New England Jeepz
General Category => Builds => Topic started by: Twisty on November 14, 2010, 03:45:12 PM
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First some pics of the MJ beside Ian's TJ.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4019.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4020.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4021.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4022.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4023.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4024.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4025.jpg)
Ian using the plasma cutter to remove some brackets from the 14b.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4026.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4027.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4028.jpg)
14b all stripped of brackets
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4029.jpg)
60 beginning bracket removal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4030.jpg)
As it sits now...waiting to be worked on again. :'(
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4031.jpg)
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what the heck are you doin? :D
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Jeeesh I am never going to get my jack stands back................ ::)
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Those are mine, thankyouverymuch.
Yours are sitting beside the workbench. ::)
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what the heck are you doin? :D
Rear 4 link, airshocks on all 4 corners, cage, lowering ~3 inches.
FWIW, the belly height at the lowest point was at 25.25" before we started the tear down.
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man you two kill me .
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tony, iFab would like renew our borrowing of your jackstand ;D
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better be a winch included in this build!!! ::)
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better be a winch included in this build!!! ::)
haha tim doesn't want to be "that guy" anymore!
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Yes, I am going to be sure that I include a winch. ;D
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i look like a bad mother cutting off those brackets :hick:
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tony, iFab would like renew our borrowing of your jackstand ;D
yeah well I am going to be difficult, you need to bring them back so i can re-stamp your borrow card.
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yay!!!
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so tim and ian...
ya your welcome ::)
see you thursday
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quote from jon, twisty: "if tim doesn't put a winch on that thing i am going to ridicule him relentlessly"
i have seen the ridicule he is referring to, please put a winch on it this time
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do suck down winches count?
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quote from jon, twisty: "if tim doesn't put a winch and a real cage on that thing i am going to ridicule him relentlessly"
i have seen the ridicule he is referring to, please put a winch on it this time
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The MJ will be getting a full roll cage made from 1.75x.120 DOM. I have 8.5 sticks, with access to 2-3 more. In total I will have access to ~240' of DOM. The MJ is getting a MAJOR chop-job (cab removal/boatsides) and will be re-worked from the radiator back. At this point in time it is completely unsafe to wheel (hard), because if it rolls, the passengers WILL be seriously injured/killed. Both a-pillars are bent, and the cab is beginning to crush in. When I sit in it normally, my shoulder/elbow stick out the side. I also have a pair of suspension seats that I am putting in. 4 point harnesses are going in too.
When the MJ is done, it will be lower, safer, more stable, and more fun. And it will have a winch.
So don't ridicule me yet!! ::)
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You should have seen the looks I was getting at the Fall Crawl when Brad & Kazu realized I had no winch. I think they held back ;D
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I can't wait to see how this turns out!
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Winter is upon us....there won't be any chesnuts roasting on Tim's open fire....maybe some jeep parts :fire:
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You should have seen the looks I was getting at the Fall Crawl when Brad & Kazu realized I had no winch. I think they held back ;D
i could tell you what they thought if you really wanted to know? they are good friends of mine
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this is the point where if time brought out his solid works drawing of his build finished he would blow everyone away!
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You should have seen the looks I was getting at the Fall Crawl when Brad & Kazu realized I had no winch. I think they held back ;D
i could tell you what they thought if you really wanted to know? they are good friends of mine
I know they wanted to ditch me in the field if they could LOL
Funny party I was one of only 3 that made it up the steep hill on Elm Street (Kazu, Supazuk & myself) ended up being a non issue ;D
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sweet story dude
Tim, can't wait :saw:
technically, all the solid work sketches are just doddles on the bent and twisted sheet metal on the MJ
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Yay for rough sketches!!!
John- bring sawzall blades. I'm going to try to get a few tomorrow. Chop-Chop!!
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Yay for rough sketches!!!
John- bring sawzall blades. I'm going to try to get a few tomorrow. Chop-Chop!!
i'm going to get some consumables for the plasma cutter this afternoon :axe:
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In that case, you can finish working on the 60 coil bucket removal. 8) 8)
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Tim's mj's got a sweet sun roof now!
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PICS GDAMMIT!
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4032.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4035.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4033.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4034.jpg)
And we started on a truss.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4036.jpg)
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Still a lot of cutting to do. ::)
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Windshield was a [censored]
where you still there when Ian got back?
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Yes, I was there till 12:00ish.
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lol, poor truck.
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the first picture looks like mitch's old truck. haha
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you mean Tony's old truck.... :D
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haha yup...and then the half dozen people who have owned it since!
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all that work over the past few years Tim and nw this :D
Is there gonna be any MJ left to it? Why even use that portion. It's basically just a floor par and firewall . Why not go tube all the way?
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Nov 2006
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_1558.jpg)
May 2008
(https://newenglandjeepz.org/forum/gallery/4_19_05_08_6_37_06.jpg)
Early Nov 2010
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4023.jpg)
Mid Nov 2010
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4033.jpg)
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And we started on a truss.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4036.jpg)
Copy cat :finger:
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/0611072315.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/0611072315a.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/0611072315b.jpg)
Jason.
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Jason,
I mentioned that last night when this got started, Timmy said you went into the future and copied him ;D
Big D.. there is still a lot more that needs to be cut off, it's kind staying the way it is till all the glass can be vacumned up (made an aweful mess)
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Jason,
I mentioned that last night when this got started, Timmy said you went into the future and copied him ;D
LOL,
Its proven design and Tim dont forget to tie it all into the front pinion gaurd. I made a ring that its tied into, but you have that cool gaurd, use it.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/0623071336.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/0623071336a.jpg)
Jason.
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Yeah, I think I might tie it into the pinion guard. I just need to find some thicker material and make a bridge.
BigD- Yes, I'm going to cut more. For me at this point in time it is cheaper to do it this way. I have a starter vehicle with axles and a drivetrain already mounted. In order to swap everything from the MJ over to a buggy I would need a lot more money and time. I do not have a surplus of either. :'(
I do plan to build a full on buggy someday. But I hope to NEVER get rid of the MJ.
I guess I need a new name for it...there isn't really any MJ left. :( :(
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Yeah, I think I might tie it into the pinion guard. I just need to find some thicker material and make a bridge.
I used 1/4", but i think it was 588. 1/4" A36 would be fine but I also added two 1.5" bars on the side. That should be plenty, if not I got some 3/8" you can have. Just let me know the demensions if you want and I can slice you a chunk.
Jason.
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Thanks for the offer. I have some 3/8, but I need to rebuild my front truss. If I don't have enough left over I will be in touch!!
Thanks Jason!
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nice xj twisty, cause like you said it is not really an mj anymore ;D
lokks good
are you going to try and reinstall the bed sides? atleast it would still be "sort of" an mj
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i like the time line of pictures. ;D
for now its just a piece of sheet metal with a motor, but i know what you can do, and i cant wait to see it when its done!
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this thread has been inspiration also for this build
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10918406&postcount=8
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I'm not a suspension expert but the vertical separation at both ends of the rear suspension look awfully close.
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My truss is higher than his. I will have plenty of separation. 8)
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Great fab day!! Thanks to Ian, Tony, and John for all their help!!
First the wiring was removed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4041.jpg)
Then the truss was built and mostly finished.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4045.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4044.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4046.jpg)
Then we did some cutting, and boatside mockups. This is where they will go, but they will be frenched into the body about 1".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4042.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4043.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4040.jpg)
That's all for this week!!
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:saw: MOAR
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You bet!! Still have to finish chopping the frame.
Next week I'm going to finalize the placement of the boatsides, and get some supports tacked in. 8) 8)
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:woot:
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I still think the boat sides should be flush with the inner portion of the A-pillar and not just an inch in.
Just will look a lot cleaner and will add more structural rigidity to the other parts once they are tied in as we discussed.
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tim, your mj is gone. no one will recognize it when its done. you planning on being ready for the plunge?
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I still think the boat sides should be flush with the inner portion of the A-pillar and not just an inch in.
Just will look a lot cleaner and will add more structural rigidity to the other parts once they are tied in as we discussed.
I'm going to reevaluate the width. I don't want it to be a barge on wheels...but I don't want to rub shoulders with trees.
tim, your mj is gone. no one will recognize it when its done. you planning on being ready for the plunge?
No, I do not think it will be done. A roller, possibly. But wheelable, no. :(
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thats why you put in door bars, if your door bars got out 3/4" to compensate for that difference, it's not really a huge amount. we'll toss a seat in next week and feel it out.. or two weeks when ever.
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Frenched into the body - lol
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Timanche... ;D
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Timanche... ;D
iFaboulous
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Timanche... ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOnqjkJTMaA
go straight to 7:00....
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this just got gay-rotic.. stop it
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Someone buy my steering ram!!!
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You could sell all that steel off the mj and tj you guys cut off for some spare cash ;)
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timI really wish you hadn't done this........I am positive if given the chance i would have bought that thing off you the way it sat. you would have had $$ to build a buggy and you would have been able to see it wheel in still drive it whenever you wanted. it just saddens me to see it in this state. no matter how you build it it will still be hard to beat what you had. just my input ;D
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It's his rig he can build it any way he wants....
But I really like the beat up look that jeep had. I think I would have tried to make a cage inside the cab to make it safe. I am sure what ever tim comes up with will be spiffy
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I am glad to see Tim spend hard earned money in his youth on his toys and hobbies because it all gets taken from you when you tie the knot. If not taken.....stripped to the bare essensials as other bills and expenses take hold of your life. Keep us busy this winter with lots of pics and progress Tim. A lot of us live our dreams through your builds :cheers:
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Someone buy my steering ram!!!/quote]
Uhh I got $20 in my wallet ;D ;D ;D
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Uhh I got $20 in my wallet ;D ;D ;D
Richer than me!! ;D
I'm looking into going with a double ended ram now. I'm going to rebuild the front truss, and had always planned to eventually go with a double ended ram. I have one picked out...I just need to sell my current steering parts to get the money for the ram.
I'm also going to put my doubler in now. 4:1 with twin sticks...here I come!!
And don't believe that I am not sad about the current state of the Jeep. I loved it the way it was, and quite frankly I would not have sold it for a reasonable asking price. Call me a softy, but I love it too much. ::)
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ROCK THIS BUILD! I bet its done before my cj :)
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ROCK THIS BUILD! I bet its done before my cj :)
Why??? What are you doing to that POS now?!? ;D ;D
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Only to make it idle right, but im lazy. Started on the belly skids this weekend, and they are coming nicely.
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Get it fixed and take it to Mabell in a couple of weeks. 8)
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I'd like to, gotta fix my front DS which seems to have blown a u-joint cap and the idle.
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I have one of these on the way. 8) 8)
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6688&catname=hydraulic
Can't wait to get it in and play with a double ended ram.
To get it I sold my ram, hoses, and reservoir. I have spoken with a fellow member, and he's going to build me a custom reservoir to fit my application better. I will also be going with the PSC rebuildable hose ends.
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Hey Tim, I spent the last hour on MS Paint drawing this for you. I guess Its a starting point for a safe cage and should give you something to do with your 8 miles of tube you have on Ians floor :)
dont worry i was getting payed to do it so you dont owe me anything wooot
Its tough to make one end from another so i used diff colors.
the one spot that looks wierd is the light blue and the brown line that is the cross bar behind the seats and the seatbelt mounting bar. i think the rest is easier to follow another thing i didn't do is make bends i have hard corners because its easier than makeing every joint bent but you get the general idea of where you could place tube.
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i238/HeyzipupyourflyYJ/WORTHLESS%20JIB/TIMSCAGE.jpg)
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I have one of these on the way. 8) 8)
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6688&catname=hydraulic
Can't wait to get it in and play with a double ended ram.
To get it I sold my ram, hoses, and reservoir. I have spoken with a fellow member, and he's going to build me a custom reservoir to fit my application better. I will also be going with the PSC rebuildable hose ends.
You sold it? thats too bad...... ::)
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Yeah, I think the guy who bought it is in WAY over his head. ::)
;D ;D ;D
Tony- That's not quite what I had in mind, but its darn funny!! I think I might use that front fender idea...its kind of neat. 8)
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Yeah, I think the guy who bought it is in WAY over his head. ::)
;D ;D ;D
:'(
True....but its more fun that way ;D
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Tony- That's not quite what I had in mind, but its darn funny!! I think I might use that front fender idea...its kind of neat. 8)
funny like a clown or funny like haha?
What exactly did you have in mind Tim? Thats the impression I got the other day when we were talking. now I'm really confused as to which way you are going with this build :/
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(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i238/HeyzipupyourflyYJ/WORTHLESS%20JIB/TIMSCAGE.jpg)
Looks like a unicorn Poohed a rainbow on Tims truck
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Tony- I'm more after a buggy look. I'm not going to have any rear frame...just toooooob!
I got a little done tonight.
I started making a front truss. It is really hard to get the shape of the diff....I have a few gaps to fill with some weld. I will be getting a pound of nickel rod to weld to the housing. I have the backside cut out too, but I didn't take a pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4051.jpg)
Then I got the boatsides squared up. The width of the boatsides is 62.125. The entire thing is pretty darn square....so close that I'm not going to mess with it anymore. Please disregard the mess. ::)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4049.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4050.jpg)
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awesome! I love when I click this and there's progress and pictures and not something gay! :D
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Wish I could come over and help..
Oh I need mt notcher back for a little.
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It is really hard to get the shape of the diff
Thats why I use so much cardboard ;D
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It is really hard to get the shape of the diff
Thats why I use so much cardboard ;D
I preffer posterboard and masking tape, you can just cut styraight peieces and tape them to gether
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I used a lot of cardboard.
I will try the poster board next time. I like the idea of cutting, and taping to get a better fit!
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I used a lot of cardboard.
I will try the poster board next time. I like the idea of cutting, and taping to get a better fit!
Use the cover next time, trace that. Its real close to the contour of the housing.
Jason.
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That's what I actually ended up doing. :)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/1207001455.jpg)
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very nice ;D
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You'll have time to work on this soon twisty. You're a December Graduate correct?
I'll have to stop by and check it out
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You'll have time to work on this soon twisty. You're a December Graduate correct?
I'll have to stop by and check it out
Yeah, 2 more days left!!
I'd love to have you come check it out. Maybe once exams are over, and I can resume working on it more frequently. I will be in touch!! 8)
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Dude thats more exciting than this build! CONGRADULATIONS!
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Congrats Tim! :woot:
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wow 2 days left...congrats on that buddy.
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I'll be the voice of sanity here... congrats on finishing but... I would go back if I were you, Your probably chomping at the bit to get a full time job and make some money, fund your projects etc..
the real world sucks, stay in college, there are a couple things that make college the best time in your life
1. College Girls
2.
3.
4.
5.
OK so I only had 1..
Congrats Bud, now get a job you lazy bum ;D
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Well I just ordered a doubler kit. ::)
Once that is in, I can begin on the rear suspension.
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your a mad man
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I used a lot of cardboard.
I will try the poster board next time. I like the idea of cutting, and taping to get a better fit!
Its real easy that way for sure, you can use little chunks and just straight runs. you dont HAVE to make your template out of one big piece of board, thats the key
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tim did you run out of shielding gas?
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your back? can I finially come over and use my notcher ???
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tim did you run out of shielding gas?
Yes. It lasted about a minute.
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your back? can I finially come over and use my notcher ???
yes and sure
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I had a little free time today, so I stripped the 203 down to bare bones. The stupid thing still weighs probably 60-70 lbs.
Next step is to install my "new" transmission, and figure out the clocking of the 203. I was originally going to run it upside down, but now I think I'm going to run it as one would run a passenger drop transfer case.
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I took a few pics of the 'new' transfercases. I put a 231 shell in there to get a comparison for size. Even though it doesn't look it, the 205 is a lot bigger.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4052.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4053.jpg)
I'm waiting for the pressure washer hose to thaw so I can wash these cases and get them painted.
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might be a while.....temps supposed to hit about 25 degrees only the next few days ::)
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It would take a while if the washer wasn't sitting inside warming up. ;D
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are you keeping stock low gearing for now?
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Yeah I am. No one makes a 3:1 kit for either the 203 or the Ford 205.
These two cases are 2:1 each, for a total of 4:1. My crawl ratio will be ~90:1 when its done.
If a 3:1 kit for the 203 existed, I'd probably get it.
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Get the Low-Max for the Chevy 205 and flip the case over.
Jason.
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They don't make GM lo-max anympre either.
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They don't make GM lo-max anympre either.
Really, well thats not cool.
What about a 241/205. That would give you close to a 5.5-1 crawl.
Jason.
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i seriously doubt you wil need any more gearing than 4.1 with 5.38 axle gears when running an automatic. just not needed in new england type 4 wheeling
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Got the 23 spline AW4 in, and cut the floor to test 203 fitment. Its going to be WAY up there. Higher than the 231. ;D
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late night eh?
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Yeah, I got home about 10 mins ago. Going to bed soon.
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you must be cold.. I thought it would have been warmer in there but I learned my lesson though.
Glad you got it done! see you next thursday
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Thanks for coming, and thanks for the beer, John!! :)
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i'm still cold from last night!
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wish I lived closer, I feel left out. :( :D
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wish I lived closer, I feel left out. :( :D
if you spent the evening in your freezer, you would have felt like you were standing right there with us!
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iFAB needs this
(http://www.treehugger.com/amish-heater.jpg)
the fireplace and the fake amish workforce
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they could certainly build timmy a sweet wooden bumper and skidplate!!
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:woot: :woot:
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Solid knuckles/steering arms ordered.
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iFAB needs this
(http://www.treehugger.com/amish-heater.jpg)
the fireplace and the fake amish workforce
haha.... i sell those at work
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Solid knuckles/steering arms ordered.
Bling for the front, or are you going Miguel on us? ;D
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Not quite. ;D Just trying to do everything the "right" way so I don't have to go back and re-do it later.
Solid knuckles are substantially cheaper than the Dedenbear units, and have the key-way for the steering arms.
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buy a winch yet?
the 4:1 with the aw4 and 5.38 will be perfect for around here, any more than that and it will drive through the brakes. (still may) I run 50:1 with 37's. you will be at 60:1 with bigger tires.
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Not quite. ;D Just trying to do everything the "right" way so I don't have to go back and re-do it later.
Solid knuckles are substantially cheaper than the Dedenbear units, and have the key-way for the steering arms.
but the hi-steer arms cost twice as much, they get you one way or another...
I prefer the solid knuckles as well.
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Actually...the arms do not cost twice as much. I paid $295 shipped. $300 is the average for a good set of arms. A pair of 8" Ballistic arms is $315!!
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0015.jpg)
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0016.jpg)
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That was 10th hours in the cold shop today. I absolutely love stick welding
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Artec arms are almost $400 with the 6 bolts, and milled for the key-way!!
http://www.artecindustries.com/Ultimate-Dana-60-High-Steer-Arms--Pair_p_154.html
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Front truss done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4056.jpg)
Rear truss....different angle than Ian's pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4054.jpg)
Rear of rear truss showing the tie-in to the housing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4055.jpg)
The rear truss is tied in 2 places. The pinion guard, and welded to the housing with Ni55. The front truss is very strong, and welded with 19 sticks of Ni55, and peened during cooling.
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Looks great!
What primer did you use? I'm asking because it looks like RM primer.
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It is rusty metal primer from Rustoleum. I ran out of the clean metal stuff...and it is all I had.
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Just a note if it matters, the RM has fish oil in it and doesn't stick well to clean metal.
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I did nor know that. Thanks for the information, Chuck!
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looks good Tim
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Boat sides 90% welded in. A pillars are bent. I need to get the doubler in so I can get the seats in. Then the rest of the cage will come along rather quickly.
I took a few pics. I will post them a little later
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I like how the pinion guard ties into the truss. Was that a custom made piece or something from Ruff Stuff, Ballistic...?
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100% pure custom
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Pinion guard is RuffStuff. The truss is pure iFab and affiliates. ;D
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looking spiffy gent's , keep up the good work.
-jerry
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For starters, we have the boatsides. 1 support is not yet welded, and 1 support still needs to be added.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4058.jpg)
Start of A pillar. We made it too long because I do not yet know where my seats are going to go, and we didn't want it to be to low.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4059.jpg)
And my doubler came!!!
203/205 adapter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4063.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4064.jpg)
Re-splined 203 main shaft.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4060.jpg)
PTO cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4062.jpg)
205 re-seal. I also bought a $65 re-seal kit from NWF...but I'm only going to need about 3 things from it. HUGE waste of money. ::)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4061.jpg)
And I have 4 of these babies to press into some DOM to use as crossmember mount bushings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4065.jpg)
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Nice to see that adapter has some ajustability
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It is actually more adjustable than you know. The two pieces are unwelded, allowing me to get the 203 where I want it, and then clock the 205, and weld the plates together. It is the best way to get a custom orientation, IMHO.
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Who resplined the main shaft?
Good progress!
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I got the doubler from this guy.
http://www.jedsmachining.com/index.html
The doubler adapter, 205 re-seal kit, and re-splined main shaft was $530 shipped. I feel that it was a great deal.
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LIVE UPDATE
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0025.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0026.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0027.jpg)
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http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/VIDEO0001.mp4
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I am seriously jealous of that work space, just saying.
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0029.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0032.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0034.jpg)
To build a doubler.
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0038.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0036.jpg)
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8)
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0040.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0039.jpg)
TIM can add captions to all of these pictures.all but this post today were while in the shop.
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Man that is going to be one big heavy bastard, no need for water in the tires!
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one of the problems is packaging everything in the cab. Tim spent some time shaving the 203 and the seat still is hard to fit comfortably in the drivers compartment.
my estimates is that it will weigh about the same than it did just before it was cut up based soley on the amount of material removed and what is being added.
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Looking good Tim! I like all the live updates from Ian!
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Stay tuned for more live updates tomorrow. ;D
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IM TUNED IN!
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Lol....Ian was lazy yesterday. ;D
I took some pics at the end. We got a lot of work done! A pillars are in, both B pillars, and 4 spreader bars are in. Its really taking shape!!!
I will get some pics up a little later. :)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4068.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4069.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4067.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4071.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4070.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4073.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4072.jpg)
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The guy in the last picture looks cold :fire:
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Thursday?
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4075.jpg)
These were the last 2 Ford knuckles in stock. The rest are a month out. I will just paint the other one to match.
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pretty!
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those things just look expensive....build looks great
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no king pin pre load adjusters
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They retain the use of the springs.
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We need a bling smiley
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:bling:
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:bling:
I love i!!
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In order to do this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4083.jpg)
I had to do this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4081.jpg)
Which resulted in this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4082.jpg)
That will be the 205 support. It will tie into the rear suspension crossmember. It is not done yet...still need to clean the edges. The 205 is also back together. I also have the 203 crossmember mostly done...just need to level it, and final weld all the little tabs.
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Did you finish the doubler?
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Not yet. Still working on the 203 crossmember, and the 205 support. I hope to have it sitting without the aid of any jacks or jack stands by the end of the day. 8)
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Looking good tim.
For future referennce the ALU cover that holds the front output shaft bearing is the same pattern as the rear tail cone. So to transfer the hole's ( I know its all ready done ) you could use the ALU cover plate.
You didn't want to use the stock Ford mount on the side of the case? Using that doe's two things help supports the case and keeps the tourqe from twisting it. I know thats the other reasion for the HD mount your working on, just tossing out a few more idea's.
Jason.
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Thanks Jason!
The way I have it clocked, it would have been impossible to mount the seat. I'll be practically sitting on the case when it is all said and done.
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Thanks Jason!
The way I have it clocked, it would have been impossible to mount the seat. I'll be practically sitting on the case when it is all said and done.
I hope you have at least 6-8"s of clearance? If its to close a hard smak on a rock or bottom out and you could hurt your back, bad.
This was one resion I sold my old chassie, the 205 was going to punch the passenger in butt. The new owner has the same drivetrain as what the buggy is set up for, a smaller T-case.
Jaason.
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at best, the clearence between the case and seat is about 2".
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-Front LCAs extended 6".
-New front UCA made with 1.5x.250 DOM and 7/8x3/4 heims.
-205 support finalized.
-Rear crossmember welded to larger plate, which is welded to the frame.
-2 supporting tubes welded to the rear crossmember, and tie into frame.
-D60 stripped, and under Jeep for mockup.
New wheelbase will be 114-115.
Pics tomorrow.
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WANT! TOMORROW!
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Another chilly fab day.
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First we made these racks to get the DOM off of the floor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4092.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4091.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4093.jpg)
Front control arms.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4094.jpg)
My little table 'o parts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4098.jpg)
Front axle under Jeep.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4097.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4096.jpg)
Rear crossmember fab.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4095.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4100.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4099.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4101.jpg)
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looks good tim! glad to see your making progress!!
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looking good Tim!!
It must be cold as [censored] out there!
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Yeah, Ian was frozen, so he welded while I ran around and did little things. ;D
Thanks guys. :)
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poor little things :(
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question, just lengthening the links, any risk of drastically altering the suspensions geometry or perhaps causing contact issues?
IIRC, you had an issue with possible contact with the upper link and the sub frame, in my mind, if you lengthen the link, you could increase the risk of that contact occuring, or does it change the angle in the opposite direction? (away from hte sub frame)
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Good questions! IMHO, longer links are better for suspension geometry. With the airshocks, I will be lower, which will make the links flatter at ride height. The longer links also mean that the axle won't swing as much when traveling. The longer links allow me to have more up-travel without hitting the frame. I am concerned about this issue though (with the lower links, not upper). I have more travel than before, but it might not be enough. I might need to clearance the frame some more to get the axle as high as possible. :)
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lookin good Timbobmeboy. ;)
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0079.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0080.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0081.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f161/ioman2/IMAG0082.jpg)
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wow, looks great!
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wow, looks great!
those last 4 pics look like its a tiny model.
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Teenie weenie. ;D
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you boys must have worked late..looks good ! my toes had thawed out about the time i reached the braintree split :fire:
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I got home at 11:30.
Thanks for coming up. It was fun to hang out with you yesterday. 8)
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thanks tim, i had fun...i needed to get up there, it had been a while..
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Thanks for coming up. It was fun to hang out with you yesterday. 8) watch you work on ian's rig
8)
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Here's where we are after tonight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4106.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4107.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4108.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4109.jpg)
I don't really like how the rear tubework looks now. I'm hoping that it will come together when I tie the roof bars into the back. The 4 link is all squared up, and the axle is perfectly centered.
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Tim its starting to come together for you. and i think once the roof bars are tied in it will give it a totally different look then it does now. I like it!!!!!
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looks a lot shorter than i thought you were gonna make it,
but i like it ! gonna be badass!! 8)
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I love the steering wheel, adds so much character to the build. ;D
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Are you going to make a mount for the spare?
how about fluids containers?
Looking good so far.
How about the fuel cell.
Looks like you wont have too much of an issue if you add steering down the line
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Are you going to make a mount for the spare?
how about fluids containers?
Looking good so far.
How about the fuel cell.
Looks like you wont have too much of an issue if you add steering down the line
I don't have a spare yet, and honestly....I think I'll just keep it in the truck. Lugging a 42" around is pretty difficult, and heavy!
I have not thought about fluid containers. I'll probably get one of those caddies that holds 1 quart jugs.
I want a small 10 gallon fuel cell with an external pump and Walbro fuel pickups.
And yes, I have room for the steering down the line. :)
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Looks cookie cutter mj chop job :john:
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Tim I was over yesterday and Its looking good, how you guys get anything done there without heat is beyond me. I HAVE heat and havent found the ambition to work on mine haha
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You're just lazy I guess. :finger:
Thanks for the kind words. You going to stop by tomorrow? :)
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maybe, if I dont work i might stop by
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I might swing by tonight
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ok
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4113.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4112.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4111.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4110.jpg)
The tubework in the rear needs a little tweaking before I can mount both shocks in the same spot. It is coming together! And I like how the rear looks now!!
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me too,
sorry i didn't get by today, I got my new notcher in the mail and had to get that mounted and setup so i can use it.
I'm hoping to finally be bending tube again this weekend. if you guys are around fri or sunday you should stop up I'll throw some venison steaks in the skillet (a nice little perk of having woodfired heat in your garage) ;D
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Tony, if you need "help" hooking up a trailer or something friday night, let me know.. ;)
Sorry I didn't get over there last night, hope you got word from my text, Wife Button Hooked me... I got home from work and she literally walked right out and goes Bye, see you later... I was like WTF..
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Tony, if you need "help" hooking up a trailer or something friday night, let me know.. ;)
Sorry I didn't get over there last night, hope you got word from my text, Wife Button Hooked me... I got home from work and she literally walked right out and goes Bye, see you later... I was like WTF..
i spent half the night putting my diff cover and lube locker on. tim fabbed like a mad man while i stood infront of the heater.
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Tim, if you don�t mind me asking what is the estimated DIY cost of going from rear leaf to link? Do you have any special plans for the rig when complete?
Your build looks impressive!
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Wow Timbo. Chugga chugga choo choo. That MJ is looking super spiffy these days. Nice work!
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posi, if you ordered ballistic joints and ruffstuff hiems and the required adapters, you would be at $400 without shipping for the joints alone. then you need link material and brackets. you would need a half stick of 2" and a half stick of 1.75 or 1.5" for uppers. ($4-6/ft maybe) tim doesn't really any money into his cross member. $30ish into the "batwing" lower control arm bracket at the crossmember from ballistic and $6 in tube flanges. his lower arm axle bracket is $32ish from ballistic and the rest is cheap-o tabs from misc people. you could make them but its easier to buy it. he made his truss out of 1.75" that was on hand. but he did buy new airshocks so there goes his cheap image....
but the dead sexiness of his double trianglated rear is pricless. :-*
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i am blown away...you guys are rocking this build... 8)
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Thanks guys! I'm having a blast building this thing. ;D
Chuck, 4 links aren't as cheap as leaf springs.
To piggyback on what Ian said......
The large cost of the 4 link is in the suspension joints. Ballistic joints go for $52, the tube adapters from RuffStuff are $10, and the jam nuts from RuffStuff are $2.50. That's $64.50 before shipping. Lets say $70 shipped. I used 4. That comes out to $280. The uppers use 7/8 shank x 3/4 bore heim joints. These generally go for about $18. The heim joints also need high misalignment spacers to give the joint more flex, and to step the bolt down to 9/16 or 5/8 (I use 5/8 on the uppers). These are about $4 each for steel, and $7 each for stainless. You need 2 per joint, or 8 total. Like the ballistic joints, the heims need tube adapters and jam nuts. $10 for tube adapters, and $2 for jam nuts. For all the hardware (joint included), I'm at $52 before shipping. Lets say $60 shipped. I'm at $240 for the upper joints. The link material is ~$4/foot for the uppers and ~$10/foot for the lowers. I used 4 feet of each. $112 for links.
Just to get the links together, my cost is $632. There are ways to get the cost down, but it comes at a cost (no pun intended). You still have to factor in the cost of link mounts and shocks/springs. My airshocks were $540 shipped to my door.
I hope that gives you an idea of putting together a link suspension. It sounds expensive, and it is, but it gives way better performance than any leaf spring setup.
And my plans for my rig? I just want to have fun. I actually enjoy building more than wheeling (sometimes :D). There were a lot of problems with my old setup that I did not like at all. Now is my chance to change those. When this is done, I am going to enjoy it for a while, then begin a new project. I hope to never sell this rig. It has too much sentimental value to me. ;D
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Thanks for the info it was very helpful. The reason I ask is because I plan down the road to stretch my 5 (my most recent 5 purchase) by either cutting the frame midsection and using leafs or go link, but that�s another story for anther time. Again, thanks.
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I will echo that, I actually like building just as much, if not more than wheeling.
But I still like wheeling.
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I will echo that, I actually like building just as much, if not more than wheeling.
But I still like wheeling.
i like to wheel more. i only work on my jeep when there is someone else to talk to ;D
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Well today sucked. I spent WAY too long on this driver's side shock hoop. It still sucks, but I am done with it. The Jeep is now officially a roller in the back. And the cage is mostly welded now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4115.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4116.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4117.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4118.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4119.jpg)
Neither the shocks, or the suspension binds when flexing. The shocks do not max out their misalignment (which I was worried about). I think next time I'm going to completely weld the rear suspension.
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you working during the day tommorow tim? if so give me a call when your heading over maybe i'll stop by. there is a lot of load put into the end of those shocks, you prob would have been better just going up and extra inch directly onto the horizontal bar and then rotating that "shock hoop" bar up and connecting the lower and mid bars together right near the shock. would be stronger.
the closer it is to the union of the for/aft bar that goes to the top of the B pillar. I see that shock hoop doing a lot of twisting the way it is bent.
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if I went higher, the shock would be extended too far at ride height. I am going to brace it to the top hoop anyways.
No I'm not working on it tomorrow....er, today. If you take a look at it on Saturday, please be aware that there are some really terrible welds. I do intend to clean those up and re-do them. They're not permanent!!
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Working on the front portion of the MJ.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4121.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4122.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4123.jpg)
Nothing is welded because I do not know if it is exactly the path I want to follow.
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if that is the path it looks good from the picture
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Thanks Steve. I actually like the lines right now. The main issue that I see with it this way is that it is about 2" above the cowl. This means that the stock hood will not work. If I lower it to where I originally wanted it, I think that it looks stupid because it does not follow the lines of the cage. Also in this arrangement, visibility is down a little.
Any other input?
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Build a flat hood with a scoop for the supercharged v8 this beast needs!
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Keep those lines and get some kind of fiberglass hood!
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if it makes visibilty poor-er then change the design
you didn't build this thing to make it wirse did you?
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i would make the bars look good while also keeping them out of your sight line, the body work is easy to fix, cut the hood or make a new one. but like todd said, make it better not worse. but its hard to say what to do just from looking at a picture. Do what you think is best for you!
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Visability is a lot better than when it was full bodied. Tims concerns are asthetics about re-using the stock hood. My suggestion the other night was to build it strong and ;D ;Dfunctional. Any junkyard hood could be made to fit... I suggested a lexus hood
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Don't you fancy yourself an engineer? FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION.
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i have to agree, It can't look like a pile of shyt. I think it looks good now, but don't take that function before form thing too close to heart because there is nothing worse than an ugly buggy......except an ugly buggy that doesn't work.....but i dont care if a buggy crawls all over the trail all day long, if it looks like something that was built by a summer camp, :barf:
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i have to agree, It can't look like a pile of shyt. I think it looks good now, but don't take that function before form thing too close to heart because there is nothing worse than an ugly buggy......except an ugly buggy that doesn't work.....but i dont care if a buggy crawls all over the trail all day long, if it looks like something that was built by a summer camp, :barf:
i totally agree but only when people try to build hotrods in to rock buggys, just plain fawwking ugly
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function wagon no2!
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I think it looks great tim, finish weld and put some tires on it :)
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Don't you fancy yourself an engineer? FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION.
I've been pondering this all day, and am not sure how to take it. Is it an insult, or a criticism of my current lines? Is there a problem that I should fix before I proceed?
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Don't you fancy yourself an engineer? FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION.
I've been pondering this all day, and am not sure how to take it. Is it an insult, or a criticism of my current lines? Is there a problem that I should fix before I proceed?
i think jon was saying that to john not you twisty? i could be wrong just how i read it
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Well, I guess if that was pointed to me, it is some type of criticism, but not sure of what. Considering both posts contain the same idea of the importance of strength and function.
No I do not fancy myself an engineer, don't believe I ever insinuated that I was, merely a weekend garage fabricator... hobbyist at best. I appreciate the concern.
I'm sure how ever it turns out Tim, it will be adequate both structurally and asthetically
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I'm not sure??
I'm just going to continue what what I have. Its not perfect, but its not going to fold like a taco.
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maybe he was saying you should build it for function and the form (its looks) will follow?
anyway, looks good tim!
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i totally agree but only when people try to build hotrods in to rock buggys, just plain fawwking ugly
next time i see you I'm going to kick you in the go-nads
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i totally agree but only when people try to build hotrods in to rock buggys, just plain fawwking ugly
next time i see you I'm going to kick you in the go-nads
i was going to start sh!!t talking your thread on pirate but figured i would leave it here ;D
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wow you guys get your panties all twisted up. Mitch is smart though.
The comment was directed at Tim. I think it looks fine, back half with the doulbe b pillar is strong (and cool). I don't think it will fall apart.
However The fact that you are giving up visibility (function) to make it look cooler (form) is stupid. I would build it to keep the visibility then figure out how to tie the cage in and make it look good. with some gussets or addtional short tubes.
The only thing I would suggest is make plenty of storage as there isn't a ton of room in that backhalf.
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i totally agree but only when people try to build hotrods in to rock buggys, just plain fawwking ugly
next time i see you I'm going to kick you in the go-nads
i was going to start sh!!t talking your thread on pirate but figured i would leave it here ;D
lol it'll get enough [censored] talk there
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I played around with it today, and I am going to continue to build off of the current front design. I do not lose visibility. The hood area is much narrower.
I hope to have it a roller tomorrow. I have the axle at full bump, and I can't go higher because my steering will be in the frame, and my truss hits both the oil pan and the frame. I'm looking at 3"-3.5" of up travel in the front, and 5"-6" in the rear. I will get pics tomorrow.
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i think thats more uptravel than me and ian combined.. ;D
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i think thats more uptravel than me and ian combined.. ;D
not me...i have custom inverted shackles that give me MAD flex!!
can't wait to see that rig back on the trail tim!!
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Jay, you are the master of ox cart mode. ;D
I can't wait to have it running again. ;D
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wow you guys get your panties all twisted up. Mitch is smart though.
The comment was directed at Tim. I think it looks fine, back half with the doulbe b pillar is strong (and cool). I don't think it will fall apart.
However The fact that you are giving up visibility (function) to make it look cooler (form) is stupid. I would build it to keep the visibility then figure out how to tie the cage in and make it look good. with some gussets or addtional short tubes.
The only thing I would suggest is make plenty of storage as there isn't a ton of room in that backhalf.
Please pardon previous post.. and I don't wear panties.. Thong kinda guy ;)
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wow you guys get your panties all twisted up. Mitch is smart though.
The comment was directed at Tim. I think it looks fine, back half with the doulbe b pillar is strong (and cool). I don't think it will fall apart.
However The fact that you are giving up visibility (function) to make it look cooler (form) is stupid. I would build it to keep the visibility then figure out how to tie the cage in and make it look good. with some gussets or addtional short tubes.
The only thing I would suggest is make plenty of storage as there isn't a ton of room in that backhalf.
Please pardon previous post.. and I don't wear panties.. Thong kinda guy ;)
Probably the last time I will get called smart for a while, thanks :D
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Still working on this. Just too lazy to take pictures. Front shock mounts are figured out. Kind of a weird way of doing them...but they will work fine. I have my front frame upper link mount done, and the 7/8 heim fits now. The problem I'm having now is with my upper arm clearance. If I move it out of the way of the motor mount, I hit the bellhousing. If I move it away from the bell housing, it hits the motor mount. Right now, with the arm resting on the truss I have 8" of separation at the axle. I think this is decent? I guess I have to keep the arm at 8.5"ish and notch the motor mount. We'll see......
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How late did you work last night
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half hour after you left.
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Tim I peeked in there today. looking good, clever idea on the front shock mounts looks like it'll work well. Eventually putting a cross bar connecting the top of the shocks would help to stiffen the chassis in that area.`
Didn't look at the front suspension so no input on that sorry.
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Thanks Tony! Yeah, I'll figure out a cross brace later. :)
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Tim I peeked in there today. looking good, clever idea on the front shock mounts looks like it'll work well. Eventually putting a cross bar connecting the top of the shocks would help to stiffen the chassis in that area.`
Didn't look at the front suspension so no input on that sorry.
sorry i didn't get to see ya tony, i was in a plant meeting ::)
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Tim I peeked in there today. looking good, clever idea on the front shock mounts looks like it'll work well. Eventually putting a cross bar connecting the top of the shocks would help to stiffen the chassis in that area.`
Didn't look at the front suspension so no input on that sorry.
sorry i didn't get to see ya tony, i was in a plant meeting ::)
Its okay...i got to see the tractor; tractors and big women are the only two things that make me happy so I was somewhat satisfied with my visit.
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What about cute college girls driving tractors. That's really great to see. 8)
Got a little done on the pile tonight. Figured out my upper control arm problem. I found the "sweet spot" where the arm will clear the bellhousing and motor mount with 1/4" of an inch to spare on both sides. I boxed in all of the axle control arm mounts, and I started planning the hydro ram mount. Looks like the ram will clear the crank pulley. All in all, a good day. No pics though....the pics would be a little boring, and I forgot my camera again.
I did have a little issue when bending tube. I had the tube crack in half. It might be due to a small nick that was right at the bend, but I am not sure. Split pretty rapidly at 25* of bend. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
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really? aint never seen that before. Aren't you using DOM or is that HR?
that shouldn't happen in DOM unless your metal guy gets the DOM from China. fyi Dont buy ANY steel unless its made in US..or Canada they are good to.
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oh and cute college girls are okay. I guess i would let them have sex with me, but i'de probably make them pay me.
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1020 DOM. AFAIK made in Canada. I'll get a pic. It looks like there's a nick right where the crack started. But still, I didn't think it would crack in half like that. Kind of had me nervous for a while.....maybe my Jeep is one ginormous deathtrap??
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got your message this morning twisty, sorry i didn't see you called
very strange thing you had happen there
must be a bad piece of tube. dom does have a seam so did it tear in a straight line? like running a line? i would call the tube supplier and say something. i have heard f this happening but never senn it nor had it happen to me. the "knick" you are taling about would hve to be a heck of a cut to make it split i would say
weird
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was the tube frozen?
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No, we've bent tube in the single digits. It was ~30 when this happened. I attached a few pics. You can see the nick I was talking about in one of the pics....I still don't think it was deep enough to cause this type of rip.
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split right in the middle of that nick?
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yes it did.
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why did you knick it?
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I didn't on purpose. I must have bumped it with the grinder at an earlier date..... ???
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judging by the pictures i would have to say that is the reason that split, hose are no just knicks, they are pretty deep from the looks of it. there is quite a bit of shrinking, stretching going on when you pu that over the die. i wouldn't think it would take much to make it fail
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after looking at it in person, i think that it was the 'nick' that caused the breakage.
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I wasn't there and I have not seen it but I think it was caused by unicorns and rainbows.
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Take the grinder make a small cut in another chunk of tube and try it again. Or take the same chunk of tube that split and try bending it without a cut in it.
Ive had 1020 DOM crack before like that, with no gouge's or nicks in the tube. Just a bad piece of tube, inperfections or a slag pocket when it was made, or maybe not properly heat treated. Who know's, it was all from up north not Chine tube.
Jason.
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Good idea Jason. I'll run it through the bender with another small nick to see if I can duplicate the results.
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is this thing done yet? ;D
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No. I've decided that I don't have the resources to continue. Therefore I will be parting it out. ::)
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No. I've decided that I don't have the resources to continue. Therefore I will be parting it out. ::)
you better be joking....
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i'll give you penies on the dollar for it!!!!
i will then promptly scrap all the junk you did, save the axles and build something with a real frame and a winch. the things that matter :finger:
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No. I've decided that I don't have the resources to continue. Therefore I will be parting it out. ::)
no way
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TIM is on his way over right now, its not going anywhere......
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I'll give you nickles on the dollar... Then same as above
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Well I had a few people contact me today. Not sure if they were genuinely concerned, or if they wanted parts. :finger:
Its not going anywhere. :) It was just a smartass reply to a smartass remark (Ian). ;D ;D
The fuel cell I picked up from Paul. And John's missing shock boot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4138.jpg)
Rear link mounts boxed in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4139.jpg)
Front shock mount.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4141.jpg)
And ram mount hoop. It is not done yet. I still have another plate to put on, and some diff cover modifications to make.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4140.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4142.jpg)
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Look at those bling knuckles, oh damn.
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:cheers:
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your welds look nice on the rear links!
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More pics!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4145.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4146.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4147.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4148.jpg)
At full bump, there is about 1/2" between the steering ram and the crank pulley. I bent the panhard, because I thought that I would have issues. Turns out that it will only hit at full bump. I can have a straight one at ride height and through the range of suspension travel. In the pics, the axle is drooped farther than the shock will travel, so I have no binding, and it will move around nicely!!
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With those somewhat striaght lower links make damm sure that Pan hard bar is built beefy. As it stands all your side to force is on that one bar not so much the lowers.
I was wondering why you chopped a hole in your diff cover, to clear the ram, LOL. You can stand those cylinders up if you needed to.
Jason.
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Good call. The panhard pictured is 1.25" x .120". I am not going to use my current one because I do not trust something so little doing so much work (anymore). I will get a 1.5" x .250" tube and use that with some 3/4 heims. I do not know if my next one will be bent or not. I see some issues with it being bent. I think I can get away with a straight one....but if my shocks were to fail, the panhard would bind between the frame and the diff cover.
Not sure what path I will take.
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I wouldn't worry about what happens when the shocks fail honestly. If you were very worried you could build a piece of tube that bolts in where the shock was, and drive out that way. A strait link there should be plenty strong, bending the link puts a lot of forces on everything.
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(http://englishrussia.com/images/another_car_remake/5.jpg)
Looks like you're pretty close ! :woot:
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i dont think Tims will look THAT good! :D
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(http://englishrussia.com/images/another_car_remake/5.jpg)
Looks like you're pretty close ! :woot:
cant wait to see what that bad boy can do on the trails! hahahah
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Krome, wtf is that? It has crooked headlights......
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looks like a chevy LUV truck.
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After dicking around with my seat mount for far too long, I finally welded it in. I love how the seat is placed. It offers adequate head room, allows good visibility out the side, and doesn't cramp my legs when using the pedals.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4149.jpg)
I also boxed in the boat sides. I still need to build another standoff to the frame, and trim the frame.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4150.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4152.jpg)
And then Ian helped me align these two V bars, and I got those welded in. One of them was a little close to my dash....so it has a nice burn hole now. ::)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4151.jpg)
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awesome tim. looking really good!
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its looking real good Tim. cant wait to see it done!
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Good progress! :cheers:
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looks great tim!
when do you think it's gonna be ready?
look like you're getting there!
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Thanks dudes!! Yesterday felt great. It seemed that I made some good progress on things I've been putting off forever. All the major fab work is almost done. I still have a few more things that I will have to do (build belly skid, exhaust, skin boatsides, etc) but the cage is almost done. Just some braces/gussets and it will be ready to.................roll I guess. ;D
I've reached the point that the main thing holding me back is money. I need to plumb my fuel system, brakes, steering, and transmission lines. All this will require new fittings and hose. I'm going to spend the money to get good quality stuff. I don't want to re-do any of this because of sub-par parts.
SO....if I had to guess, I'd say that it might be done in 2-3 months???
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WINCH MOUNT
[/size]
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I've reached the point that the main thing holding me back is money.
Should have worked for me ;D
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I also boxed in the boat sides. I still need to build another standoff to the frame, and trim the frame.
when did you put a frame on it? i want pictures!
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Tim, if you buy brake line by the roll and pre-bend I'll flare them for you. Thinking NEJZ express.
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I can probably get some of that brakeline cheap, the stuff my father inlaws dealership carrys, anti corrosive such and such.
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Thanks dudes!! Yesterday felt great. It seemed that I made some good progress on things I've been putting off forever. All the major fab work is almost done. I still have a few more things that I will have to do (build belly skid, exhaust, skin boatsides, etc) but the cage is almost done. Just some braces/gussets and it will be ready to.................roll I guess. ;D
so all the major fab is done ???? there is no winch mount on there!!!! no winch=that guy! :finger:
not going to let this rest. it is just sheer stupidity that you don't have a winch on there! nor do you have any provisions for one! you spend all kinds of money on redoing a front suspension (that worked fine) and yet you won't spend money on a winch!? ::)
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Dam not going easy on the power guy are you!
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Dam not going easy on the power guy are you!
had to be there to understand.
honestly even a shittybuilt 8k would be fine.
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Ahh that hamburger thingy I gather. Feel free to explain ;D
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Ahh that hamburger thingy I gather. Feel free to explain ;D
whats to explain? invite only private run. nothing more really
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Hmmm was referring to maybe an incident involving Timmay and I assume some type of extraction, I believe details would be in order, if it were the case ;D
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Hmmm was referring to maybe an incident involving Timmay and I assume some type of extraction, I believe details would be in order, if it were the case ;D
tim got stuck! ALOT! and jon and i had to get him out . . . . . . .alot!
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I remember having one of those days where I became the official tow truck, NOT FUN!
It freaking sucks towing people out all day & not wheeling.
There should be a 1 free tow per day max rule or something, after that your on your own!
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I remember having one of those days where I became the official tow truck, NOT FUN!
It freaking sucks towing people out all day & not wheeling.
There should be a 1 free tow per day max rule or something, after that your on your own!
its not so much he kept gwetting stuck it was that he could do nothing to get himself out. i will tow out all day but when you are worthless at helping get yourself out i get frustrated
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jfc.
There will be a winch on this thing before it sees the trails!!! >:( I'm not going to go into why I don't have one yet, because it doesn't matter. I know I need one, I have left space for one, and I have a winch plate that I'm going to use.
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Poor Tim getting beat on in his own thread
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jfc.
There will be a winch on this thing before it sees the trails!!! >:( I'm not going to go into why I don't have one yet, because it doesn't matter. I know I need one, I have left space for one, and I have a winch plate that I'm going to use.
:) All in good fun tim!
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Tim told me last week that he would only take it out for a shake down run before getting a winch.
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I remember having one of those days where I became the official tow truck, NOT FUN!
Remember Swanzy and the stock XJ ;D
Jason.
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Tim told me last week that he would only take it out for a shake down run before getting a winch.
If I see it on the trail with no winch I will light it on fire.
just saying ;D
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if its to the point you aren't wheeling it BECAUSE you need a winch, i just wont have it.
For you Tim i would lend you one of the winches I am not using if it came to that.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0015.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0016.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/100_00187.jpg)
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Looks good twisty. Someone is messing with you and hung your spare up on the wall!!! :woot:
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Installing the air shocks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4154.jpg)
And sitting at ride height. No jackstands.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4155.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4156.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4157.jpg)
20.25" belly height (was 25.25" when I last drove it in November). 115" wheelbase.
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Mmmm rear steer ;D
I see that in your future.
Jason.
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You should like it alot better at 20" belly
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im jealous yours is off jack stands before mine :finger:
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nice work tim!!
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im jealous yours is off jack stands before mine :finger:
:starwars:
Jason, you know it. ;D
Thanks guys! It was tons of fun to get the shocks filled, and the Jeep on jackstands! It is much more stable and easier to work on now.
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im jealous yours is off jack stands before mine :finger:
:starwars:
I see your jackstands are free now, i bet they are gonna be lonely ;D
Jason, you know it. ;D
Thanks guys! It was tons of fun to get the shocks filled, and the Jeep on jackstands! It is much more stable and easier to work on now.
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wow looking good tim! way to keep up your motivation!
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Thanks Mitch! It's been a little difficult at times, but I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've been getting some goodies in the mail which will get me a lot closer to having it running again!!
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Great work Tim! You are almost there. I can't wait to shoot up to the shop to check it out in person.
K
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that is incredible Tim. Man I mis those dented rear quarters though :-\
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Pics update!
Trans cooler with -8 fittings and hose. (thanks for the recommendation Jon)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4158.jpg)
Started a fuel cell cradle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4160.jpg)
Tied the front boat sides into the "frame." It might hit the tire at full lock....not sure yet. ::)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4159.jpg)
And finished the back X. I was dreading doing this, so I knocked it out last time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4161.jpg)
I also started on the passenger seat mount. In the next couple of weeks I will have some goodies coming in. Yes, that means a winch!!
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wow looking great Timmy....get it done!!!
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Working on it. ;)
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Funny story.
I have an RCI 15gal fuel cell. I am not going to use the stock pump (obviously). Instead I am going to go with the Walbro 255 fuel pump and 4 Walbro fuel pickups. While researching filters, I was shocked to see that most of the 10 micron filters on Summit were in the $80 range. I wasn't happy about that, so I began to search for spin on type filters. I already have a filter adapter, and wanted to re-use it. After a some looking I found a Wix 10 micron filter with a 3/4x16tpi thread! I was so proud of myself. Then I received it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4162.jpg)
HOLY CRAP is it big!! I'm still planning to use it though. It may look goofy, but I will have some clean fuel going to my engine!! ;D ::)
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looking good Tim, almost time to wheel it!
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whoa...u have a lot of cutting boards.
jk, good for you for finding an alternative. Rear cage "X" looks awesome.
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Thanks Andrew. I like the look of the rear X too. ;D
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Dam thats a big arse filter for a 4.0
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Cage question...
How much benefit would I get by adding in these red bars to my current design? If it's astronomical I will add some in. If it's not critical I might wait. I can see it helping support the roof from caving in...but am not an expert in cages to be 100% sure.
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I would do it, if you have the tube there is benefit to it.
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(http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275/jychen1/50004British-Flag-Posters.jpg)
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Haha
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maybe at least add the top one to distribute the impact from your roof
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Chuck, thanks. It'll stay for now. ;D
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that tube will help the rigidity in a hard flop back or forward
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So in the past day I have purchased a lot of stuff!!
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
fuel fittings, and fuel line (just need to figure out Walbro pickup connections)
power steering feed line
Warn M8000 (!!!)
Yukon 4340 stubs
Crow Enterprizes 3" harnesses with sewn in shoulder pads
$75 worth of nuts and bolts from Bolt Depot
35 spline drive flanges
Dana Spicer inner shafts
Dana Spicer D60 u-joints
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:cheers:
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thank god.
you know what I am referring to.
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My 35 spline stub shafts, right? ;D
the winch, I know
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so after all the waiting you bought a crappy winch! geeez
;D
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It's all I can afford now. ;D
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i have no idea what that thing costs?
it will be fine
glad you got a winch and are closing in on this thing
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Also picked up a case of this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/turdpolish.jpg)
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Also picked up a case of this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/turdpolish.jpg)
oh nice i have used that stuff myself. never seems to work as well as advertised
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M8000 is good. I would have been ok with you going out and buying a goddamn comealong. ;D
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hahah!! I'll stick with the M8000. ;D
I just need to pick up some steel so I can fabricate the bumper/cradle thing it will sit in. 8)
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Tim how much were the Dana 60 35 spline and where did you get them, link.
Jason.
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pm sent.
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Ya never mind I thought you found some Dana 60 35 spline drive flange's ::)
Those are some good price's on the shafts.
Jason.
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Oh, sorry.
I got the flanges from RPM offroad for $185 shipped.
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My bolts came today! Looks like I accidentally bought grade 5 bolts for my seats/harnesses. I'll use them for now, but switch out to grade 8 before I wheel. ::)
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Grade 8 ? What do plan on driving into a tornado ? ........ ;D
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As previously mentioned, the minimum grade for all restraint mounts is SAE Grade 8.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Harness_install/
Do I think grade 5 will work? Yes, I do. But I don't want to compromise safety because of a $0.60 part!
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Better safe than sorry ...
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Right.
Example. It's safe to say that some people are glad that I now have one of these. I'm also sorry I didn't get one sooner. :finger:
I also have an $80 mail in rebate to send in too. It's already in the envelope, ready to go!
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8)
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Yess!
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now you need a nice switch panel ;)
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Drive flanges are here, as is most of my fuel system.
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Got my stubs, and Crow safety harnesses in yesterday. These harnesses are some spiffy parts. 8)
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:rockon:
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Working with Warn to get a replacement motor cover for the winch. The box had a dent in the side, and when I looked at the winch, the motor end cap was dented and cracked. I don't want water to get in there so I requested a replacement. They've already sent me a new cover....but it won't work. Lets see how long this takes.
Also, I want to give a plug for Jeff @ Crown. He hooked me up with some Spicer D60 parts (inner shafts and u-joints) for super low prices! His prices shipped were lower than other places before shipping!!
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Working with Warn to get a replacement motor cover for the winch. The box had a dent in the side, and when I looked at the winch, the motor end cap was dented and cracked. I don't want water to get in there so I requested a replacement. They've already sent me a new cover....but it won't work. Lets see how long this takes.
Also, I want to give a plug for Jeff @ Crown. He hooked me up with some Spicer D60 parts (inner shafts and u-joints) for super low prices! His prices shipped were lower than other places before shipping!!
Did you get stock replacement inner shafts?
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yes
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Working with Warn to get a replacement motor cover for the winch. The box had a dent in the side, and when I looked at the winch, the motor end cap was dented and cracked. I don't want water to get in there so I requested a replacement. They've already sent me a new cover....but it won't work. Lets see how long this takes.
Also, I want to give a plug for Jeff @ Crown. He hooked me up with some Spicer D60 parts (inner shafts and u-joints) for super low prices! His prices shipped were lower than other places before shipping!!
I hope yours gets fixed quicker than my superwinch that arrived with a damaged solinoid box :) It is finally fixed now, months later.
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Also, I want to give a plug for Jeff @ Crown. He hooked me up with some Spicer D60 parts (inner shafts and u-joints) for super low prices! His prices shipped were lower than other places before shipping!!
Yup Jason & I cleaned him out once before ;D
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Well today I got my axle shafts assembled and painted. I finished repairing the 2 stripped bolt holes for my power steering pump bracket. I also drilled out the hi-steer arms. 7.5" from the center of the KP with 8" throw should put me close to where I was before.
I also ordered a Howe power steering cooler.
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Well today I got my axle shafts assembled and painted. I finished repairing the 2 stripped bolt holes for my power steering pump bracket. I also drilled out the hi-steer arms. 7.5" from the center of the KP with 8" throw should put me close to where I was before.
I also ordered a Howe power steering cooler.
Thats all you got done on Friday? Sorry for taking building time away from ya :)
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Jerry came by too. I got enough done. I felt it was a good day. I was too tired to do anything else. :-\
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Just got home with a 260lb piece of .250 plate steel for $35. This will get me through the rest of this build, and then some. ;D
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That's under $2 per pound price difference between what you paid and scrap price (figuring $220 a ton).
Nice!
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It was at a scrap yard. I brought 300lbs of stuff, at $.05 / lb. The yard charged me $.20 / lb for this stuff. 50-15=35. :)
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That yard is only paying out $100 a ton? Last I checked they were paying out .11 a pound in my area.
Regardless good deal.
Edit: if the stuff you brought in was loose I can understand the .05
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I got a little done last night.
Mounted my rear limiting strap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/0520011842.jpg)
Mounted my rebuilt PS pump (now with -12 feed) and new 9" reservoir with integral filter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/0520011836a.jpg)
And I mounted the passenger seat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/0520012021.jpg)
Sorry for the crappy cell pics.
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crappy pics or not.....its progress :salute:
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Jerry came by too. I got enough done. I felt it was a good day. I was too tired to do anything else. :-\
Thanks again for helping with that Tim.. 8)
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How much is left on the to do list?
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-Assemble and plumb fuel system
-Plumb transmission cooler lines, mount cooler and fan
-Plumb steering lines, build reservoir mount
-Get mini tie-rods made and center the ram on the axle - drill and tap mounting holes
-Make doubler cable shifters
-Get RADesigns AW4 trans shifter
-Mount harnessess
-Finish assembling doubler
-Make drive shafts
-Finish front winch mount
-Mount battery and run cables
-Re-wire engine
-Finish cage (roof bars, door bars, verticle supports behind seats)
-Exhaust
-Skid plates
-Boat sides
-Finish assembling front axle
There's probably more, but that's basically all of it.
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holy CHIT Batman
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I forgot did you fab your front truss or running a pre-fab? Id like to see the ram mount either way. Im stuck trying to figure out if im gonna try to fab one or pony up and buy a kit
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I made it. Here's the best pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4147.jpg)
Does Artec make one for the 78/79 axle? I realy like theirs.
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Alot of good idea's here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=980212
Even the pre built one's, some times they need alot of tweaking to make fit for your certon applacation, so IMO a purpose built ( for your rig ) is a better start.
Jason.
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thanks Tim.
Jason, I agree...limited tools and access to tools makes me think about pre-made. Ive got something designed out of cardboard....but the ram mount is the real tricky part
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make it out of wood!
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any updates :woot:
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Yes! I just got home from a productive night. I finished my reservoir mount, and got my ram bolted on. Still going to make a keyway to add strength, but all 4 bolts are in, and the diff cover is welded shut.
Here's a pic of the new tie-rods and ram placement.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0029.jpg)
It seems that I mis-measured for my tie-rods...but only by .250-.500 each. Not a whole lot, but I need some input on my current situation. I have 3 threads out of the jam nut. In the AL tie rods I have 1 5/16 of thread engagement (AL is 7075). Is this strong enough? Todd, Jon, Jason.....anyone with experience? I was hoping to have the heims bottomed out, but they're out a little. They're 7/8 shank, by the way.
Here's a bad pic of the heims.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0034.jpg)
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Did some research, and after comparing 7075 -T6 to 1018 and 1020 DOM, it seems that the 7075 has similar yield strengths. Not as concerned as before. I'm going to run them unless someone has some major concerns. Jam nuts will be kept tight and Loctited. 8)
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its fine run it
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1 5/16" is plenty of engagament.
Is there a clearance issue if you flipped the Hydro line's around towards the axle. I remember reading someware about its close to the cover.
Jason.
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it will be plenty fine.
to be honest i would prefer a little more thread showing so you have some ability to adjust the alignment/toe.
J
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1 5/16" is plenty of engagament.
Is there a clearance issue if you flipped the Hydro line's around towards the axle. I remember reading someware about its close to the cover.
Jason.
Yeah, I don't like where they are either!! If I flipped the ram around, the fitting would hit the diff cover, and be in the way of the panhard. ::)
jeepgod, jon, jason.....thanks for the input on the tie rods!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Maybe weld a little gaurd or two that cover the hydro line area.
I know its not but it allmost looks like the line's would be very close to your approach angel. Again I know its not, but somthing there would not hurt.
Jason.
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Just put the cab back on and give up, it'll never work ;D
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Got a decent amount done tonight.
First.....lets start with Ian's opinion on tire size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0044.jpg)
Now on to my progress.
Got the power steering reservoir mounted up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0035.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0036.jpg)
And the cooler. I made the little rubber pieces out of some old hockey pucks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0040.jpg)
A quick pic of my diff cover ram mount.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0037.jpg)
Then I mounted my trans cooler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0039.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0038.jpg)
And I mounted my fuel cell and my tool box.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0041.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0042.jpg)
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Damn straight twisty, I do heart the big meats
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Looking good Tim
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Question, why didn't you just offset the ram to one side a couple inches? it's not imperitive that the ram be 100% centered, off set 2 incher either way would have no effect on performance. the only down side would be that your tie rods would be differet, but I don't think thats a critical thing.
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You are right, John. If I had a later model D60, I would have pushed the ram back to get it closer to the axle, but since I have a 1979, and the pumpkin isn't that far from center, the ram would have been very off set to get it farther back.
That, and I like symmetry. ;D
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:cheers:
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Resourceful on the pucks, good idea
Some really clean work being done on this rig!
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Thanks Chuck!!
I hit Sears yesterday to take advantage of the Fathers Day tool sales. I got a set (SAE and Metric) of reversible gear wrenches for $80 (normally $160). 42 screw driver set for $40 (normally $60). I also purchased socket organizers, adjustable wrenches, pry bars, and a vise. My next purchase will be a 413 piece mechanics tool set.
I will be retiring my current tool set for trail duty.
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Congrats on the tools.
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Ordered the following.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944048000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942283000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935299000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944803000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7
10% off and free shipping. Had to pay tax though. ::)
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I like that the � set goes up to 1 � and 22mm
Those extensions and adapters will come in handy at the most opportune times
IMO, the contour ratchet is far more comfortable to work with over the standard ratchets.
Well done!
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so your at the tool ordering stage....does that mean this thing is done???? ;D
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good thing you already bought a winch ;D
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No real pics, but I got the orbital mounted, some steering hoses made, and the transmission hoses made. I built a keyway for my steering ram, so the bolts aren't the only things holding it in place. Lastly I started a skidplate for the front of my steering hoop. It didn't go as planned and I ran out of welding gas before I could really get going on it.
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I'll get more gas tomorrow.
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It's home.
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did you paint it!??
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It's home.
I dont believe it.....pics or it never happened ;D
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I dont believe it.....pics or it never happened ;D
x2!!
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4232.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4231.jpg)
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nice!
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Cool!!!
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sweet little setup timmy!! came out great!!
we should do a wood grain wrap on the tubing!! ha ha!! ;D
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Nice so when is the shakedown run?
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I don't know. I was hoping for fall crawl, but that's looking doubtful now. I'm not in any rush. Enjoying the build and trying to do everything right this time around.
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Tim, looking good bet it feels great to have ur rig back home :)
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:salute: :salute: :salute: :salute:
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I don't know. I was hoping for fall crawl, but that's looking doubtful now.
What the hell, what have you got left to do?
Looks ready to me!
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Fiddled with it a little tonight. Finish welded most of the roof and cut out the front crossmember in preparation for mounting the winch.
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More
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Uno mas.
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wow, it came out real nice, good luck on the trails. ;D
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Tim, I have one concern, the red rag in the front drivers hub, will it hold up to the 42's? I think you should have considered a black rag since everyone knows that they are stronger and morer-harder-corer than the red ones. :finger:
Looks Awesome Tim, great work! I really like the simple clean lines ;D
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red will work fine. I read it on jeepforum.
::)
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^what is that stuff?^
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looks like someone got a walbro shipment from LII
edit, appears to be a walbro fuel pick up Bob
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Yes, walbros. But not from lii. Look at the sideways pic again. ;D
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Yes, walbros. But not from lii. Look at the sideways pic again. ;D
Good to know, much rather buy stuff from Adam then LII
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You and other people have had not great things to say about Lii. Lii's website was down when I wanted to order, so I went through WOD for everything. Really nice guys on the phone. Even though my order was relatively small, they took the time to answer questions and were grateful for my order. I highly recommend them.
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tim (owner of LII) is a fabricator not a salesman or retail guy. i wouldn't suggest ordering stuff from him
now get this POS done twisty
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Sorry, I just recalled you saying you were gonna order from him.
Pm me how much to your door, I need some for my cell.
Edit, just enlarged the photo, now I see the sticker
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NO progress on the MJ the past few days. Too damn hot!! Today I finally got around to building myself a badass workbench. I used four oak 2x8s that I milled at work, and a pressure treated 6x6 to tie them together. I then ran oak 2x4s (also milled by me) parallel to the 6x6s to make the working surface a little more level. The 2x8s are tied into the 6x6s with big 1/2x6" screws. The table probably weighs 200lbs and I still need to add the legs. I have a 4.5" "professional" Craftsman vise that I'm going to add to the top. Can't wait to get this table finished. I lack a good sturdy working surface.
Overall the table is 33" wide and 8' long.
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Worked some more on my center console.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0016.jpg)
Gusseted my rear shock mounts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0017.jpg)
Made my fuel lines.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0018.jpg)
And tested out a new look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0019.jpg)
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I also finished the passenger side boat sides.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0020.jpg)
And I took the surplus center sticker off to add a more personal one. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0015.jpg)
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what? no "ulous"? looks great tim!! nice work!
i am liking the fender idea...could look cool
8)
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I'm saving those for a special use. ;D
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i like the skins. do rear skins too. purley for a cosmetic reasons.
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Angled and capped my frame rails. I was dreading this job and put it off forever. I think it came out well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0022.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0023.jpg)
I also took pics of my finished fuel system (except for the in tank pickups). I have a fuel cutoff valve on the supply and return. While it is a little for safety, I wanted them so I could work on the fuel system without having to drain the tanke.
Here's the pump supply line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0024.jpg)
The pump location and filter. The filter is rated to 10 microns.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0025.jpg)
And here is the tank return line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Mobile%20Uploads/100MEDIAIMAG0026.jpg)
Any criticism of my fuel system design? I wanted it to allow the pump to be close and to not have to work hard to suck fuel. Even when climbing the fuel will be close to the pump and easily moved.
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tim, nice work all around. The frame rails came out great.
I was involved with hydraulic mechanics and machine building for a while in my younger years, and all the return lines were at the top of the tank. I worry about your return line working properly as they are usually very low pressure and may not be able to "return" under the weight of a full gas tank. I know nothing about fuel systems however and this concern really has no validation because of that. However, fluid mechanics made me post this.
Did you cut and weld that coupling in place or was it there for that intended purpose?
Also, if you think this post holds weight, we used SAE/NTP couplings. SAE on the outside for a snug leakfree o-ring fit. and NTP went inside the tank where we screwed a 90 degree fitting facing down the to the bottom and a threaded pipe with a 45 degree angle cut on it a few inches from the bottom so that the oil dripping in wouldnt create air bubbles and caveate the pumps.... but that's oil and its a bit thicker than gas.
Just food for thought and a little constructive rantacism for you :)
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Interesting point of view. I don't really know why I put that fitting on the bottom. It is just a bulkhead fitting which I added to get -an thread on the inside. The stock fittings are not threaded on the inside. I will do some research about the location of the return fitting. Part of me wanted to put it there so the fuel came in on the bottom and wasn't dripping in from the top and splashing and creating bubbles.
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it.
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I can also see the.fuel back flowing through the return since it is easily made lower than the supply. Such as parking or driving down a hill. Maybe I should move the fitting to the top.....
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tim, i wouldnt use sae or o-rings for fuel lines - again, limited knowledge speaking here - but I am pretty sure gasoline will eat the rubber o-rings. But there has to be something that you can use, I am sure you will find it :)
also, the viscosity of fuel makes me thing that a "down line" inside the tank would not be nessassary as the bubbles created (if any) would be minimal and quickly surfaced, unlike certain oils.
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also, if you want to test your welds for leaks - plug the hole on the outside of the tank (to avoid spray through) and soak the weld area best you can from inside the tank with WD40. It finds "pin holes" in welds naked to the human eye awesomely. Just spray and wait 5 min, the check the welds around the fitting on the outside for wet spots. Grind those areas all the all the way down to the tank + and about a 1/4" to the right and left of suspected hole. Then hit with a new round of weld and spray again. Use mineral spirits on a rag to clean up the WD40. Its magical!
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I'm using an fittings all around. No o-rings. I sod a quick search and stumbled on this post.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=423425&highlight=fuel+system+return.
I might try it. There might be no issue. I could also add a tube on the inside that connects to the return fitting, and loops ip, then back down.
I did a quo k search on the pressure at depths. The pressure exerted by fresh water is .432 psi/foot. Fuel is lighternthan water. My tank is 18" tall. If it were full, it would put about .648 psi on the return line.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm. Is my math wrong?
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I have no welds on my tank. Bulkhead fittings with teflon washers.
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i read the pirate, and I may just be wasting your time. Sorry man - the rest is up to you.
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No time wasted. I learned something, and reevaluated my hoses. I'm not 100% sure its perfect. Thanks again for the input. :)
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I've been stacking with my updates. No pics...I will get those tomorrow. Ian came over yesterday and helped me get the transfer cases installed. They are a pita to fit around the tube, but we got them in. We also strengthened my rear link crossmember with .25". I'm happy with it and feel that it is up to the task of wheeling now. I've also painted most of the rear of the cage. I'm also piercing together my fuel tank pickup system. I spent a lot of money on brass fittings and large brake lines to make a big H to put the pickups on.
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i hope you skin this thing to look like an MJ
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I left my tree saver there
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Double shear steering arms.
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on the bottom?
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Yes, if I go to the top of the arm, I run into every clearance problem you can imagine.
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Tic tock i hear fall crawl coming!! You going to be there before 10am on sunday? Lol
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It will not be at fall crawl.
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That sucks!! Any more progress? Still got a week!!
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Yes, lots of good progress. But still not enough to be ready. I must work slow, because it's taking me forever to get stuff done.
Here's a shot of the rear end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4241.jpg)
I got the Walbros in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4238.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4239.jpg)
All brake hoses in. Still need the hard lines to the master.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4245.jpg)
Flexing the front to test drive shaft. I was able to fit a 1 piece shaft without modifying it. I notched the crossmember a tad, and can use all 14 inches of shock travel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4246.jpg)
Welded in a bung for my trans temp sensor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4240.jpg)
Front back together. Notice the winch bumper (Jon H.). Waiting on a steel hawse fairlead so I can cut the hole and finish mounting the winch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4247.jpg)
Front axle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4248.jpg)
And my super awesome drive flanges are finally installed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4249.jpg)
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Doesn't look like you have much left
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Nothing wrong with taking your time to get it just that way you want. Speeding up the process can take the fun out of it, at least it does for me.
Nice work on the plumbing.
What paint are you using?
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looking good dude. wish i had the time to get my shyt going.
One thing that concerns me though, The fuel tank plumbing.... :o
Correct me if i missed any details about the system you are running because i skimmed through everything I havent been on here in a while.
Although it is done cleanly I'm not sure what all the fittings you have in there are maybe there is some trick check valves etc but My experience with more than one pickup inside the tank has always been disastrous. I feel that your going to lose suction(and pressure) the second one of them lose fuel from around them. It will suck the remaining fuel from the pickup to the common joint then lose all suction at the remaining pickup points. especially with no baffling or troughs around the pickups. It looks like you have four but maybe its just two?
SO in theory your actually making your usable fuel cap smaller with a pickup in 4 corners vs one in the center. look at where things end up when its at 45 degrees and you'll get what i mean.
another tip and i hate pointing out things like this on the internet because i sound like a dick. but i kind of am so whatever.
That 90 in the center joint where it looks like it goes from the pump to the two side pickups. That is an NPT thread and doesn't REQUIRE tef tape although it help in some cases it should seal to itself and tape is not needed. Inside a fuel tank you should always refrain from using tape, sealant glues and epoxy cause it eventually ends up in your pickup strainer/pump/filter/injectors etc.
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I like it, build me one :)
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Tony, the fuel pickups close when fuel sloshes away. Thus no loss of suction. They are designed for snowmobile racing. Great reviews on Pirate. Look up Walbro fuel pickups if you have some spare time. Good call on the teflon tape. I shouldn't have used it, but I wasn't thinking clearly about that when I built the lines. I'm not going to remove it. Too much of a pita to get the assembly out.
Thanks Bobby. :)
Chuck- rustoleum clean metal primer all around. Back half was rustoleum gloss black. Front half was X-O rust from the hardware store. It SUCKS!!! Still not dry after a week of sitting.
Miguel- still plenty to keep me busy. Lol.
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ok thats the part where i didnt read up. hopefully they work out.
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Arctic cat efi sled?
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More progress with photographic evidence. :finger:
I finished my wiring harness, and have most of it plugged in. This is the fuel injection portion.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4254.jpg)
Still need to organize and mount this mess.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4255.jpg)
And my new hawse fairlead came in today. It has a smaller profile which fits on my bumper much better.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4250.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4251.jpg)
Lined up the holes, traced the opening and cut it up!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4252.jpg)
Winch mounted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4256.jpg)
Approach angle is still 90*....even with the hawse. I have this thing REALLY close to the motor. Perhaps too close. Time will tell.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4257.jpg)
Then I mounted the control box with the included bracket. After all was said and done, I stood back, and realized that there *may* be contact with the box and tire at full stuff/full turn. I will flex it out later to get the answer. I don't want the tire to remove the control box, and send the wires into the fan.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4258.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4259.jpg)
Why did I mount it there? Because it's mostly out of the way, and the wires wouldn't reach any further. There is NO more room in the bumper to mount it. Thus is why I bought a winch with a remote mountable solenoid.
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:woot: looking sick Timmy.
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Thanks bigd!
My factory air intake hose tore. I don't want to have to find another (last made in 1990). I fabbed one up with the metal air hose flnge, some 3" exhaust tubing and a new filter. Cost me $23.18 total. Now I need a hood because rain will go straight down into the throttle body.
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Let's go wheeling!
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Wanna push me?
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:cheers:
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Chuck- rustoleum clean metal primer all around. Back half was rustoleum gloss black. Front half was X-O rust from the hardware store. It SUCKS!!! Still not dry after a week of sitting.
Read the directions on the XO-Rust. Do not use primer it needs to go on bare metal, as it uses the metal to catalyze the paint.
Rustoleum's primer especially does not mix well with the XO rust. Don't feel bad, you are definitely not the first to make this mistake. ;D.
Future reference it is usually a good think to prime and paint with the same brand to make sure they are compatible. Also make sure that you read the directions for cure time. A lot of stuff is paint within 4 hours or after 24, 48, 72 due tot eh outgassing of solvents.
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I tried the XO rust on some sliders a couple years ago. Clean bare metal, sprayed it on, looked good. Half way through winter it was all gone replaced with rust. And I was only driving the rig for a few days at a time during/after snow storms.
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I made a rear driveshaft today.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4261.jpg)
It's an oddball one. 1410 joint at the axle end, 2" poop pipe, then a driveshaft/slip joint from an old YJ shaft (thanks Ian/Tony), then a 1310 yoke from a stock YJ shaft, and a 1310/1330 conversion joint. I do not have any faith that the 1310/1330 will hold, but it's what I had.
Here's the suspension drooped all the way out, checking for binding at the transfer case. There was none!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4262.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4264.jpg)
Transfer case end. Like my temporary zip-tie u-bolt? :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4265.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4263.jpg)
One at ride height.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4268.jpg)
And I finished my seat mount bars. These little gussets make them much stronger.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4266.jpg)
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looking good Tim.. 8)
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Temporary or not please cut off the zip tie end........ :D
Looks good Tim!
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Happy. :D
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Why yes, yes I am.
You just saved Ian or yourself from losing an eye by cutting off that zip tie end.
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;D
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Got my battery box mounted. It's between the seats. I'm running a DieHard Platinum AGM battery, so it's sealed and should be safe. I will take a pic tomorrow when I'm tinkering on it.
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Here's the battery all mounted and ready for wiring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4269.jpg)
And I FINALLY finished the middle support tube. I've been looking at it for months, and have been too lazy to trim it, line it up, weld it, and paint it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4270.jpg)
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I bought a full size spare for a yesterday. $210 shipped for a blemished Irok directly from Interco.
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Looks good Tim.
What type battery did you buy?
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It's a DieHard Platinum, basically a re-badged Odyssey. A sealed AGM type battery.
Thanks Chuck.
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looking good tim!
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I'm still hoping to make the November ride.
I ordered some 2/0 welding cable to make battery cables.
I also purchased some fire sleeve for the trans lines and the battery cable. Once I can get power to the engine, then I can start messing with it to see if it want's to start. I tore apart the wiring, and re-did it with another harness.....so if I put everything back together, it should work.
But I have very little, if any confidence that I did it correctly.
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If you need battery cable in a pinch, interstate battery in woburn on nashua st sells it per foot and is very well priced. Was way cheaper than west marina and napa.
Also, picked up a brand new redtop optima for $60
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Still working on this thing. I want to have it driving in under 3 weeks! ::)
First, I finally got around to finishing my hydro hoses.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4271.jpg)
And I also moved my panhard mount forwards on the axle. This is a much better spot than before, doesn't bind, and allows me to run a straight bar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4273.jpg)
Today I recieved 10' of firesleeve that I bought from Summit Racing. This stuff is rated for 500*F constant and 2000*F surge. My trans lines are close to the exhaust, and I don't want them to melt on me.
First, some tech on fire sleeve. When installing the firesleeve, you want to be sure that it continues up to the fitting, protecting the inner hose from any heat contact. It is simply slipped over the hose, but leaving the ends open allows the inner fiberglass lining to wick oil and grease into the sleeve. This impares its fire resistance can also eat away at the hose it is protecting. After reading some airplane forums, I found the correct way to install this stuff. You are supposed to seal the ends off with a silicone dip that they make for fire sleeve. However it is expensive, and comes in quarts. Many people recommended using red RTV instead. I chose to go this route. Once I had squirted a little RTV inbetween the sleeve and the hose I smeared some around the outside, and used stainless hose clamps to seal them off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4274.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4275.jpg)
I also made my center console, and mounted my battery disconnect switch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4276.jpg)
And here you can see my $210 cosmetic blemish Irok from Interco. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMG_4278.jpg)
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And Chuck, before you say anything, I will be trimming the hose clamp. ;D
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;D
Good progress Tim!
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what is the "blemish" on the tire?
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Can't find one. Neither could Lou or jeeptech. Steveo and my brother can't find it either...
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Can't find one. Neither could Lou or jeeptech. Steveo and my brother can't find it either...
their QA standards must be pretty tight then.
watch it not hold air ;D
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Holds air fine. ;D
I bled the steering and filled the trans today. I might try to start it tomorrow if I have time to make and install my battery cables.
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Made my battery cables today. Wired the jeep, poured some gas in the throttle body, and it fired right up. Only ran for a second or two...because of the lack of fuel I'm sure. Tomorrow I will wire the fuel pump, and put gas in the tank. ;D
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Good to hear!
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Nice!!!
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Yah, super excited to hear it run again!
I also took some pics today.
Here's the 300A "mega fuse" and cable lugs that I used beside a quarter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4279.jpg)
Fuse mounted on fire wall with 2/0 cables.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4280.jpg)
Where I mounted the relays, and coil.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4281.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4284.jpg)
And a shot of the battery with cables.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4283.jpg)
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Can't find one. Neither could Lou or jeeptech. Steveo and my brother can't find it either...
their QA standards must be pretty tight then.
Now if they could make a tire that is round and not need to add 3lbs of weight per side to balance.....
watch it not hold air ;D
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BBs
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Well I put gas in the tank, wired the fuel pump, and realized that I had the fuel lines reversed. Fixed that and it fired right up! I did find out that my crank slightly hits the oil pan due to some "clearancing" that I did. Now I need to swap that. ::)
BUT it runs, and barring any catastrophes, it will be at the next trail ride.
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it will be at the next trail ride
:shocked:
had to improvise, no such smiley
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:o
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LOL couldn't find it
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Ye have little faith my friend.
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Ian came over yesterday to get new tires put on his XJ, and to help me fab. We ended up swapping oil pans. Not as bad as I thought it would be. The engine runs just like it did 11 months ago. Steve-O is coming over on Monday to give me a hand with brake lines. Then it will officially be a driver.
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Making good progess over the past few days.
I am at the tail end of all of my wiring. An important part of my wiring is the transmission. It is electronically controlled, and shifts using solenoids. There are 2 for gear selection and 1 for the torque converter lockup. I needed to find which wires connect to which solenoid. There are 7 wires going into the transmission. 3 of those are solenoids, 2 of which I need to control. When the solenoids are not powered, there should be a reading of 12-15 ohms. There is no ground wire, since the solenoids are grounded to the battery through the engine block. I am not sure which wires control which solenoids, so I will have to drive it and play with the wires. It won't be hard to get them correct.
Solenoid wire locations.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4285.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4286.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4287.jpg)
Then I got to wiring up my swith pannel. This will allow me to shift through all 4 gears of the transmission, and control both of my electric fans.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4288.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4289.jpg)
And together on the center console.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG_4290.jpg)
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I also wired my trans temp gauge, and went through 3 gallons of gear oil for the diffs, and the t-cases. Since the 203 is a chain driven transfer case with a helical gear reduction box (unlike the 231 and 241 which both have planetary gear reduction) it calls for 30w motor oil. I'm not using the chain part....just the gear'd range box. I figured that it would be fine with gear oil so I filled it with ~2.5 quarts of 80w-90. The 205 got 2 quarts. The 14b got 3.5 quarts, and the D60 got about 3 quarts.
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I'm digging the ghetto switch housing.. 8)
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Nice work Tim!
Buggy is coming out great.
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I'm not sure what tranny you have but thought I'd post this anyway. I hope this helps.
http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html
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I'm digging the ghetto switch housing.. 8)
Ghetto?! I spent an afternoon building that thing!!
Nice work Tim!
Buggy is coming out great.
Thanks Dan! Good to har from you! How are things?
I'm not sure what tranny you have but thought I'd post this anyway. I hope this helps.
http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html
I have that exact transmission. I am doing what the writeup detailed, but for both shifting solenoids. :)
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Looking good! Now is the fun part of the build! :woot:
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/5.jpg)
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nice tim!! good job buddy!
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Timmay!! Looks awesome dude, can't wait to see it this weekend.
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A lot of time and dedication went into that rig��excellent job! :cheers:
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Well done....can't wait to see it
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your summit racing sticker is crooked :finger:
Very Happy for you Tim, hope it works as you want it to.
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Thanks guys. It runs really well right now. Hoping that we will be able to get to NH this weekend so I can test it out in the manner it was designed. ;D
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Needs some skins....
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MJ? where at :D
That thing came out tits Tim ;) WOW. Really
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Today
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8) good to see it on the trail again!
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Thanks Bob!
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Now go beat it like it owes you money!!!!
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I did yesterday. Drove it harder than I ever have. ;D
My serpentine belt was loose, and would squeel whenever I put a large electrical load on the alternator (winch). Upon tightening the belt, I noticed that my PS pulley (also the tensioner) was not perfectly in line with the other pulleys. The belt does not seems to be rubbing on anything...and I'm sure it's fine (it works fine)...but it still pisses me off. ::) ::)
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I did yesterday. Drove it harder than I ever have. ;D
My serpentine belt was loose, and would squeel whenever I put a large electrical load on the alternator (winch). Upon tightening the belt, I noticed that my PS pulley (also the tensioner) was not perfectly in line with the other pulleys. The belt does not seems to be rubbing on anything...and I'm sure it's fine (it works fine)...but it still pisses me off. ::) ::)
you didn't have this problem before did you? had you changed anything that would cause this?
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I think I know the problem. When I "clocked" my steering pump, I had to drill new holes in the bracket. When I tighten the belt, the mounting bolts bind, and pivot the pump. I'm going to look into making the idlers pulley in the AC spot a makeshift tensioner.
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Here's what the problem looked like.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0073.jpg)
And here's after I fiddled with it for a while this morning.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0075.jpg)
Much better I think
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it took me a while to see the difference, but now i see it and it looks better.
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Another thing I learned was that with my tools, 10 gallons of gas and 450-500lbs of people, my rear shocks bottomed out frequently, and only had a few inches of uptravel. Before this weekend I was already 50ml over the stock fluid level. Tonight I added around 20ml more. This means that the shocks are completely full of fluid when compressed all the way. I made sure that they would not hydro-lock, and topped them off with 100psi of nitrogen. I'm hoping that this will help or even fix the bottoming out issue.
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It sounds like its gonna be trial and error. Your rig was great Saturday, nice job Tim !
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Yes, I think it will be.
Thanks jerry. It was great wheeling with you. Sorry about your tub. :(.
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I'm suck of no exhaust. I ordered this muffler and a bunch of tubing and other stuff.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-325108
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Oh boy, I remember that muffler. Wait what? what? huh? I can't hear you!
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its so small! :woot:
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Can that really even be called a muffler??? ;D
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It's better than what I have now, and given my space concerns I hope it will work.
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Snowmobiles have already been faced with trail loses caused by loud exhaust, I'm sure we will be faced with it too with trail locations becoming closer and closer to residential areas. Noise is one of the few things causing all the problems with swanzey. I thing we as a whole should be more proactive on this.
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So, are you saying that I bought a piece of [censored], and that I need to do better?
Or are you saying that it's a good thing that I'm trying to make the MJ quieter?
??? ??? ???
I listened to quite a few youtube clips of the Flowmaster 10 series, and the Cherry Bomb extreme. They both sound raspy, but not obnoxious on the 4.0. Granted, it is youtube, and video cameras are hardly capable of capturing true sound. I am after a quiet muffler, that isn't a "straight through" race muffler. I can't fit a long muffler because I don't have a lot of areas where straight lengths of exhaust tubing will reside. I also don't have room for a stock muffler, or a Thrush Turbo muffler (which I had before, and which Ian has) is still too big. I will try this little FM muffler, and if it's too loud, I might add another small straight through race muffler upstream.
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Twisty you ever hear my jeep after I put on the clayton? I had that same muffler.
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No, I did not.
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I'm glad you are. Many of the new trails are closer to residential areas now and some of the old regulars are getting built up around. I just think its something we should all keep in mind. Seeing a muffler being added to your build is a good example.
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Flowmaster makes a hushpower as well, which is pretty throaty, smaller case size as well. The 10 series is not quiet by any means, slightly quieter than wide open. It was completely obnoxious in my jeep honestly.
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JJ also ran that muffler on his TJ at one time.
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I thought he had a glasspack?
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Would like to hear this vs mine, I would like to quiet my jeep a little, but size needs to be compact. Currently rynning a dyno max aprial circle track muffler, I think it is just as loud as when the header was split in two.
Also Tim, I am no stranger to exhaust work, of you need halp, let me know.
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Thanks, john. I'm going to tackle it this weekend. The parts came in today. ;D
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I thought he had a glasspack?
After his glasspack. It sounds mean, but its all up to your ears! And if size is limited your options are too, give it a shot anyways.
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Um....it's still loud. :D
My test method was EXTREMELY hack, but I got a taste of what it sounds like.
I think that once I get the exhaust buttoned up, it will be quieter than before. Especially if I have the pipe go all the way out the back. It is definitely quieter into the higher RPM ranges. Not much quieter at idle.
Not sure how I'm going to squeeze the 2.5" exhaust in there though ::)
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i am running the stock head pipe and a dynamax "welded" muffler, when i 1st put it on i had just the end of the muffler as the exit. i thought it sounded great, i wanted to redirect the exhaust down to the ground i added a short piece of pipe (maybe 3" total length) that had a very slight bend in it it completly change the sound of the exhaust
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On my 7 I used to have a mid vehicle exit under the seats off the mufflers. Running pipes all the way out the b ack made a huge difference. It sounds better and is much quieter (still loud).
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Here we go!!
Down pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0045.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0046.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0047.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0048.jpg)
And the rest of the exhaust back to the muffler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0049.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0050.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0052.jpg)
I still need to get a few more bent pieces to run over the links and out the back.
Sounds much better. Still a little loud, but it's DEFINITELY better!
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looks good, where did you get the mandrel bent pieces?
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Thanks, I got the pieces from Summit. 8)
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Exhaust finished.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0053.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0054.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0055.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0056.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0057.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/100_0058.jpg)
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Nice, now you can build one for something else ..
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is it crazy loud
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Well done sir, well done.
P.s.
I really like your off-road welding cart.
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Is that last exhaust clamp welded to the frame? Is there any rubber strap hangers?
Looks really, clean!
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Is that last exhaust clamp welded to the frame? Is there any rubber strap hangers?
Looks really, clean!
Looks to be strait to the frame, he has a flex pipe up by the engine to deal with movement I believe.
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I was wondering if that would be enough. I know the camry has a flex pipe and rubber hanger at the end with a 4 cyl. Regardless those flex pipes can be had for cheap money last I looked.
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Thanks for the comments guys.
The exhaust is throaty, but not as raspy and sucky as before.
Chuck, I have a flex pipe close to the down pipe. I assumed that it would take care of any movement. I didn't want to deal with rubber hangers so I solid mounted everything after the flex pipe.
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Few small updates.
I got a small 5lb CO2 tank for free, so I bought a regulator, made a mount, and mounted it to the cage. I was also given a cheap 1/2" impact gun, and splurged $96 on trail tools from HF. I should be a little more self sufficient on the trail now. I know it's not much, but it'll get a tire or two off, and re-filled if I should blow another bead. 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0169.jpg)
I welded a spare air fitting on to the tube so I could have both ends of the air hose attached. This keeps the hose out of the way, and keeps dirt out of the inside.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0171.jpg)
Spent a lot of money of fire extinguishers! I bought two 2.5lb dry chemical extinguishers, and one 2.5lb Halguard extinguisher from H3R. I also got the SFR quick release mounts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0170.jpg)
My first real damage came in the form of a dented driveshaft. This is a stock Ford F350 unit, and served me well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0172.jpg)
So I re-tubed it with 2" plumbing pipe from HD. My rear shaft is the same stuff, and works awesome!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0173.jpg)
Tripple pass weld, so it won't twist off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0174.jpg)
Up next is a Hi-Lift mount, and t-case shifters.
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8)
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Well, hell must have frozen over. I trimmed a hood! I still need to fill in the square hole on the right side, and do some stiffening. It's floppier than a warm pancake. All things considered, I think it came out great!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0179.jpg)
And I mounted my hi-lift! I used some spare hardware. 2x 9/16 bolts, 4x 9/16 nuts, and 2x 9/16 washers. I want to get one of those rubber/poly things that goes on the jack/handle to keep it from rattling.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0178.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0177.jpg)
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Well done Tim!
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You have a hood now! I like it a lot.
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just read through all 40 pages of this build, and that thing is built really well and looks amazing! I wish i had the knowledge (and funds) to build a rig as cool as this
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Thanks for the kind words, Bob!
Hope you can continue to make it out with us. You'll learn quickly, I'm sure. :)
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Thanks for the kind words, Bob!
Hope you can continue to make it out with us. You'll learn quickly, I'm sure. :)
I hope so also.
Did you guys stick weld the whole thing, or do you have a mig welder?
I'm assuming mig becuase it would suck to stick weld all that tubing
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The cage was all 220v MIG. Ian has the Miller 211, and I have a Hobart 187. Both great machines.
If I stick welded the whole thing, I think I'd still be welding. :D
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The cage was all 220v MIG. Ian has the Miller 211, and I have a Hobart 187. Both great machines.
If I stick welded the whole thing, I think I'd still be welding. :D
nice, im a fan of miller machines. they always seem so much smoother than really anything else ive had to use. and yeah you still be welding if it were stick, or atleast still chipping slag off the welds.
where did you get the hobart?
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I bought it from a welding shop in Hudson, NH.
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Nice. If you dont mind my asking a bajillion questions here, how did you figure out the geometry for the suspension and where to mount the arms for best travel/flex?
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Well, I followed a few rules like vertical separation of the arm ends, and triangulation, and put the links where they would fit. The rear was really easy, because I had a lot of space to work with. I built the suspension, then made the exhaust fit around the arms. The front was harder. I had already built my front crossmember which had the LCA and UCA mounts, and I re-used that. I lowered the Jeep ~5" this time around, so fitting the upper arm between the bellhousing, motor mounts, exhaust, and body was really tight. For that, I moved the axle up as far as possible, and tack welded the tabs on the front truss. You have to be careful when building a 3-link suspension with tight tolerances because the axle will move side to side during travel. When setting the panhard length, it can really make a difference between contact of the bellhousing/motor mount and .25" of clearance. Most people will tell you to build a buggy/Jeep at full bump. This way, you don't have to worry about clearance issues as much...because you can head it off earlier in the build process.
Hope that helps.
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Well, I followed a few rules like vertical separation of the arm ends, and triangulation, and put the links where they would fit. The rear was really easy, because I had a lot of space to work with. I built the suspension, then made the exhaust fit around the arms. The front was harder. I had already built my front crossmember which had the LCA and UCA mounts, and I re-used that. I lowered the Jeep ~5" this time around, so fitting the upper arm between the bellhousing, motor mounts, exhaust, and body was really tight. For that, I moved the axle up as far as possible, and tack welded the tabs on the front truss. You have to be careful when building a 3-link suspension with tight tolerances because the axle will move side to side during travel. When setting the panhard length, it can really make a difference between contact of the bellhousing/motor mount and .25" of clearance. Most people will tell you to build a buggy/Jeep at full bump. This way, you don't have to worry about clearance issues as much...because you can head it off earlier in the build process.
Hope that helps.
yeah thats helps a little i think. do you have a picture of the 3-link how you made it or did i miss it?
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Here's the front crossmember.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/1%20ton%20swap/IMG_3454.jpg)
And here it is in a rough mock-up back in 2009.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/1%20ton%20swap/IMG_3359.jpg)
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alright, that does look pretty sweet. was there not enough room in the front for a 4-link or is 3-link that much better?
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4 linking the front of an XJ/MJ is quite difficult. There's not a whole lot of room, and the motor is on the long side (plays into upper link clearance). I have seen some do it, but I'm not a huge fan of the geometry going on. A 3 link is very simple to put together, and performs well if it's set up correctly (again, not hard to do). I haven't really seen strong arguments for one or the other. Pick whichever you like, and go with it.
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Well one of my H2s suffered a pretty decent crack around the outer bead. It's about 4"-5" long, and compromises the ability of the tire to stay on the wheel. I thought about putting my spare on, but that still leaves me without beadlocks, and weak alloy wheels on the other 3 corners.
So I just spent the money on these. https://totalmetalinnovations.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=8&zenid=vcqi0iqkvc6hf85hrej00bilv5 Cost was $330 for 5 sets in the .250 flavor. I will be getting hardware from www.boltdepot.com.
Spoke with Tyler for probably 35 mins. He was able to help me out with shipping costs (which are pretty substantial), and we chatted about public vs. private property wheeling.
The beadlocks will be going on Cragar Soft 8 wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspacing.
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did the crack happen when the bead unseated on saturday @ the bbq?
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Actually, no. And the cracked wheel is NOT the one that I blew the bead on. That wheel is 100% fine.
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either way, those beadlocks look cool as hell, im jealous
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Beadlocks are pretty much done. Here are some pics I took of the process.
A big thanks goes out to Ian for helping me yesterday!!!
Why I bought the beadlocks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0185.jpg)
Back side of the H2. It was still holding air.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0195.jpg)
Hardware.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0186.jpg)
Spiffy angled valve stems.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0187.jpg)
Painted outer rings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0190.jpg)
Ground, and ready to weld.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0191.jpg)
Tack welded.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0192.jpg)
All welded, and 100% leak free.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0193.jpg)
Then I brought it over to my high tech paint booth. :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0194.jpg)
Mounted, torqued, and aired up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0196.jpg)
And a crappy shot of the inside where the anti coning tabs keep the outer ring flatter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0197.jpg)
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that looks saweeeet! nice welds too by the way, it almost looks like you (i'm assuming you welded it) know exactly what your doing ;D
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Thanks!! I did weld it. I'm not the best, but I can manage to glue two pieces of metal together. ;D
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Looks great, just a thought welding some rebar to the inside lip to reinforce it like I did to my h1's
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awesome Tim, you're gonna love the bead locks. I like the anti-coning tabs built into the inner ring.
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Rich- I will probably do that down the road. Not enough time/motivation to do it now. :D
John- I can't wait to wheel with them! The built in anti-coning tabs was why I went with this style. 8)
Here they are. all mounted, torqued, and ready to wheel. 8) 8) 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0199.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0200.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0201.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0203.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0204.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0205.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0206.jpg)
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Just needs rear steer now
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pure badassery right there!
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Rear steer will have to wait for a while. Have some other things to buy first. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks Bob. 8)
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tim that MJ is freakin awesome..i want one.
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Thanks Mike. Good seeing you at Jay's a few weeks ago. :)
I gave the MJ a test fit on the trailer today. I have to remove the fender to get the front on/off, but the rear still fits between them no problem. Yay for correct tongue weight!! :woot:
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it was nice to see you too..you scared the poop out of me.
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Well done on the wheels Tim, they look good!
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Tim, the wheels look great. I like the anti-coning tabs, what an easy solution.
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Thanks for the compliments. Can't wait to wheel this weekend, and see how the new wheels perform. 8)
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Good lord. There hasn't been an update to this thread since 2012!!
Tried to take it out for a romp around the field yesterday, but the snow wouldn't allow. 16" of snow thwarted the MJ. I had no traction. Whatever snow I compressed or dug out was replaced by more snow. It sucked, but maybe 15lbs is too much pressure for snow driving. :bitchslap:
So I took some pics at a plowed location instead.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0453_zpsnxaybutu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0454_zpsbwrrmcuk.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0455_zpsxvykwqes.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0456_zpstyuungyd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0457_zps2ramekal.jpg)
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thing looks cooler than I remember it.
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I heard it's for sale real cheap ;D
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make an offer ;D ;D ;D
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make an offer ;D ;D ;D
See I knew it was for sale
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:woot:
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Skin it ;D
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or atleast the rockers so you have a little more protection
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Needs more cow bell
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Now I can put a check beside the taint on my list of obstacles to conquer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_Qav6jgqic
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Woo-Hoo! :cheers:
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That looked awesome.
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Nice climb.
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Awesome!
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Well done timmy
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:clap:
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Awesome Tim.
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I should
Try that trail
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There's an MJ in that video?
;D
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that was so freakin awesome to ride along for, thanks dude! :woot:
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u looked alittle scared at one point there blacky
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NICEEEEEEE, that looked like fun
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u looked alittle scared at one point there blacky
one point!? try the entire day! haha
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After doing literally nothing for maintenance for give or take 2 years, I'm going to take care of a few things.
First on the list is a leaky power steering pump. It was leaking out the back and the leak was getting worse. I talked to Chris at the Q and he told me how to "rebuild" them. I decided to give it a whirl myself instead of sending it to Texas and paying for parts, labor and shipping.
We have a PSC TC pump with -12 feed and -6 out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0638_zpstjqppkde.jpg)
Seal kit. $12 from Amazon. I ordered the wrong part number because the shaft seal was the wrong one, but it wasn't leaking so I wasn't really worried about it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0637_zpsawt0iujd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0640_zpswoy9wsf5.jpg)
Schematic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0641_zpsst43ljim.jpg)
Put the pump in a vise to hold and use a c-clamp to push on the back cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0642_zpspouajw63.jpg)
This will allow you to put a small pick (or drill bit) in the drilled hole to push out the snap ring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0643_zpsvogjvosb.jpg)
Then I pushed the shaft in which drove the back cover and internals out. I did this slowly so pieces wouldn't go flying.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0644_zpsd6v5kdaq.jpg)
With the back cover removed you can see the cam, rotor, and vanes. This is what makes the pressure in these pumps.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0645_zps35yws8u1.jpg)
There's your problem!! A cut o-ring. What's up with the rust on the inside? I'd be blown away if it happened while being bathed in oil. Unless it rusted at PSC I don't know when it would have happened. ???
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0646_zpsbajnzdjp.jpg)
Internals apart.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0647_zpsvdbzqzi1.jpg)
Comparison between stock XJ pump (right) and PSC (left). The inlet isn't that much larger on the more expensive PSC pump.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0649_zpsxstygnbv.jpg)
The PSC pump had some wear on the cam, rotor, and vanes. After some deliberation and research I decided to conduct a test and assemble the pump using the cam, rotor and vanes from the STOCK XJ pump. I am 99.5% sure that they are dimensionally the same.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0650_zpsmvfnbxc8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0651_zpsiiaupj3d.jpg)
That's all I took for pictures. The pump went back together fairly easily and works pretty well. I did not notice a decrease in power or speed. I can turn lock to lock in about 3 seconds; a little slower when warm, but it has always done that. I want to take it for a test drive tomorrow.
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And in case any one is looking for further reading on power steering pumps (P style, TC style, CB style) and how they work, I HIGHLY recommend this thread.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/973826-what-s-going-inside-ps-pump.html
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Last night when I was reassembling everything, the clamping screws stripped out of the aluminum bracket. The supplied bolts are 1" long and had about .25" of thread engagement I swapped them out for some 1.5" long bolts which I trimmed down to 1.25".
Steering system is back together, is 100% functional and ready for a test drive.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0653_zpswzefexr5.jpg)
Up next for the steering is a filter change. The reservoir has an internal filter; NAPA part number 1418 or WIX 51418. They go for about $12
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good info....I don't think your feed line can be any shorter ;D
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Nice manicure
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Not much shorter. ;D
It's nice to know that you notice the little things John. Makes a person feel good about themselves. :finger:
Took the MJ for a 10-15 minute test drive. I climbed a few trees to test steering and did a test on dry pavement. Turned just as well as it did before, but this time there were no leaks. The tires were aired up to ~15psi, so I'm sure once I drop them to 3 it will be a little different.
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Nicely done on the restore Tim! :cheers:
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Thanks Chuck. It is nice to be able to refurbish things that work fine, but need 1 or 2 issues cleared up. Sometimes a new part is too much money, and the old one is perfectly fine except for a few inexpensive parts.
Watching you refurbish compressors and transmissions has given me a little motivation to rebuild instead of replace when I have the time and ability. :)
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That will be a post many of us will prob refer to some time down the line. Great job!
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Thanks. I hope it will be. It could save someone a lot of money and down time. Since the repair, the pump is still leak free.
I found that one of the Johnny Joints on the front lower control arm was loose, and causing a lot of noise which Blacky and I were noticing that last two times out. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on some new bushings for my Johnny Joints (8 bushings total ~$50) and I decided to check where the play was coming from 1 more time. I discovered that the bolt was loose and allowing movement. I tightened the bolt to the best of my abilities (pretty tight) and the movement went away. Hope that the hole isn't ovaled out, or I will have to repair them with some weld washers from Ruffstuff.
$50 saved.
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Thanks. I hope it will be. It could save someone a lot of money and down time. Since the repair, the pump is still leak free.
I found that one of the Johnny Joints on the front lower control arm was loose, and causing a lot of noise which Blacky and I were noticing that last two times out. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on some new bushings for my Johnny Joints (8 bushings total ~$50) and I decided to check where the play was coming from 1 more time. I discovered that the bolt was loose and allowing movement. I tightened the bolt to the best of my abilities (pretty tight) and the movement went away. Hope that the hole isn't ovaled out, or I will have to repair them with some weld washers from Ruffstuff.
$50 saved.
Awesome! I'm glad you found where that was coming from. What led you to thinking the Johnny Joints were the cause?
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I could feel something moving in the front end, and I know it wasn't the upper control arm. The lower arm was moving slightly when sawing the wheel so I started to feel the joints for play.
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Boring update alert!! ;D
New fuel filter. Smaller this time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0663_zpsaw95vhnl.jpg)
New steering filter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0664_zpsuz6y3klj.jpg)
And I'm strongly considering buying one of these.
http://www.4wd.com/Armor-Protection/Oil-Pan-Skid-Plate.aspx?t_c=79&t_s=467&t_pt=3545&t_pn=TER4667100
I'm 99% sure this is the same one that Maki has on his TJ, and I liked how it works. I dragged my oil pan on a rock at the BBQ and don't want to ruin a weekend by destroying the pan and oil pickup. I don't have the time, materials, or space to build my own and for the price I think that this is hard to beat.
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And some wheeling pics. Thanks to Jerry for sending them to me.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG95201407059515401995001_zpsadh24hbi.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMG95201407059514592595380_zpsp1jyslfn.jpg)
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my only worry about that oil pan skid. if you hit it hard enough, since its bolted to the trans and engine, you could do some damage to the cases. but I could be over thinking it. that design looks similar to the nth setup.
I have a couple videos of you attempting the large rock face at the bbq...if I ever get a chance to load them ill post them for ya
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I like that skid. I have one for my cj which goes from the front of the belly pan all the way forward to just behind the axle. I need to put it back on since I have had it off for a while.
My skid is kind of a pita for the number of times I see oilpans hit on taller rigs.
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my only worry about that oil pan skid. if you hit it hard enough, since its bolted to the trans and engine, you could do some damage to the cases. but I could be over thinking it. that design looks similar to the nth setup.
I have a couple videos of you attempting the large rock face at the bbq...if I ever get a chance to load them ill post them for ya
I completely agree. I would love a skid that is mounted to the body and takes all the load off of the drivetrain. However, given my suspension design, exhaust routing, axle placement, and general lack of space, I do not have a place to mount it forwards of the transmission. In all the time I've spent wheeling I've never crashed down on an oil pan. Only dragged it over rocks slowly dis-forming the pan. All I would want from this is to alleviate this issue. Along with the oil pan skid I will build a skid for the transmission oil pan that attaches to the skid plate, because I've dragged the trans pan across some rocks too.
I'd love to see my failure(s) if you have time to get them uploaded. ;D
I like that skid. I have one for my cj which goes from the front of the belly pan all the way forward to just behind the axle. I need to put it back on since I have had it off for a while.
My skid is kind of a pita for the number of times I see oilpans hit on taller rigs.
I've tried to be careful, but it's usually pure stupidity and not paying attention that leads to me scraping things on rocks. Ask Maki. He had to pull me off of a rock that I ended up on top of because I was not paying attention to where I was driving on the easy trails!! Also, keep in mind that depending on tire pressure the MJ's belly and oil pan is only 19"-20" off of the ground. Given the size rocks that I take it on, that clearance can at times be insufficient.
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Post a couple pictures of the underside of the mj. I'm curious what there is to build against.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0669_zpszjbjtmip.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0671_zpsnfxyjnu0.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0673_zpso5bhzibn.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/IMAG0674_zpsyrah3q71.jpg)
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Placed an order for the teraflex skid. Hope I can get it installed before rocktoberfest.
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you coming to summit?? ive got a bunch of questions that id rather pick your brain about in person.
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Sorry, no. Rocktoberfest is the same weekend as the Summit.
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Picked the skidplate up from Elais4x4 today. Hope to get it installed tomorrow or Friday. 8)
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You can bolt up skid plates to your rig still?
:woot:
Excited to see it this weekend.
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You can bolt up skid plates to your rig still?
:woot:
Excited to see it this weekend.
I have no idea what your are insinuating. My rig is totally and completely 100% bolt on mail order merchandise.
The skid is on and the oil is changed for the first time since Fall 2011 :nuts:. The plastic covering on the knock sensor fell apart and I had to piece it back together using RTV and a hose clamp. I should get a new one, but they aren't exactly common and are priced around $55. I'm hoping that I might find a used one around somewhere. Wishing I still had that red XJ I scrapped a few years ago. ::)
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Ok, snapped a quick pic. Please excuse the quality. I was ducking under a tarp in the monsoon like rain that had just started. The skid cleared the exhaust just fine. All the holes lined up great too.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/IMAG0697_zpsnphuslvk.jpg)
And my connection at Advance Auto ordered a knock sensor for me. It will be in tomorrow afternoon.
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that's the tera flex one...right?
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Yes.
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fantastic that you finally got your oil pan covered. :woot:
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Update time!! After the 4th at field and forest, I discovered that I lost a c clip for a u joint cap. The u joint was fine, but it had been gone long enough to make the press fit caps into slip fit caps. I pulled the shaft to put it back together and put tack welds on the axle. Turns out the splines have a couple degrees of twist...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/2814_zpsnxmrmpc5.jpg)
The solution was delivered by ups today. I will get pics up tomorrow.
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And some pictures I took from the last 2 wheeling trips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0704150956_zpsjhadzegt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0704151014_zpsvpenh0yw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0705151057_zpsxd8drm7y.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0705151058_zpsvidfhx84.jpg)
I love this pic!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0711151703_zps6bqmjfzq.jpg)
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These shafts are pretty....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0801151820a_zpsmi9bd40b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0801151820_zps6gznqlu6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0801151821c_zps1asu29jd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0801151821_zpswkita69o.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0801151821a_zpsycbyhwjw.jpg)
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Very nice Tim !
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Chromoly?
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Chromoly?
Um, yeah!
Dutchman Dana 44 & 60 inner & outer front axle shafts are now available 2 ways. Your choice of Import or Domestic thru hardened "chrome-moly" (4340) material.
Import means the blank forgings came from off shore, resulting in an economical choice if the ultimate in strength is not needed. Domestic means the blank forgings came from Foote Axle-right here in the USA.
As with all our alloy axle shafts, all the finish machining is done in house here at Dutchman. Our front alloy inner axles are custom made to order, regardless if your application is stock replacement or a custom length if you�re narrowing the housing.
Whatever form of offroading you�re involved in; Desert racing, mud bogging, rock crawling, or just simple trail riding, a Dutchman 4340 front shaft will get you home or help win the race.
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very cool!
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Also, for those who are not aware of what's involved when swapping shafts in a d60, this is what the bed of my truck looked like during the process. The diff cover is off to change the oil.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0802151812_zps71ujje2m.jpg)
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Damn! knuckles too on them? I'm glad my knuckles stay on, everything else comes out though.
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those are some big snap ring pliers son!
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I'm not looking forward to that.
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I'd be interested to see how much twist the old shafts had in them
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Damn! knuckles too on them? I'm glad my knuckles stay on, everything else comes out though.
The ears on the alloy shafts do not fit through the spindle hole. ::)
I'd be interested to see how much twist the old shafts had in them
Looking at them again, I am unsure if there was any. Like I said, a couple degrees at most. BOTH shafts had slip-fit caps though, so those were not far from going bye bye.
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I'm not surprised, they add as much material as they can for strength. My d30 shafts are press fit inside the spindle hole, and you have to remove the grease fittings before you can install or remove the shaft. When my ears spread some i spent an hour hammering at it to get the thing to come out, i'm not sure if you can even get the knuckle off a CJ30 with the shaft inside it.
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I have a minor clearance issue. I'm going to fix this problem tomorrow. Luckily I have not made it far into the reassembly process.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0803152020_zpspzllg9by.jpg)
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I have a minor clearance issue. I'm going to fix this problem tomorrow. Luckily I have not made it far into the reassembly process.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0803152020_zpspzllg9by.jpg)
is it the long side?
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I had to grind both sides. Not a lot, it only took about a minute once I had the shaft out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0804151747_zpsa3v5btbw.jpg)
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I'm glad you decided to grind it, don't forget to check the spindle bearing while it's off
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I'm glad you decided to grind it, don't forget to check the spindle bearing while it's off
Me too. Thank you for your input!
Good call. I don't have the hubs on yet, so tomorrow I will pop the spindles off and throw some grease on those bearings.
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A few wheeling pics from last weekend.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0829151319_zpsv8i5urx7.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0829151317_zpsgob9ramu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0829151412_zpsrzgpooto.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/4201_zpsya8epoo2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0829151412a_zpsfh97splt.jpg)
And I started to add lights.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0901151934_zpsojkiqp14.jpg)
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Looks like I missed a fun time !
The lights look good !
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0905151933_zpsnbmcpqdc.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0905151932_zpsyihpnexp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/HazzzMatMan/Stage%205/0905151909_zpszp9vei6v.jpg)
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now its all ready for an inspection sticker!
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Where did you go froading
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Field and forest had an open weekend last week, and I went with Ian.
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I've had a good weekend progress wise, so far.
The front lights are wired and ready to go. The rear light is wired on a separate switch so I can control it independently of the fronts. The tail/brake lights are wired, but I only have 1 mounting bracket so I will need to get another to mount the other light. The Firestik antenna has been mounted to a spring and connected to a working CB via a 3' coax cable (still need to tune SWR). I also made a cradle on top of the fuel cell to hold the recovery bag that I won at the 'Q (Thanks Jeff @ Crown!).