft? I know the shaft from my trucks ifs was only couple inches of engagement, which is about 1/2" of usable slip.
Also what is the shaft diameter?
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How much slip shaft? I know the shaft from my trucks ifs was only couple inches of engagement, which is about 1/2" of usable slip.
Also what is the shaft diameter?
The stock shaft is 2" diameter .120 wall and has a 2.5 stroke.
I added some length and 4.5 stroke.
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I was really close to getting one of those HF boxes and I would have one now, but I got a good deal on some used boxes.
Love the progress, Chuck!
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Thanks Tim
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Good work on the vise. Looks great.
My grandfather just recently gave me his father's (my great grandfather's) vise. I am thinking about repainting it as well.
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Thanks Dan
I’d be interested in knowing the maker of that vise along with some pics if possible your Grandfather gave you a great opportunity to own a nice piece of history. The restore is straight forward and doesn't take a lot of time.
If you’re Great Grandfather was raised in Ma I wonder if its an Athol vise (Athol Ma), or possibly Charles Parker, Wilton, Columbian, Reed, Prentiss, or Yost to name a few.
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Hey Chuck,
I just took some pictures of mine, you are correct. It is a Parker. It has a patent date of 1867.
(http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w60/dw265/photo-1.jpg)
(http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w60/dw265/photo2-2.jpg)
(http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w60/dw265/image.jpeg)
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That is sweet! Coming from your Great Grandfather its something I'm sure you will value for many years.
You need some history background to go along with that special gift.
"The Meriden Enterprise Center is a large manufacturing plant that is home to over 60 businesses,
located in the center of Connecticut. The plant was the former home of companies such as the Charles Parker company, known for the manufacture of the Springfield rifle and the development of one of the early repeating rifles in the
mid- nineteenth century. Charles Parker was born in 1809 and rose from poverty to become one of Connecticut’s leading industrialists. He also became the city of Meriden's first mayor. He started his manufacturing career inventing and producing coffee mills in a small shop in 1832.
By 1860, he owned several large factories and employed hundreds of people, in and around Meriden. Parker products included hardware and house wares, flatware, clocks, lamps, piano stools and benches, vises, coffee mills, industrial machinery, and, after 1862, guns. Guns, however, never
amounted to more than 10 percent of Parker’s business. Charles Parker died in 1901 and his descendants carried on his businesses until 1957. The Great Depression of the 1930s took its toll on the Parker enterprise and it never fully recovered. Parker products have now become “collector’s items,” especially the Parker shotguns. The Charles Parker Company sold its gun facility and the rights to the Parker gun
to Remington Arms Company in 1934, and Remington continued the Parker shotgun line until World War II.
The attraction by collectors to the Parker shotgun comes because of the gun’s inherent quality and beauty.
The Parker gun is an American classic.
During World War II, the plant became the home of the New Departure Manufacturing Company, which produced ball-bearings. The company was eventually owned by General Motors. At its peak, over 20,000 people were employed at the plant. During much of the plant's life, the plant was powered
with an on-site power generation station which also powered other parts of the city. Stories are told about the plant during this time. It is rumored that during the war, thousands of ball bearings were stored underneath the parking lot of the plant, almost a whole year's production worth, in case the factory was bombed! In this case, the company would recover the store of bearings until factory production was
re-established."
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Thanks for the info Chuck! Good stuff.
Since your's came out so well I think I'll try to follow your lead if you don't mind. How did you clean up your vise (wire wheel?) and did you use any special type of paint?
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Wire wheel, no special paint. I used Magic paint on my vise.
Hint: If you plan to work with the vise apply bees wax or light oil it keeps all the nicks and scraps from rusting.
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The PO snapped off the grill mounting bolt and his repair was to drill 2 holes in the grill and the frame crossmember to mount the grill.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3484_zps72c037dc.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3484_zps72c037dc.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3483_zps7843895c.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3483_zps7843895c.jpg.html)
It appears he made an attempted to remove the captured block and bolt by the looks of the bent cover but thought it was somehow faster drilling through the grill and frame.
I used a sawzal to cut the tip then removed the captured block and bolt. I welded a nut to remove the bolt from the block about 15 mins of work.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3485_zps89f3ca74.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3485_zps89f3ca74.jpg.html)
The CJ5 came from the factory with three different parking assemblies. The early 5’s came with a small glass lens with SS ring, the 68-75 came with a plastic lens with SS ring, and the 76-85 with plastic only with a simulated ring.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3510_zpsd2715e40.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3510_zpsd2715e40.jpg.html)
I don’t like the fake plastic rings and chose to install the 68-75 parking assembly onto my 76-85 grill. Matt (freefree) gave me a set of rings (thanks) and I purchased the lens and bucket from Jeff at Crown.
The later grills have a larger hole then the 68-75 grills so I made a blank to fill in the hole then cut to proper size.
76-85 grill with blank
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3487_zpsf48a6642.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3487_zpsf48a6642.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3493_zps1321156b.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3493_zps1321156b.jpg.html)
Cut in a 68-75 hole
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3496_zps87aad976.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3496_zps87aad976.jpg.html)
I cleaned up the SS rings
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3497_zps19c6785d.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3497_zps19c6785d.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3501_zpsa712b9b6.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3501_zpsa712b9b6.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3504_zpsd6e20e15.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3504_zpsd6e20e15.jpg.html)
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I was out working on the grill when out of the corner of my eye I saw a domesticated mouse walking nearby. It stopped to check out what I was doing then walks right up to me. I figured the young kids on the corner were the owners and took it to them (it wasn’t theirs) so I let it go in the woods across the street. About 20 mins later it’s back at my feet, who am I Marlin Perkins? Anyways, it hangs around until dark I again take it into the woods this time making a nest for it. I’m thinking it’s not going to make the night possibly a snack for a hungry owl I’m sure a life on a treadmill in someone's home didn’t prepare it one bit for the wild.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3488_zps57f6fc06.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3488_zps57f6fc06.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3491_zps3604f3c7.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3491_zps3604f3c7.jpg.html)
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Looks great Chuck- what did you use to clean up the rings- naval jelly?
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Thanks Matt, I used a dental probe and Noxon polish.
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i had to google "Marlin Perkins". i guess he was before my time....
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wild kingdom lol lookin' good Chuck!
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I'll stay here in the safety of the jeep while Jim wrestles the wild alligator :D
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Yeah, figured most here would. He was a pioneer when it came to wildlife shows, he got the ball rolling for all that followed his lead.
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Isn't there a bio-pharmaceutical company near your house, I bet that mouse held the cure for cancer.
Looks great
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Bought a 10,000 lift for my wife last week, I know she’ll get a lot of use out of it.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3465_zpse0bb635a.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3465_zpse0bb635a.jpg.html)
My 2 boys and I installed the lift in a day and a half although it took a half day to remove what was in the shop.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3507_zpsb371d6d0.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3507_zpsb371d6d0.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3467_zps905091b7.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3467_zps905091b7.jpg.html)
Thanks goes out to Ian for checking on a used lift in his area, sent me info and pics, also to Jerry for lending me his hammer drill for the install.
On another note a collector came buy last Sunday and gave me a deposit on my 46 2a, 50 pickup and a 1991 360. I really didn't want the truck to go it was untouched and completely original and I can understand why he pushed so hard for it. Anyways, they came last night and hauled them away.
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For your wife....
Brilliant!
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I'm so jealous! of the lift and the jeep. :cheers:
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Wow nice-
All you have left is CJ5s- Love it.
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Chuck,
The lift looks great and so does the 6. Congrats on the sale although I am sure it is hard to see some of your vehicles move on to another owner.
Keep up the good work on the 6...... I'm watching closely ;)
K
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Thanks for the comments,
It was nothing I had planned. I didn’t advertise the Jeeps for sale a collector knew I had them and asked to come by, day later their gone along with a 360 and Timken axle.
Being everything was moved around in my shop I now have a job of inventorying all the parts and organizing them. I’ll be building a wall and some shelving in the shop’s loft to store parts followed by organizing my shop. The amount of parts I have I’m thinking it will take a week or longer to finish.
Maybe I’ll have a huge garage sale this weekend, a lot of Willys stuff.
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I’ve been organizing the shop every night since Tuesday and about 20 hours over the weekend. I put up a wall in the loft and boxed in a window along with some shelving. I removed 1780 lbs of scrap iron as well. Things are looking better should be done by Friday night hopefully.
I had some leftover PVC and decided to make good use of it.
Now my zip ties are readily available, frees up a draw as well.
I installed PVC test caps on the bottom and shot silver hammer paint.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3464_zps88fb989d.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3464_zps88fb989d.jpg.html)
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Mock up for tube fenders
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3542_zps4f822373.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3542_zps4f822373.jpg.html)
First coat of primer
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3560_zpsf02deb44.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3560_zpsf02deb44.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3561_zpsc0910673.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3561_zpsc0910673.jpg.html)
1 more primer coat then top coat
I’ll add an inner fender once I mount the front shock mounts I already cut off a stock inner fender to use if need be or I could go with 16g sheetmetal.
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perfect!
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i'm going to guess posi doesn't have the words "CLOSE ENOUGH" written in crayon on the side of his rig like i did during my build.
top notch fab! 8)
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Its about time !
;D
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i'm going to guess posi doesn't have the words "CLOSE ENOUGH" written in crayon on the side of his rig like i did during my build.
top notch fab! 8)
Damn the torpedoes!! Full build ahead!! :woot:
Top notch work, as always posi!!!
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Thanks for the comments,
I’m trying not to be too particular especially when it comes to the body, the tub is in really rough shape and would take many more hours to make it right then I’m willing to give at this time.
I finished welding up the cage, there were over 75 joints to be welded over 4 sticks plus some black pipe mixed in for the seat frames, windshield center bars, and grab bar.
I used some 16g to cover the tube ends.
It won’t be seen hidden by the seats so I’m calling this GOOD ENOUGH ;D
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3565_zps462b5e40.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3565_zps462b5e40.jpg.html)
The PO of my trailer hauled race cars and built a rock shield using 1x1 1/8” tube and plywood. I had no use for the rock shield so I cut it off and used the tube as hat channels to support the floor.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3567_zpsc4b3f7af.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3567_zpsc4b3f7af.jpg.html)
I picked up some 1/4” 4x8 plate stock for my skid plates and work bench top.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3566_zpsab72c604.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3566_zpsab72c604.jpg.html)
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Nice chuck! Get this done, I need someone to drive me around at the bbq.
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Thanks, The bbq is my focus at this point.
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I finished installing the floor supports and welding the underside of the floor’s midsection.
Cut out the driver and passenger side floor
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3572_zps9c10b3ec.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3572_zps9c10b3ec.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3573_zpsaf20d389.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3573_zpsaf20d389.jpg.html)
Drilled out the spot welds in the front floor supports
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3570_zpsd49d3e68.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3570_zpsd49d3e68.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3571_zps4438e690.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3571_zps4438e690.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3575_zpsddbcc394.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3575_zpsddbcc394.jpg.html)
Still need to clean them up with a med-fine flapper
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3577_zps9181305a.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3577_zps9181305a.jpg.html)
I need to weld the underside of the front floors and repair 9 more holes in the floor and I’ll be prepping for floor cover.
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Beautiful work as always Chuck.....going to be one sick rig.
K
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Yeah dude, nice work on the floor. 8)
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Thanks for the kind words guys,
After doing more wire wheeling I found several more holes on the floor and wheel wells kinda looks like swiss cheese. The PO filled most holes with bondo.
Anyways, finished filling all the holes (about 15) with metal. I’m not too concerned about how the floors look because.....well, their floors just want them structurally sound.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3585_zps0d0c294b.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3585_zps0d0c294b.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3587_zpsc923f3de.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3587_zpsc923f3de.jpg.html)
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In case anyone was interested you can fill holes using a small piece of sheetmetal, washer, or just weld it closed like I did. I start at the edge and work in a circle until it’s closed.
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what size wire are you using?
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I was using .023 for the floors and thought I only had a few holes to fill so I didn't change wire, .030 would do a better job filling.
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are you going to go with some type of "line-X" covering for the floors?
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My standard answer would be no on the line-x type floor covering. They look great when you first lay them on but once dirt finds its way in the nooks and crannies of the rubber compound it’s hard to remove, kinda has that dust on faded black paint look. If you ever need to work on the metal removing the stuff isn’t as easy as paint or Rust Encapsolater. This CJ will be 20/80 road/off-road and will see dirt, washing down the tub will be much easier and faster using paint opposed to the rubber compound.
That being said the rubber compound covers imperfections well, and by pure coincidence, two months ago I was given a free, never opened, herculiner kit so I have a choice to make.
What say everyone?
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Do the whole outside of the tub
All the Koop kids have that
::)
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Paint. I did hurculiner and I wish I didn't.
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Paint
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I bought the kit for my 78'
Then I returned it.
I say paint it.
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Do the whole outside of the tub
All the Koop kids have that
You need to have a blow torch/scraper party.
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Chuck you have a good point about how it looks after a while. I had it in my CJ and just ended up doing a top coat in the footwells after a year or tow and it looked good. Not sure what I would do if faced with the decision again but paint is much easier for the reasons you stated.
K
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Paint, bed liner has no place on a jeep (unless it is in the bed of a jeep pickup)
Have you considered using an implement paint. little tougher than rattle can, brush and roller application and easy to patch or repair as it wears.
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I already have a gallon ($30) of blue implement paint for the tub, hood, fenders, and windshield.
I've decided to use Rust Encapsulator but there is good reason to add a top coat over the RE with black implement paint as well, thanks
I believe the combination of the two would add a good durable cover that wouldn't be overly hard to remove if need be, or touch-up.
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I had to address the tranny tunnel after the PO hacked it up installing a T-5 (longer tranny)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3588_zpsc4cccbd3.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3588_zpsc4cccbd3.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3594_zps6bc3ee76.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3594_zps6bc3ee76.jpg.html)
When I cut the tub in half the stamped fuel fill was so close to the wheel well I cut some of the recess from the stamp so I had to repair that as well.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3597_zps2692aebd.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3597_zps2692aebd.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3598_zps008cf5cc.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3598_zps008cf5cc.jpg.html)
I cut back some sheetmetal then used a thin piece of sheetmetal set at an angle to fill the hole.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3599_zps3438eb15.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3599_zps3438eb15.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3600_zps45567db4.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3600_zps45567db4.jpg.html)
I'll use some filler when the time comes to clean it up. I started filling in some holes on the outside of the tub, about 2 dozen in all some small some large.
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so great!
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Thanks Bob,
I've be been busy working on other car projects the last few days but squeezed in some time for the 6.
The tub appears to have been t-boned at the driver side door entry which made the top bow out about 2”. The CJ6 came from the factory with hat channel just inside the door entry for support for the longer panels. I took the opportunity to suck in the sides using a tow strap and 1x2 1/8” c-channel. The cage will be a tight fit with the sides corrected hopefully it will go in by dropping in one side at a time.
I wished I took a pic of how much it bowed before I pulled it in and how it looks now but missed the opportunity.
I seam sealed the inside of the tub and undercarriage. The inside is ready for paint which I'll do after I weld the outside of the tub.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3603_zps88aa1c9d.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3603_zps88aa1c9d.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3605_zpsc42bf450.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3605_zpsc42bf450.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3607_zpsc2628880.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3607_zpsc2628880.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3613_zpsab7cd18b.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3613_zpsab7cd18b.jpg.html)
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do you think you will be able to make the bbq?
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Simple answer, no.
However, if my rig was the only vehicle I worked on it would be ready for the BBQ. Family members come first, if they need help I take care of their needs before my rig. I'm focused on finishing my rig soon, enough so were I told a friend I couldn't work on his rig until I completed mine which I felt bad about. Of course I don't help myself when last Sunday I decided to work on my Harley (overhauled the brakes). Or when I ban myself from CL to stay focused on my build then a friend calls asking me if I want to buy his Jeep, and I can't say no (it was a good deal ;D )
Anyways, I understand my build threads must be like watching paint dry or grass grow, trust me I want to be out there wheeling just as much as you guys want me out there.
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So did you register the shovel ?
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I plan on getting plates Monday or Tuesday.
I still have to do the fluids, check the points. Bought a battery, filled and charged.
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Sounds like a little cruise down the beach is in order 8)
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Or when I ban myself from CL to stay focused on my build then a friend calls asking me if I want to by his Jeep, and I can't say no (it was a good deal ;D )
How about some pictures of the new Jeep-
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All I have at the moment, no blackout lights......yet.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1942%20MB/DSCN3622_zps03b16ca4.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/1942%20MB/DSCN3622_zps03b16ca4.jpg.html)
T-case
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1942%20MB/DSCN3620_zps4a869942.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/1942%20MB/DSCN3620_zps4a869942.jpg.html)
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Looks good Chuck- nice find. Can't wait to see more.
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Looks great. You might be your own worse enemy. ;D #finishproject6
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Thanks,
Ian, I won't argue that point however, I enjoy the process. ;D
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Looking good, Chuck!
Did you get your harnesses from Crowe yet?
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Thanks,
Yes, went with the 4 point with pads. I'm liking the set it's made well. Just need to burn in the tabs.
I appreciate the advice from you and Ian.
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Chuck... you devil.
Congrats on the purchase.
K
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Thanks Kent,
Finished the top coat for the inside tub and undercarriage. I used a flat black and it show detail, after painting I noticed for the first time a repair patch on the inside fenderwell. I'm leaning towards another top coat on the inside of the tub to match the outside (blue) factory is all one color, not that the tub is anything close to factory, it isn't. I'm thinking the black will hide the imperfections better but blue will keep my feet and body cooler on the warmer days. Thoughts?
I've been pushing the rig in and out of the garage to get other vehicles on the lift, although it's a good workout pushing that fat bastard I'm done with it and it's time to focus on getting the engine running.
I gathered up some parts from the bone yard for my cooling system.
I found a nice contour dual fan, volvo fan controller, bmw 2-stage temp sensor (195/210), and all the connectors. I'll just need to buy a 30 amp circuit breaker everything else is there.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3631_zps5885a82d.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3631_zps5885a82d.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3632_zps19aaf5da.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3632_zps19aaf5da.jpg.html)
I also cut down that foolish wide bumper on the MB. New front lines, hoses, and wheel cylinders as well.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1942%20MB/DSCN3622_zps03b16ca4.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/1942%20MB/DSCN3622_zps03b16ca4.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/1942%20MB/DSCN3635_zpsf402a0d4.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/1942%20MB/DSCN3635_zpsf402a0d4.jpg.html)
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Finish the blue one, then do the white one! ;)
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Finish the blue one, then do the white one! ;)
x2
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I'm done with the MB didn't need much.
I subbed out the exhaust, cost me $170 from manifold back to muffler (I had the muffler and tailpipe). That included studs, gaskets, and hangers. Saved me a bunch of time although I'll need to touch-up some of their welds.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3654_zpse9564471.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3654_zpse9564471.jpg.html)
Fan - The bmw temp switch does not fit an AMC motor so I had to drill out and tap a 3/8" plug to accepted the 14m 1.5 thread of the bmw temp gauge. I also decided to go with a volve fan instead of the contour fan for simplicity. As you can see below the volvo fan and controller is already set up just need to add a hot wire, ground, and wire in the high and low speeds. I'll also need to trim the shroud a bit. The contour is a perfect fit but takes a bit more planing to wire in a volvo controller. The volvo controller is set up for one 2 speed motor not two separate motors like the contour has.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3656_zpsc15d25dc.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3656_zpsc15d25dc.jpg.html)
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I trimmed down the volvo fan's shroud a few times, but I couldn't get it to fit to my liking. I removed the shroud and tried using only the fan but wasn't happy with that as well. I wanted to get something positive done that day so I rebuilt the carb on my Harley.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3669_zps8378ec9b.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3669_zps8378ec9b.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3670_zps1db9f1bb.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3670_zps1db9f1bb.jpg.html)
Bike is now running fine
I decided to give wiring the contour fan another try. I sold my previous contour fan to Bobby so off I went to the BY to find another. After returning to the shop with a new fan I tested the dual fans and they both worked then I used the volvo controller and was able to wire it so I had both fans run on low at 195* and both run on high at 210*.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3672_zps1f75fb58.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3672_zps1f75fb58.jpg.html)
Removed the unnecessary factory wiring and cleaned it up a bit.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3679_zpscacb3b5c.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3679_zpscacb3b5c.jpg.html)
I mounted the fan by drilling some holes in a piece of aluminum then attaching the shroud to the radiator using rivets.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3681_zpsb9f2e729.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3681_zpsb9f2e729.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3683_zpsc3583b22.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3683_zpsc3583b22.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3684_zpsf1b60205.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3684_zpsf1b60205.jpg.html)
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Cool dude. Who did you end up having do the exhaust? Brad?
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Thanks,
I had Lou do it he's a mile down the road from my shop.
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That fan setup looks really good
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Thanks Bobby
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I'm glad to hear the old scoot is running good.
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Nice work on the fan set up...... :rockon:
K
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Thanks guys,
After installing the grill I noticed the hood didn't align with the tub correctly (front of hood was higher) so I shaved off 1/4” from the rubber grill mount and that leveled the hood out nicely.
When I purchased the paint to do my Jeep I chose valspar ford blue, but since then TSC stop selling valspar brand and went with majic. I'll need to color match for touch-up paint down the road so I thought it best to return the gallon I already purchased and go with majic. For the record you can still buy valspar paint at a number of retail stores, lowes being one however, I chose to give TSC my business. Majic paint is base out of Columbus Ohio. Yenkin-Majestic is the parent company and has been offering paint coatings since 1920.
I had to strip the recently painted valspar produced off my dash and repaint it using majic. I also painted, wired, and installed my grill.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3707_zpsf7fbf370.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3707_zpsf7fbf370.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3705_zps4e13eeac.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3705_zps4e13eeac.jpg.html)
I finished the engine bay wiring and tested it by turning over the engine, I just need to install some ignition wires and it should fire up.
Started the passenger compartment wiring
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3687_zps1dd0d92c.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3687_zps1dd0d92c.jpg.html)
I finished the wiring and dash I'll will post some pics soon. Began the placement of the seat harness brackets.
The main thing for me is to forget a time schedule, as long as I'm working and moving forward on a project, that's what matters.
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Can't wait to see it!
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keep on keepin' on! 8)
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Thanks for the comments,
Finished the dash wiring and added a couple gauges. Thought an hour meter would be a good addition and far more useful then a speedometer when comes to maintenance and trail use. I also added a vacuum gauge the most bang for the buck on-board diagnostic tool. Besides the ability to diagnose the valves, valve springs, and valve guides or a leaky intake, head gasket, or choked muffler you can also set timing and tune your carb.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3724_zps9426584b.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3724_zps9426584b.jpg.html)
I added a marine grade toggle switch for on-board air and a 3000 psi Parker ball valve for a rear brake lock.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3723_zpsc43d7f8e.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3723_zpsc43d7f8e.jpg.html)
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love the 6!
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Nice job Chuck !
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Thanks guys,
I added brackets to attach the cage seat harness. I used the lower brace between the A and B pillar to mount the outer lap belt at a 45* angle however, I needed to add some tube to mount the inner lap belt bracket to achieve the same 45* angle.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3725_zpsa6c09638.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3725_zpsa6c09638.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3729_zpse2685314.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3729_zpse2685314.jpg.html)
A before pic of the cage with builders Ian, John, and Tim (thanks again guys).
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3153.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3153.jpg.html)
I added a few pieces to finish it off.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3728_zps36051b8a.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3728_zps36051b8a.jpg.html)
After several hours of prepping.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3734_zpsa15bd0fe.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3734_zpsa15bd0fe.jpg.html)
I still have 1 or 2 hours more of prepping the tight areas.
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badass
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8)
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Thanks,
At first I was feeling all silver, then all blue, then decided to use both colors. I'm not totally happy with the shade of silver, but it should look better next to the blue body.
Ready for install
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3742_zpsc890c486.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3742_zpsc890c486.jpg.html)
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(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_00131_zps0f83e8e8.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_00131_zps0f83e8e8.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_00201_zps3120281c.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_00201_zps3120281c.jpg.html)
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friggin' awesome
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Thanks Bob,
Found and fixed the antifreeze leak (sensor).
Mounted the seats, and seat harnesses
Cut the ignition wires to length
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Great... now not only do I have Jeep envy... I have lift envy too :furious:
It looks awesome Chuck. Can't wait to see it with paint on it.
K
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Been a while since I have been on the forum and I am really loving this thread. Damn sexy rig this is turning out to be. Great work! Looks super bad ass!
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Posi,
You do super clean work. Very cool. Nice work.
-Mike
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words.
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Cut and crimped the ignition wires
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3720_zpsfe2d86ce.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3720_zpsfe2d86ce.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3746_zps08a4f289.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3746_zps08a4f289.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3748_zpsd6b44e78.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3748_zpsd6b44e78.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3754_zps95a324c0.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3754_zps95a324c0.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3756_zps795dc589.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3756_zps795dc589.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3759_zps4511bb9e.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3759_zps4511bb9e.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3757_zpsd5627b17.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3757_zpsd5627b17.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Smilies/upsgirl01.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Smilies/upsgirl01.jpg.html)
1.75” x 8” - PS cooler
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3760_zps8951f92f.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/DSCN3760_zps8951f92f.jpg.html)
I made this out of three spoons and a fork, just because.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_0094_zpse7e28349.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_0094_zpse7e28349.jpg.html)
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I made this out of three spoons and a fork, just because.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_0094_zpse7e28349.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_0094_zpse7e28349.jpg.html)
[/quote]
and this build has reached legendary status
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good choice on the crow harnesses 8)
love the spoon.
"get to the 'choppa!"
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Everything looks awesome! I wish my ups lady was that hot, mines just some old bald guy >:(
What are you going to do for a steering box, pre-tapped psc or tap your own?
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Thanks guys,
What are you going to do for a steering box, pre-tapped psc or tap your own?
https://newenglandjeepz.org/forum/builds/project-5-x2/msg119494/#msg119494
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That spoon should be in an art gallery so should your jeep. Work of art Chuck.
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Thanks,
With the holiday and family over I took a break from working on my project. However, I did find some time to start my Christmas gift making. Enjoy
Old school toys,
VW pickup
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_01521_zps0d57e5b1.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_01521_zps0d57e5b1.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_01511_zps74f7160f.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_01511_zps74f7160f.jpg.html)
Biplane
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_01591_zps1b82bf0a.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_01591_zps1b82bf0a.jpg.html)
Paint
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_01811_zps7326afb3.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_01811_zps7326afb3.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Metal%20art/IMG_01701_zps4dd96718.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Metal%20art/IMG_01701_zps4dd96718.jpg.html)
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Those are very cool-
I found this online- you could make alittle side money
http://www.uncommongoods.com/product/spark-plug-plane-paperweight
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Thanks,
And thanks for the link, he has some interesting stuff. I just moved an industrial cart made from reclaimed wood and steel for a relative over the weekend. They plan to use as for a decoration piece in their living room doesn't look hard to built and the piece went for over $1000. Maybe I'll stop building Jeeps 8)
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Awesome Chuck. Get back on the jeep, fall crawl is only 9 months away!
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A few members have asked for updates, thanks for asking.
I have the electric fan wired and running. I've been pushing the rig in and out of the shop to get other vehicles on the lift and it's getting old so I focused on getting the engine up and running. I made sure all the engine bay wiring was correct and it was ready to fire up for the first time.
After a short cranking period it fired up, it felt good hearing the engine after all this time, I would say the second best thing to happen with a build. I checked oil pressure, good, checked vacuum not so good. It was to be expected because I needed to set engine timing and adjust the rebuilt carb. The engine was running rough at 14” vacuum. I tried to set the timing but couldn't steady the engine long enough so I set the timing with my vacuum gauge. I moved onto the carb adjustment. Again using the vacuum gauge I tried to adjust the carb but it wasn't working, no setting would help the engine vacuum. I also noticed an oil leak from the oil pan gasket (my fault). I stopped to think things through and decided to check for possible vac leaks. I thoroughly check all possible leaking points with propane and found none. At this point I couldn't time the engine properly or adjust the carb and I had an oil leak. I decided to step away for awhile to do some other projects around the house and yard.
After a month away I came back fresh, I dropped the oil pan and installed a new gasket, this time with better results. Then I just stood there and stared at the engine for awhile thinking things through, I knew I had to start from step one TDC. I did, and found the problem......distributor was off one tooth.
I now could set the timing and adjust the carb. The engine is running great at 20” vac. Last weekend I drove it down the road a short ways. I still have a ways to go but it's progress.
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Awesome looking rig man, cant wait to see the finished project and some action shots.
Keep up the great work
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getting close, awesome work Chuck!
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updates!
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Thanks for asking,
The engine was running great with 20” vacuum, and then......not so much. It wouldn't idle, only ran at higher rpms, as soon as I dropped the rpms the engine would stall. I went through the carb settings and all was good. The carb and intake bolts were to specs. I then checked for vac leaks and found an intake leak between the 4/6 cylinder. I made sure everything was super clean before installing the intake, used a good sealant on the heads, top of the valley pan gasket, and bolts, made a nice china wall front and rear.
I removed all the intake bolts and tried physically to remove the intake since I've always been able to do it this way, but not this time, even using leverage didn't work. I had to use an engine hoist and at that it didn't pop off, it peeled off. I have the intake on my work bench ready for cleaning, will also remove the pan gasket to clean the heads . I'll check the right head to see if it's straight prior to installing.
For those who are not able to see the member's section I picked up a 78 CJ that needed some work to make it street/trail worthy. It took a few months to diagnose and repair the issues, but it's up and running and I've been on the club's 3 trail runs to date, and seems to be working well.
I have a few Jeeps I work on for customers and they all want them up and running by spring, plus I have a large family with vehicles and that's year round thing. I'm looking forward to the day this rig is on the trails, it's been a long run, I do appreciate your patience.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_15501_zpslwuhd9mw.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_15501_zpslwuhd9mw.jpg.html)
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I for one am psyched to hear this news! My interest in your projects has never wavered!
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Its good to see it outside getting some fresh air ;D
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YAAAAAY!
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so once you get the 6 going, what are you doing with the white one?
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Sell it,
When I purchased my edelbrock performer intake manifold I trusted their work and simply installed it. Turns out the manifold is warped in the exact stop where I found the leak. I wasn't building a race engine so I didn't check their work prior to installing, plus I didn't think there was a need, or should be. Last night I checked it with a straight edge and it was 9 thousands out, edelbroke limit is 7 thousands.
I can take it to a machine shop, but I plan to first call edelborke for their response.
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parts these days...wtf
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Well when you are ready to sell it, let me know. I know someone who is very interested in it if the price is right.
That sucks about the intake, atleast it's a rather simple fix.
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Probably because the manfold sat on a shelf for 20 years.
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Well when you are ready to sell it, let me know. I know someone who is very interested in it if the price is right.
I do have 2 guys interested, but I'll let you know, thinking after FC, but I've been wrong before.
I was hoping my straight edge was off so I stopped by the machine shop to double check. I measured 9 thousands out at my shop and 10 thousands out at their shop. I checked a few prices to take both sides down 5 thousands and they were in the $90-$120 range. Edelbrock reluctantly agreed to do the repairs at no charge so it's going on a ride to Ca.
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Edelbrock reluctantly agreed to do the repairs at no charge so it's going on a ride to Ca.
So they received my intake and decided it wasn't worth their time to fix and offered to sell me a new one at a discount. No, long story short, they sent me a new one free, although “they” did a lot of whining and crying over it. I was told the 2131 was back ordered and it would be about a month before it would arrived.
When it did arrive the first thing I did was put a straight edge on it, driver side was straight as can be just like the previous one, passenger side was off again 007, 008, and 010 thousands towards the middle in spots. It wasn't as bad as the one I sent back but not the quality I was expecting. Basically it's spring load, when they have the manifold clamped down and release one side.
I called them and they said the rtv will make up the difference. The valley pan and rtv made up the difference for about 8 month on the first one before it started to leak. My 78 has the same 2131 manifold and it leaked in the same spot. I plan to detail the install here for future reference.
I laid some paper towels in the lifter galley and sprayed some wd40 on the paper to catch the debris from the old rtv. I also stuffed paper in the ports as well.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_21251_zpswpoa1etq.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_21251_zpswpoa1etq.jpg.html)
Gave it a good cleaning
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26871_zps3blvu5y6.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26871_zps3blvu5y6.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26881_zpshllesodj.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26881_zpshllesodj.jpg.html)
I coated the head surface and cylinder side of the valley pan
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26901_zpszddyxfqm.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26901_zpszddyxfqm.jpg.html)
I installed the valley pan and coated the intake side as well
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26911_zpsinygrodu.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26911_zpsinygrodu.jpg.html)
Installed the heat shield and coated the intake ports
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26921_zpschcjd4h5.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26921_zpschcjd4h5.jpg.html)
Built a china wall in place of the rubber gaskets
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26931_zpsf3bua2ta.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26931_zpsf3bua2ta.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26941_zps0wcx6ytb.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26941_zps0wcx6ytb.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26981_zpsqadi5xv0.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26981_zpsqadi5xv0.jpg.html)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26991_zpsmmzdiy05.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_26991_zpsmmzdiy05.jpg.html)
My engine meter has 7 hours on it with about 2 hours of that being key on engine off for electrical diagnostics.
I'll wait at least 24 hours if not longer to cure the rtv.
I had to buy a new pcv grommet, edelbrok hasn't updated it's part numbers on their instruction sheet so I did my own research.
The grommet size is ID: 0.604"; O.D.: 1.282"; Thickness: 0.453"
Part #'s all the same size, any one will work for 2131 manifold 360/304 engine
DORMAN 42063
Airtex part #2P1000
AMC 3225627
BWD PCV918
Standard Motor Products GV7
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While I had the antifreeze drained I decided to remove my leaky block heater.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27011_zpskvbvxlvb.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27011_zpskvbvxlvb.jpg.html)
Their not as easy as removing a expansion plug (freeze plug), but with some patients it's not bad.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27021_zps1glblyoh.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27021_zps1glblyoh.jpg.html)
I used a magnet and some rags to cleaned out the port, then sanded the mating surface. I added some sealant and used a socket to install the brass expansion plug.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27031_zpskvbx0yow.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/ChuckR/media/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_27031_zpskvbx0yow.jpg.html)
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:clap:
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Of another matter, my 78 360 FI is running a little rich at idle or crawling down hills offroad so I had howell burn me another chip. The three other chips they burnt were for under load. I believe this one will get it right. I installed it today so I'll take it on a test run tomorrow night.
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awesome chuck!
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Thanks,
Reinstalled the distributor, set timing, and tuned the carb.
Click on pic for video
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/th_IMG_2758_zpsu6rizy1n.mp4) (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d77/ChuckR/Jeeps%20owned/79%20cj5%201%20ton%20build/IMG_2758_zpsu6rizy1n.mp4)
On a side note: I installed another chip in my 78 cj7 360. The idle was smoother, ran good, but a bit lean through 800-1200rpm range. Howell suggested I increase the fuel pressure by adjusting the regulator, I told them it would then change the block learn numbers overall. He agreed, and will be writing me a new chip (the 5th one). I told him if he could target the new chip between my current chip and the previous chip I should be go.
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with all those chips you just need some salsa!