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Author Topic: T98 clutch  (Read 165 times)
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brooksy
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« on: October 18, 2012, 06:17:41 AM »

I was driving the M715 a couple weeks ago and when I shifted out of second and tried to get into third all I got was grinding. Turns out I couldn't get into any gear while moving, the clutch was stuck. I had to stop, put it in first and start the truck to get it off the road.

I spent the some time taking it apart over the last week since the shift fork and clutch were moving and thought it may be the clutch and it turns out I was right.






My problem is that there have been a lot of modifications and the transmission mounts are massive and welded to the frame. I was unable to back the transmission out of the engine with out having to detach it from the bellhousing because I couldn't lower it enough to clear the body. Will I have any issues putting it back together if I have to bolt the bellhousing to the engine first and then line up the transmission? I am wonding if lining up the shift fork and throw out bearing will be difficult.




DIAMOND PLATE TRANSMISSION MOUNT!!!!!!
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jps4jeep
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« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2012, 08:24:06 AM »

I know nothing about t98 trans. I would assume that as long as you align everything, they should go together. My question is can you bolt the bell housing up first and still access all the trans to bell mating bolts?
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Axle
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« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2012, 08:42:56 AM »

anything can be done, it could be hard though. use an alignment tool? are you going to re surface the flywheel?

is it in your garage?! yay
« Last Edit: October 18, 2012, 08:43:32 AM by Axle » Logged

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Posimoto
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« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2012, 09:16:01 AM »

I would recommend re-surfacing the flywheel and purchase a new pilot bushing ($2).

Did you remove the tranny/b-housing, found you couldn’t back it out then removed the b-housing?

Looks like you have room to mount the b-housing then tranny

With the b-housing mounted it shouldn’t be any problem installing the tranny’s input shaft through the TB. However, aligning the input shaft and pilot bushing can take a few tries. I use an angle finder to help align the shaft with the pilot bushing. 

Another option would be to cut the diamond plate mounts and install your own crossmember/tranny mount.

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« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2012, 09:43:08 AM »

transmission mounts are massive and welded to the frame.
Do you have rubber mounts on the tranny side?

If you don’t that may have contributed to your clutch issue, there should be some flex at the tranny mounting point.

 
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79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch
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« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2012, 10:10:22 AM »

there shouldn't be any problems doing it that way...its the way most mustang and chevy guys do it, since most of those trans have removable bellhousings.  i know when i drop the trans in my cobra this winter to figure out whats going on with my clutch, i plan on not taking the bellhousing off unless im actually replacing the clutch
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« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2012, 05:39:32 PM »

It barely fits in my garage!!! I have access to the 4 bolts to mate the tranny to the bell housing when it is bolted to the engine.  I was wondering if I should get the flywheel resurfaced and I will do that now. I tried to remove the transmission and bell housing bolted together but realized I didn't have enough room to back it out with out hitting the tub. I also couldn't lower it because the mounts don't drop down. There are rubber bushings on the mounts.  I will make sure I have an angle finder on hand when I reinstall.

I will need to try and find a throw out bearing since this isn't stock. I thought for a moment I might have a T18 because the PTO is on the passenger side and stock M715's have it on the drivers side for the winch but it looks like it may actually be a T98. I will pull the top cover and count the teeth to see.

I found some cracks on the bell housing...
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« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2012, 08:46:11 PM »

Yup, that's the only true way to tell, the first/reverse will be a 43 tooth gear.

Most welding shops that repair aluminum should be able to handle your b-housing cracks. I would ask to see some of their work before handing it over, 5356 rod would be a choice.

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"That's the trouble with research on the internet, there's no way of verifying its truth" --Abraham Lincoln

79 CJ5 304/T-150 Silver Anniversary
79 CJ5.5 360/T-18/4.1 D-300
77 CJ5 360/T-18/3.15 D-20
46 CJ2A L-134/T-90 OD/D-18
50 Willys P/U F-134/T-90/D-18 Koenig winch


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