Project 6

[Posimoto]

I packed the 22 roller bearings in the clutch shaft then put it through the front bearing bore from inside the case. Then I dropped the rear end of the mainshaft assembly through the bearing bore at the rear of the case (won’t drop straight in). I installed the snap rings on both bearing and used a pipe and soft plow hammer to install the bearings. Make sure you tap on the inner part of the bearing and not the outer.

To keep the 22 roller bearings in place I used a piece of wood at the end of the shaft and tapped on the bearings.



Complete

[jps4jeep]

Right on!

[Posimoto]

The plus side of doing the T-18/D-300 adapter is that I now have an extra mainshaft, drive gear, D-20 factory adapter, spacer, and D-20. I now have everything to mate a ford T-18 to a D-20 without spending $500 on the aftermarket adapter. All I would need to do is drill a few hole in the ford case and plug the bottom 2 factory holes.  

[Posimoto]

I installed a Spartan locker in the rear. It is the same brand I installed in my front 44 Project 5 so I won’t bore you with the details. 

For those who haven’t viewed the install it can be found here.
https://newenglandjeepz.org/forum/builds/project-5/75/

[mika401]

Is that a D60 carrier?
Did I miss something & youre running a D60 in the 5?

[rich]

Its in the other cj5 project

[Posimoto]

Yes, I'm running Dodge 60s in the 79 blue CJ5 (Project 5 x2) and 44s in the 77 CJ5 (Project 5)

[mika401]

Ah gotcha

[jps4jeep]

new cross pin, smart.

[Posimoto]

I can't take credit for ordering a new pin as it came with the locker, unlike others in its class, pin and locker = $260.

[Posimoto]

Removed the D-300 from the rig, plan to rebuild and install the 4.1 gears should be finished sometime this week.

One rear 60 spindle bored and welded back on, one to go.

[Posimoto]

In the past whenever I bought a jeep and changed the tranny/t-case fluid it has always been either black, brown, or a gush of water followed by chocolate milkshake. To say the least I was very surprised when I dumped the fluid and it was the color of honey I guess there’s a first time for everything.

First, the D-300 4.1 kit directions are lacking compared to the D-20 3.15. The 20 kit gives you step by step instructions to disassemble the case the 4.1 kit doesn't.

Some of the tools you will need are:
3/16" allen socket
1 1/8” socket
Gear puller
Press (nice to have but not needed)
Dial indicator
External snap ring pliers
File or grinder

I did an initial degreasing and prepped for tear down.

 

The gears and case look good.



Empty case.



All the bearings and needle bearings look good so I plan to reuse them.  

[Posimoto]

Although the case and gears are in good shape it was my impression this D-300 hadn’t been rebuilt. When I pressed out the input shaft there were no shims between the bearing and shaft shoulder. Seems whoever rebuilt it failed to reinstall them. These particular shims have not so much to do with end play as it has to do with spacing between the rear output gear and snap ring.

Anyways, below is the input shaft, shaft support, bearing, with old and new rear output gears.

[Posimoto]

Before painting I had to notch the side of the case to gain access for the larger aftermarket intermediate gear. I placed the bottom cover gasket in place as a guide so I wouldn’t notch into the sealing surface.   

[Posimoto]

This t-case build will be shelved until the shim arrive (about 2 weeks).