TJ Long Arm Build

[Casey L]

All my old images are gone. I have not updated this thread much, but I got some time to work on the jeep again...

I will leave this picture of parts for now.

[SPYDER]

isn't it finished???

[Casey L]

I did some work over the weekend. When I started my long arm I originally wanted to use the balistic combo bracket on the front axle, and run a trackbar with two control arm size johnny joints 2.625 width, 9/16" bolt, and 1.25" thread. However I never had enough time to finish everything so I left things stock.

I ran the axle stock for about 10,000 miles. By that time I hammered on the stock axle and axleshafts by running very out of balance 37" tires. The track-bar bolt hole became very ovaled out and I became good at replacing the axle shafts

So here is the almost finished axle. I decided that running a 2.6" width JJ on the axle side would be difficult to package, and it was much easier just to buy brackets. Clayton came out with a bunch of brackets for the WJ swap, and they seem to work really nicely with running OTK setups. I also took the time to eliminate the passenger side UCL, add a truss and some additional gussets.





I am still a little nervous about welding to center section. Would anyone recommend removing the carrier first?. Artec recommends heating the center section to 400 degreese, then hammering the welds after. They also recommend wrapping the differential in a welding blanket so that it takes many hours to cool.

[Bluerocket]

Personally I would take the carrier out. 

[Twisty]

Use Ni55 rod!!  MIG won't work without significant pre and post heat.

You should pre and post heat all cast iron welds, but Ian and I have welded cast iron with no pre/post heat (D60 and 14b) with great success.  Clean it well, weld 1-2" at a time, stop and peen.  Don't let the metal get very hot (ie: take your time, and move around as much as possible), and listen to the welds for the "ping" sound.  The "ping" is the weld cracking.  You should be able to get the pumpkin welded quite easily.

[Ian]

Personally I would take the carrier out. 

yes.

what tim said.

[jwebb1998]

isn't it finished???

It appears not!

[Axle]

very cool stuff!

[Casey L]

Over the summer I converted my Crown Warn rear bumper to a tire carrier. I really like the look of the traditional warn bumper, but I wanted something that was very strong. I welded some ruffstuff brackets and a trailer bearing swing out kit.


The bumper was designed in solidworks, and I have all shop floor prints for the design. I had a lot of fun building this.


I reinforced the mounts using these gussets that I made.


I wanted a very strong swing out tire carrier, but I didn't want a clunky and expensive destaco over center latch. I came up with this. I love using cheap rod ends from McMaster, these are 3/4" ends, they cost about $11 a piece. I know there are a couple other swing out tire carriers like this, but I don't think that any of them triangulate the load the way this one does. Now I do not have any vibration from the 35 inch tire.



The tire carrier also has a hi-lift mount, as well as some extra threaded bungs for expansion / jerry cans, etc.

[Ian]

looks good. i guess the true test will be when you come down hard on the bumper and the tire stays put.

[SPYDER]

Or when you come down hard on the tire and it doesn't stay behind.....


Looks good and strong....nice job

[jeepgod]

So when you smack that tire on the rock it not only bends the pivot your tailgate gets ruined as well . . .. .  Seems like a great paln to me.

It's pretty though